Tomik

Thanks for the replies so far. Funnily, me broker's assistant just got back to me (after a week) saying that the average clause does not apply to all risks insurance (it was above the all-risk section, below the building section. So she said that if stolen, I would get the inured amount less excess. She also said damaged items (in a crash) would be replaced - i.e. full replacement cost paid out (less excess). She said this section below is to manage expectations but if I understood that I would get paid out less than new replacement value, that's OK. So I guess the question now is, if anyone has been insured for second hand value, is that what was paid out?

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me. My insurer, Santam, just renewed my policy but noted the "average clause", in particular stating that the sum insured must represent full replacement value of the assets in accordance with the basis of valuation applicable. Now, here's the rub. I bought my BMC used (1 year old) for R124000 but the replacement value for a new one is R200000. I specifically told my broker that I bought the bicycle used for R124000 (and provided an invoice) and insured it for that amount. In the event of a total loss (i.e. theft), I expect to be paid out R124000 less the excess, as I will purchase another used bicycle for the same amount. But the average clause implies that I am under-insured. What is the general experience here? Do you insure for the price paid, or the new replacement value? Has anyone been paid out less than the insured amount due to this "average clause"? Thanks in advance.

If you want to ride the route, just do a 7 day Fulgaz trial. I've ridden my local Waterfront to Chappies route a few times and it is actually quite fun as you know the hills/landmarks so it feels familiar and can be good training. Lots of excellent routes on Fulgaz/Rouvy if you don't need the 'company' of other riders.

On the roof mounted racks, a mate has destroyed 2 s-works frames by driving into his garage... That's why I've got the tow bar!

The saris or Thule should fit under the lip no problem. Shouldn't damage the paint, but I would put duct tape on in case. Take the car to a Thule fitment shop to check. It's free. Tow bar obviously superior, but if it didn't work on your car, the rear mounted racks are fine.

You shouldn't twist your ankle when unclipping with any shoes. It should be a natural movement. Check the angle of your cleats (affects how twisted your foot needs to be to release) as well as the release tension on the pedal. My Look MTB pedals were initially a pain to unclip from compared to my cheap Shimano ones, but after sorting the above, all is well. Also, spray silicone spray on the cleat and pedal interface - sometimes the metal/metal friction causes them to stick a bit.

Yes, was good weather this weekend for the 2-day 338km mostly-gravel loop of the Overberg. Will go back to 40s if mud is expected. The point is, gravel bikes for local conditions need at least 42's (in my opinion).

Sure looks good, but I would want clearance for at least 42c to make it truly all-road. I find the volume on most 700x40c just isn't plush enough on my SC Stigmata (on which I managed to fit a 42c on the rear with about 1mm clearance!) R90k is a good price for AXS build but similar to the Lauf Pure Grit which may be better suited to some of our gravel roads in SA, albeit marginally heavier.

Easier (and better) if you donate it. DM me if you're in CT area - I can point you in the right direction.

I would go shorter and hit it hard. It's not lekker hitting the wall with an hour or more of riding left. Build up to the 45.

No. Amazon and eBay global shipper will stay with courier but not the German bike shops, unless you pay the big bucks. Shipping costs have gone up. Only way for the bike shops to offer reasonably cheap shipping is to use local postal systems.

DHL/SAPO not that bad in my experience. Most recent purchase from bike 24 took exactly a month to my door (paid Vat etc in cash). Delivery cost was 20 euros. Continental tyres were half the price of local, plus saddle plus helmet = big saving.

I don't think so - different pull ratios - but double check on google. I have a SRAM GX shifter 11sp available. DM me if interested.

If it's your shin area, it has nothing to do with ITB. Those stretches won't hurt, but they won't help that specific issue. Likely culprit is cleats too far forward making your shin muscle overwork to stabilise your foot. Collapsing arch could exacerbate the issue. Move your cleats back on the shoe, get a supportive insole (the Spez ones are OK) and make sure you're not pedaling with more pressure on the outside of your foot (suggesting too high a saddle). Good luck.

