KnobbyMech

That Spez is damn pretty. Here is my ride and I love it! Went back to the wide bar without bar-ends though.

As much I am converted to 29", I am also getting irritated with all the 29er commentator comments on the Epic. Please stop, I might find it hard to find stock of my next 29er or spares. Don't spread the word any further, let us converted ones have the advantages all to ourselves!

No answers. Does this mean it is a good question?

After the recent brake failure incident regarding Kevin Evans I was wondering how and if the UCI protects mountainbikers. I know for road racing there is a weight limit on the bikes and this is not to stop innovation, it is to protect the riders. Also tri-bars are banned for road races, etc. But, apart from helmet specs and our local CSA prohibiting I-pods, what measures are there to protect mountain bikers? Are there any organization that looks at things like manufacturer' frame quality, brake quality and reliability, handlebar strength, rims, spokes, etc? With other words, is the safety of us as mountainbikers only up to ourselves?

No matter who or what is at fault, after Kevin's post with positive and thankfull remarks, I look up to the man even more. Get well soon Kevin!

And the wooden spoon award goes to.....

Probably the most accurate response. Two of the "good" shops mentioned in this tread is on my black list. Once asked the shop owner of one of these shops if he keeps Specialized saddles. He told me Specialized do not make saddles, they just put their names on it! WTF!!! Then most bike makers don't make bikes right? I love my XYZ saddle with the Specialized badge man.

Not true! Also, you get XC and All Mountain type. Small weight diff.

Dit was die wag werd! Word al hoe mooier hoe meer ek hom sien.

The Barro Mountain and Saguaro are big volume tyres. Ie a 2.2 is similar to a Conti MT King 2.4 and a 2.00 is similar to most 2.2 UST brands. I run 2.1 Barro up front and 2.0 Saguaro rear on my 26". Perfect for me. Running Saguaro on my 29er (no 29" Barro available yet) Whatever you decide, these are all good tyres.

People, people, have none of you ever tried the Geax Barro Mountain? Perfect for the front for mud or rocks or loose, then run the Saguaro (2.1) at the rear.

While we're on the topic...I've heard that smaller riders won't reap the benefits of the bigger wheels, is that true? Im just about 1,69m and ride a small hardtail. Ask Burry Stander. He is around that length and weighs around 62kg. Won the XC SA title on a 29er (dual suzz also nogal).

Welcome to the hub. Hope you find answers soon, cannot imagine myself not being able to ride my bike.

Never, ever, never pull the hydraulic brakes with the bike upside down

...unless it is a shifter with "X9" printed on it!

Been there plenty! No matter how much it fisses me off, I manage that one every time. Keeps me on the ground I guess.

+1 for the Epic Pro. Also take a tub (or 2) of USN recover max for after the race.

...and you say you are amazed? Same height for me, but I am skinny at 81kg.

$2.00 from the selling price of $220????? Better than nothing and a good initiative, but it seams a bit "cheap" to me.

Can't go wrong with either. Similar parts and maintenance. Sid slightly lighter and more pricy, that's about it. Happy trails

I have measured and tracked my fitness using a simple formula: ave actual heartrate x min (1hr 13min and 12 sec = 73.2) / km. This gives you the number of heartbeats it takes you to do 1km. No slip riding and a route which ends where it starts is required. Windier conditions, routes with more climbing and longer rides will also push the ratio up. My best result so far is 269 beats/km on my mtb and 261 beats/km on my rd bike on the same route and 650 beats/km running. What is yours?

Keep: The great number of marshalls everywhere where they could possibly be needed. The unexpected water point on top of the big climb. Your pink organiser shirts. The cold ones at the finish. The route. It is just right. All the friendly faces that makes everyone comfortable and relaxed. You attention to detail. Spot on! Add: A hosepipe / shower to get rid of the worst dirt before heading home. Some markers en-route to the venue. Hope you get that elusive sponsor soon, you deserve one.

Never bend the eyelets as the gap sise is designed to give enough resistance to pull the plug up to the tyre, but not too much to pull the plug through. Also the reason why you have to twist the plug a couple of times.

1. Pre-pepare the tool before the ride/race: Insert 2 small "snot stokkies" (tubeless plugs) into the plug tool by feeding it from one side through the eye. The eye should be in the centre of the plugs. Then re-stick the preservation plastic and backing over the plugs to keep it from drying out. It can now be used straight away when you get a puncture. 2. When you detect a puncture that does not seal up, hold your finger on the hole to prevent further deflation (very hard to insert the plugs into a flat tyre) while getting the tool from your bag of tricks (this is where a buddy comes in more usefull than fresh batteries for your PVR remote). 3. Remove the covers from the plugs and insert the tool through the hole taking care to leave about 5mm of plug outside the tyre. Now twist the tool a number of times taking care that the plugs do not pull into the tyre further. Now simply pull out the tool and inflate the tyre to required pressure. 4. Note that although plugs may hold for the entire life of the tyre, it is only a temporary measure and almost certainly will always have a bit of a leak. For a permanent fix, get tubeless patches (for some reason, these do not take to Specialized tyres in my experience).

O no! That is sad. Get well Allistair! (Think Allistair now owns the shop once owned by Derek)