Bobbo_SA

CRC for a BB that goes for R120 at the LBS? - Rather go past your LBS and pick up a BB, the 115 should be no problem, unless the cranks were extremely close to the chainstays.

+1 - will be trying this next, my Conti combo (MK + XK UST) probably have another month left in them and although they have been great I feel the need to try something different.

Mad skillzzzz http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Sv3xVOs7_No

One of my favorites currently

Picked up mine from Mica Eastgate yesterday, charged me R799 which I think is still not bad, its well built and with some care (don't over-tighten to clamps etc) it will last a couple of years, probably not 20 years but for the price it aint bad at all.

Top heavy much??

+1 Most of us would probably not notice 10 Banana Peels lying in a bush but I for one would notice empty 10 GU packs. What will do more damage, an animal ingesting a banana peel (unlikely as they will smell it and move on) or a GU sachet (much more likely as the residual smell and taste will stay on the packet for days) Interesting 4th Grade experiment regarding Banana vs apple: http://4thgradesciencefair.wikispaces.com/Osayamen+Atekha

My 2c - if your gearing is working fine this way then replace the ring(s). Maybe re-spray the crank so it appears new and pretty while its off that way your head is happy and so is your wallet -

Effing trolls... :-) Sorry, although i know at least in my case i would not be able to tell if it was the same or a different link.

Or are you reusing the pin you pushed out? SRAM and Shimano chains lately dont like reusing pins, thats why SRAM chains come with a powerlink and shimano come with a new pin that you break off once it's in. I had the same with a chain where i reused the pins, since not doing it anymore i have yet to break a chain.

?????????

If I go back a few versions it appears more accurate, but I think you are right, in order to save battery its running at a lower rate, also noticed some times it picks up a segment and the next time it does not, probably due to the same reasons.

@MM44, agreed, between the various IOS devices we use its consistent, however it would be nice to see a comparison to say a Byrton or Edge device. On Wednesday I rode with both my iPhone and old Garmin Etrex, the image below tells an interesting story, on the left is the Garmin with the track very close to where we rode, on the right is the iPhone's track which shows that I'm 4-5 meters from where I actually am riding. Will do some more parallel runs (I messed this one up by stopping Strava on the iPhone during the ride) and see if it stays this way, if it does I'll be posting a wanted add for a Edge 500 unit, :-)

To be fair to the OP, he tried and nobody responded, at least this thread got people looking at it, although no useful help yet. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/126353-knee-joint-replacement-life-after-surgery/#entry1930028

I was wondering, am I the only one recently that has noticed a distinct loss of accuracy in Strava over the last 3-4 updates? I have routes where looking at the satellite view on the website the track is no where near the actual path. (Today I'm planning on taking the knock on the weight and running the old etrex on my bar to compare the 2 - iPhone vs Garmin) Also, I can repeat a segment 4 or 5 times and it only picks up one or 2 of the "laps". This is happening between trees as well as open space so I don't think its due to the trees covering the segment, I also keep it in my back pocket with no camelpack or anything else to obstruct it.

I do most of my figuring out on the Arduino or the Stamp, once I have the sensors etc working then its fairly simple to translate it down to PIC level. PICs are dirt cheap and the possibilities are almost endless, you also don't need assembler, I do my programming in PICbasic which is much simpler, understandably not as efficient but I'm not trying to wring out every MHz out of them so it works, :-) I started with a cheapo "bidorbuy" programmer, then eventually got a PICkit II from Mantech for a couple of hundred, needed the ISP ability to prevent having to remove the pic all the time.

Will PM you - really need to get myself a lathe one day, I miss my fitting and turning days - would be interested in a case only, I have a few different Cree LEDs that I mess with that I would love to house in a nice casing. I mess with PICs as a side hobby so would do a custom PIC based driver for it with temp sensor, voltage gauge etc, :-) Your build is stunning, always like doing something myself rather than buying it off the shelf.

Love the casing, would love to get my hands on one of those, and perhaps a lens like that

Don't use copper slip grease for bearings.... (incase I'm stating the obvious) Only for threads (BB etc) and seatposts

Builders Warehouse, look in the car section, they have tubes (white and light pink), think it was about R40-R50 for the tube, maybe a bit less Edit: Found a pic - made by herschell

What he said, My M505's were the culprits (only found after replacing almost the entire bike - and the M505s are not easy to service) once I replaced them with M530s my creak went bye bye, :-).

doubt it, more likely that its something to do with the source website no allowing the gif to be embedded

Same on Windows 7 with IE10 (flamesuite: on)

How big is your freezer?

And here: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/seized-seatposts-and-stems One warning, when cutting carbon be sure to wear a dust mask and clothes you don't mind chucking away, carbon dust is not something you want to inhale or get on your skin, think fiberglass just 100x worse.