Or a decent scooter! Lol

Donation made from FNB - will take a few days to clear. Good work, all.

Check out Onza Ibex 2.4 up front, Onza Canis 2.25 in the rear. I think evobikes stocks them. Very robust and not too heavy.

I bought the Momsen Comfort Seatpost for my Stigmata and it's really great. It's carbon and ovalised near the top so quite flexy. Not noticeable on the road, but definitely more compliant on the rough stuff. Was only R950 from TWT.

What rim/tyre combo you running? With proper tubeless road setup, the tyre should not unseat when deflated. Perhaps there's gunk in the rim hook, stopping it from seating properly? Are you hearing the "bangs" from the seating? Pumped to at least 100psi? Or the hook on the rim itself is damaged? I've had tubeless for years and have not had this problem. My Schwalbe Pro Ones always seat with a garage pump and sometimes with a floor pump (if beads aligned perfectly with the stars that night)... I would try just pumping it with garage pump, with the valve core in. That should seat it and keep the pressure in.

You can always try a tool bottle. I've ridden road tubeless for many years now and only had to put a tube in twice (both sidewall cuts from large screw/stone). Rest of the time, I get home with enough air left in the tyre (Stans holds 40psi or so depending on the size of the hole). In my experience, roadside repairs are a waste of time (plugs don't work on the road and you can't patch the inside without proper preparation). So I carry a tube, tiny pump and my cellphone to call uber just in case. Pockets are not full at all.

FWIW, I have not had good experiences with tubeless Hutchinson Fusion 3 or 5, but I guess that was the older non-TLR casing. They were a harsh ride and inflated to well below the indicated size (23.5mm for a supposed 25mm tyre). Had the 3 and 5 performance version. Wasn't too impressed by the puncture resistance either.

I should've mentioned that I rode SCT yesterday and it held just fine at 80psi. Some of the 'plugs' I've seen building up on the inside are quite large (depending on the sealant, I guess) so wouldn't think they'd blow out. Perhaps I got lucky 'cause the holes were reasonably small.

Just found a solution of sorts to the issue of non-sealing tubeless tyres. (Since we don't get Orange Seal in SA) So, the past three rides I had three small holes from glass cuts (thanks to the festive season in CT). In all cases, I got home without knowing about it but pressure was way down suggesting that the hole wasn't sealing properly. In the first case, I had a whole lot of sealant (Stan's) on the floor after leaving the bike parked overnight with the hole (unknown to me) right at the bottom of the wheel. When pumping the tyre to 80psi (25mm tyres), it would not seal. My solution was to put folded paper towel under the hole (with bike upright) and leave for an hour or so (at an initial 80psi or so). This seems to give the sealant a chance to solidify and seal the hole. Some will leak out but it should eventually seal. Hope it works for you. p.s. I was about to give up on road tubeless but this little trick has restored my faith and I just bought two new Schwalbe Pro Ones (the best tubeless tyres around).

Yeah, weight not really an issue. 300g is pretty standard for tubeless tyre. Same as Schwalbe Pro One's which are great tyres, albeit not very durable. The ride at lower pressure is lovely. My bike floats over that horrible surface on Chappies at 80psi.

No need to be scared. Punctures are rare but when they happen, the air is expelled a lot slower than a tubed tyre, even with a large-ish hole. So very easy to stop safely. In most cases, the tyre seals and you only realise you had a "flat" when you see sealant on the seat tube. The sealant is the key. So far (I've been riding tubeless road for 3 years) I haven't found a decent sealant locally. The normal Stan's and the new Squirt sealant are pretty useless at pressure. The squirt sealant didn't even seal a tiny (tip of toothpick-sized) hole in my rear tyre. All the sealant leaked out in my garage (but it got me home without me even knowing there was a hole).