JBK

Do The Munga in reverse...

Yea but someone else mentioned doing it for points... Lots of people have the misconception that you have to do this test in order to register for endurance profile...

You don't need to do this test in order to register as a endurance / high performance profile.

What's the point in doing this test ?

www.northernfarm.org.za/

Try looking on their website.

"Free beer" was only one year and not for the last few years... So don't do it for this...

I'm loving this thread... I'm still riding 2x10 (11-36) with 24/38 at the front on both my bike and my wife's. I still believe this to the best option out there - quite a statement that, I know.! 2x11 offers nothing extra and just adds weight - there's a hefty increase in mass from a 11-36 to a 11-42 / 11-46 cassette. 2x11 bikes increase the small ring from 24 to either 26 or 28 (more added weight), simply 'because you can' because of the larger sprockets at the back so you just land up with hefty duplication of gear ratios that are almost identical. 1x11 IMO was a complete waste of time and I cringe when I see new bikes in the shop coming with this gearing - today, these are generally middle range bikes and the poor guy/gal is going to be seriously unhappy very soon and have to change. They come with tiny front chain rings so you have no top-end at all. It was a marketing gimmick for bike manufacturers to offer 'less for more'. Almost everyone I know on this gearing is/was unhappy, even my mates who are really strong as they take on tougher challenges and need more range. Almost everyone I know who bought new top end bikes 2 years ago with 1x11 XTR have changed either to 2x11 or 1x12 beacuse 1x11 just didn't "cover all bases". 1x12 finally bridged the gap on gear ratio range from 2x10, however, only with the 10-50 cassette - be careful of NX as this is only 11-50 which might sound like nothing but you lose massive top-end. With 34/10 your ratio is 3.4 but with 34/11 it is 3.09 - so you lose a massive 10%. On my 2x10 I have a range of 3.46 down to 0.67, almost identical to a 1x12 setup (10-50) with 34 front which will give you 3.4 down to 0.68 obviously with larger jumps between ratios. However, I still have slightly more on the top side. I have mates on 1x12 10-50 now wanting to change their front from 34 to 36 to get more on the top side but on tougher races they'll have to change back to the 34 or suffer. Furthermore, the prices of SRAM 1x12 is simply obscene - I mean talk about "milking a market"..! I can buy 6 brand new 10 SPD XT 11-36 cassettes for the same price as ONE XO1 10-50 cassette - and that's XO, not even the XX1 as I'm comparing XT not XTR. Even better, there are so many people falling for the very successful marketing of 1x12 and selling off their "brand new and never used" spares that I can buy new 11-36 cassettes for less than half the price online (so 12 new cassettes for the price of 1 XO1 12spd) I hear the argument that its "nice to have 1x" and the ridiculous statement that "1x gives me a nice clean cockpit" (I mean really..!!! This is a MTB ffs) but in the last few weeks I've demo'd a bike with 1x and going back to my 2x does not feel archaic, instead it feels just as natural. My 2c worth...

What about R140k for a bike that costs R40k...

I doubt it... How many of his 'costs' are once-off costs that were paid off years ago or are fully sponsored... Costs linked to inflation are fuel and food, the latter I believe is sponsored... Tents and bridge, etc were paid off ages ago... I doubt he pays the casual labour 10% each year, maybe 5%... I'm not dissing the event or the organisers, but agree that ALL multi day stage race have lost the plot on pricing... Sadly they all compare themselves to, without doubt, the premier 2 events (Sani2C & W2W) and believe they can price accordingly...

Just after you puke... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

LOL... For Sure... http://www.signaturepilates.co.za Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I had the same - told him the advertised price was actually USD and not ZAR so price was actually US$10K and not ZAR10K - he was happy with that and made 'payment' to my PAYPAL account with user name "ekisadoos"... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Works wonders but you should chat with a pilates instructor for tips and tricks and what not-to-do in order to avoid injury. I can highly recommend my wife's studio in JHB (Bryanston) as she specialises in cycling and running athletes. Keep at it with the ITB - you'll get there and then it's far less painful after each exercise.

