KnobbyMech

Thanks for your interest Thor. Throwing in lactic tolerance training sessions now. Used to go out on 45-60min TT type rides twice a week in the past, but were advised against it. This now replaced by the lactic tolerance. Not getting quite as much base as I would like. Little bit of gym and core sessions in the mix now as well.

Don't want to upset you and get you smoking again, but Bruce's records have been broken (yes, up and down run). Thinking about the core training now. This is also something I started about the time my performance started coming down

Hey Thor, "how to train better" is actually my original question on the thread. Care to give some advice or are you still chuckling?

Reading the reply from @USN on the "Difference between USN Epic Pro and 32Gi" thread, i think I may have found another missing piece of the puzzle. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/84719-difference-between-32gi-and-usn-epic-pro/

Hear hear. Also not a fan of Cape Storm. Anatomic 100miler any good?

When replacing the wheel, always do it with the bike right side up, weight on the wheel while fastening the skewer. DO NOT pull the brake to assist with disc allignment, your wheel will not be seated properly on the shock attachment slots. Then you can re-adjust the caliper by loosening it, pulling on the brake to assist allignment and fastening it again. Hope it helps. I know i'ts irritating if you hear the risc rub, but generally there is very little friction when the rotor touches and "sings" (shwing....Shwing...) This is obviously better that a rotor that rubs hard and you do not know about it.

Had both. Performance, life and adjustability similar. XTR easier to maintain in my opinion, replacement pad easier to find. Hated the taper washers on the Juicy callipers. Sure it allowes for larger range of adjustment, but the rotor should be flat, right? Would love to try the Formula R1 or Hope Mono...

Thanks for that article @Mileage. It makes sense (the parts I can understand)

True, stage race partner convinced me to go onto "one size fits all" programme, but can it be that detremental to performance?

I am getting despondent and need your advice. I never had a training program nor trained in specific hr zones, just enjoyed my cycling outings. Now, the last 3 months I started training harder according to a specific program, but have since gone from pulling the pack to holding on for dear life. Results in Nissan mtb series reflects my backwards progression. Although I train hard, I do not over do it and I take plenty of rest days. Have you had such an experience? Any advice? PS: I also went from feeling great after each ride to just be happy to be done with it.

Rattlesnake, you just gave yourself a snakebite! Two weeks ago I was boasting about my invincible UST tyres and long time without a puncture. Got one 2 min later and 2 more punctures since them too large to seal.

I like curry.

I used both and currently run the XT. In my opinion nothing between them except looks and price. Even the weight is actually almost the same. Do not agree that the SRAM is softer, been getting similar life from both.

Thanks crack. Plan to ride there early Saturaday morning and perhaps Sunday verrrry early as well. Giba does look nice as well. Think it will be crowded considering us Vaaljapies decending there for the school holidays and long weekend??

Taking her Durbs way for the long weekend. Heard good things about Hola trails, so will check it out. Anyone that can recommmend a route/s (about 3 hours)?

Manbearpig can lose another 10kg by shaving the hair on his back (yes, those ones that is standing up now)

Mtb'er 1.82m, 80kg, 10.1% olive oil

Ja, really not that hard to do. Get the hydraulic oil required from a motorcycle shop. 1Litre will last around 6 services pending model. I serviced mine a couple of times without replacing any part except the oil. Even the crush washer can (but shouldn't) be re-used. Just clean the wipers thoroughly and make sure the foam bushings are well cleaned of any metal and dirt residue. You may have to buy a 26?mm socket and use this verrrrryyyy carefully. It is actually fun. Enjoy!

Respect for you roadies. I just dont have the guts to take on the traffic. Rocks and trees don't move and I'm the only lunatic on the road. Be safe.

A bib that fits like a glove...now that is a picture...hope it's one with only one finger!!

Thanks guys for reminding me how lucky I am! Gonna give my wife a big hug toninght. She buys more mtb stuff for me than I do, pushes me out of bed in the mornings if I am lazy because she knows I'll be grumpy if I don't. Our planned weekends away are mostly around our races and she loves rocks and flowing singletrack as much as I do.....humbled

Thanks to Giant, we have affordable bikes that stands up to the quality and performance of the niche, pay-for-the-name, pay-for-the-painting brands. Sure, Giant is'nt always a painting but then again I don't rate my paintings on their handling performace. Had planty mtbs before, but now there is only one girl for me and she is big, really big...in fact she is a Giant! PS: Chickenrun4me, i'm pretty sure my Anthem is not one you passed lately (lekka windgat, sorry) The next big thing: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/anthem.x.29er.1/7508/44088/

Firstly, we are talking two different things here: a) comparing a road bike with a mountain bike on the same tar road, and B) comparing a mtb race distance with a road race distance. For a) a maintain a 5% difference and for b0 I agree that it can be as much as 2:1. It obviously depends on the terrain, it is like asking how many foreigners are living in SA. Secondly, to answer Kingcompass: Think of it this way; if the patch of tyre on the ground is moving at 50km/hr relavant to the ground you would leave one hell of a skidmark! The top part is moving twice as fast as the hub relevant to the ground. If it was travelling the same speed relevant to the ground, it would not be turning. The outer part of the tyre will always move at 50km/hr relevant to the hub if you are riding at 50km/hr, but not relevant to the road. Make sence now?

Interesting topic. No scientific reports on offer here, but I believe the difference is not that great. At higher speeds, the difference increases due to the exponential effect of wind resistance, particularly on the knobs of the tyres. Remember that when you travel at say 50km/hr, the uppermost portion of your tyre is moving at 100km/hr (relevant to the ground or 50km/hr relevant to you). The resistance of knobbies due to the "friction" on the road is thus far less that the wind resistance it creates. My fastest tt time on a 20km round route is only 2min faster on the road bike. (roughly 5%)

Thanks Johan! This is a keeper.