Ed-Zulu

Hardwood thingymajig is called a "frog" Plane knife with card-breaker, latter is attached with a screw to the knife, seated with a frog in the body. Very nicely restored!

Hi Spokey, I've always wondered about the logistics of your movements on a South African passport in your job, yes it's an assumption. How do you overcome it on a green passport or do you have another type of travel document in your position?

Bonus! Based on that my tree just made me enough for a new bike and apparently my wife's been missing out (I've known of the powers, just never shared the information with her!)

Brilliant!

It's a great space saver and for a small garage like u\yours a good idea too.

Thanks for the Des Latham mention, I thoroughly enjoy his work and virtually only listen to him on long drives now.

I agree!

Ever heard the story about the farmer that won the lotto jackpot, when asked what he'll be doing with the money he replied..."pay my debts and then farm till the money's done" It's a difficult thing to do right, make no mistake.

Hi Patches, I have a collection of Stanley blokcplanes, they all work really well when sharp. I really only need one, but I can't walk past old blockplanes and spoke shaves. The Stanley in link 1 is the one I use often, chews plywood and hardwoods like a champ, great on end grain and can turn square into round in no time. I think application is key, so the decision is to a degree also personal preference?

Epoxy resin cure time is related to temperature mostly, in the application of covering/protecting a table surface or slab like BigDL, you can apply some form of direct heat to the surface to pop the bubbles, this is due to the application being non-structural. Heat destroys the epoxy structural strengths. When building boats in stich and glue, the copper wire bindings are heated to extract them from the epoxy, such a cool process, you should build a boat in stich and glue, tons of woodworking fun! Another thing about epoxy cure times are that when it takes too long it sometimes won't harden if mix ratios were slightly off or mixing was inconsistent and the chemical bond doesn't take place. Epoxy resins are also heavily affected by UV and will breakdown when exposed over time, on the coast one of the best ways to protect an epoxy coating from UV and elements in general is to cover the cured surface with 2K clear/colour tint and then polish to the required shine.

Norrafok!

How could I forget...hahaha

I was honestly hoping someone on here would post the answer...

Those blue nitrile gloves are the bomb for oily jobs!

When I'm home tonight I'll take pictures of what I'm trying to convey here; i'll do table saw cuts to remove the majority of the waste first, then run the router lines? So first cut: run the depth needed less 5mm Second cut: clear the waste out for the handhold Final cut with router; minor material clear out Hope that makes some sense