More choices and exorbitant pricing... Wait a week and team entries will be down to R5k... Same as last year... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

But their data is all rubbish... I've dropped from 38 to 44 in 3 months and my wife from 55 (ish) to 80... They've lost some events and changed the index from others... All very odd... Just wish that they'd make an official announcement as to what's going on... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Me personally, I can't stand the kids bike seats that go between myself and the handlebars. I bought a weride, used it once and sold it. They restrict your handlebar movement so you have limited turning circle and its impossible for you to get on and off the bike. A proper bike will be setup that you must move forward off your saddle to get a foot on the ground. Impossible with the weride as there's no space for you between saddle and handlebars. The weride in particular also destroys the headset area of your frame and seatpost due to the claps which also don't fit great on oversized headset frames. Be very careful of any brackets scratching carbon frames. Without doubt, the best child seats are those that fit on the rear as they offer the most protection and support for the kids. BUT, you cannot use any of these on a Full Suspension frame - Hardtails only. My suggestion is the GIANT Progeny (the one that comes with blue & pink inner & removable cushions) as this one has a 5 point harness, full support bar in front and high backrest. The problem with the latter is that the kids can't wear a helmet as the backrest then pushes their heads forwards. But the seat is so protective that i don't mind the kids not having a helmet until their heads are high enough for the helmet to go above the backrest. Also, i used to keep a 26" hard tail specifically for riding with this seat but when my son got older and heavier I changed to an 2nd hand 29" hardtail (non carbon). This is also great because once my son progressed on from the rear seat I bought a "Giant Half Wheeler" which he can use up to the age of about 7/8 even though at 6 his now on his own MTB. But when my wife and i want to take him for a longer ride (30 odd km) we still use the half wheeler. And you DON'T want to put these onto a high end Full Sus as you'll destroy your pivot bearings. My son was in the Giant Seat from about 9 months up to about 3/4 years then moved onto the half wheeler. My daughter of 20 months is now enjoying the Seat and has been since she was about a year old. If you want to chat - send me a PM and I'll give you my telephone number. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I personally only use squirt and have done so for about 8-10 years now but i agree, it's not great in wet / muddy conditions. Best to keep a small 'Squirt' with you on your ride and re apply. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

It also seems like there's no National MTB series this year ... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Their website has been down for almost 3 months now... Still sad though as in general they still provided a very good service to the MTB fraternity... Their seeding scores were always a bit weird but again, in general, it was a very useful seeding system... Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I have a garmin edge and a garmin fenix and they are always 10% different to each other. If you read the garmin disclaimer on altitude you will see that they acknowledge their units are not accurate. Strava help section says the same but what strava does it collects data on segments from hundreds of users and calculates an average. I think strava also tracks contours and tries to estimate from that but read their site and see. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

So, which combination : Barzo / Saguaro - Front / Back OR Barzo / Barzo - Front / Back ??

I replaced my rear SPEZ tyre a few weeks back with the Zippering when I tore the tyre wall and noticed afterwards that this is a "Tubeless Ready" tyre as opposed to a "Full Tubeless" Tyre (which my Spez was) - any thoughts / comments on the difference between these two specifications ? I've read that the TR can leak and are more prone to 'burping' out on a ride... I also find that the tyre wall looks very different to that of the Spez tyre in that the Spez you can see the 'reinforcing' lines through the rubber but with this its solid rubber looking... (if this makes sense ?) I also find that I get slightly more 'movement' from the rear in a twisty bit then I did with the Spez unit - both running at same pressures - I've even stopped a few times to check that I haven't lost pressure as this is how it feels (under strain in fast cornering)...

To answer a few questions : 1) My glasses are Rudy Projects 2) They live in their dark case all week and only see sunlight once per week when we hit the trails 3) They're prob about 8 years old but have hardly been used over the past 4 years. 4) Rudy acknowledged that the photocromatic degrades over time but they didn't specify a time. 5) They said that extended exposure to UV will destroy the transition ability 6) My total wear, exposed to UV, would probably be equivalent to about one year had I cycled 4-5 days a week which makes me think it's not only the UV that degrades this and time also. 7) Rudy offered me a 30% discount off a new set of glasses off their website provided that I send them my old pair. LOL - this is most probably not even the retailer margin so they're still making good money. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Has anyone else experienced a problem with Photocromic lenses losing their ability to transition from dark to light when going out of direct sunlight ? If so, what was your experience and did you take it up with the supplier ?