Minion

Poor dude doesn't even have a head. He's all neck.

Take to the shop for them to fix, of course. I am an engineer. This makes me pedantic. The term 'stretch' used here irritates me since it's mostly wrong. Even though everyone knows what it means. With proper care it is possible to eliminate the problem before the first ride (this I what I did with all my bikes), but lots of shops don't seem to do this.

I thought you were supposed to use Di2 with those . I reckon you could still make a reasonable attempt at it with one of those fourth-hand tools.

It's called structural stretch or permanent stretch. It occurs when the individual strands move over each other when the load is first applied. For wire rope with light loads, it's roughly 0.25% of length, so I suppose it could actually affect shifting - I'll admit I'm wrong there. It would also be eliminated by proper pre-stressing of the cable system during installation.

Three clicks on a derailleur is only around 3-4mm of actual cable pull. Less than 1% of the length of a 1.5m cable. A 0.5mm change in radius in a large cable loop during bedding down would easily produce this much change in length, I'd say new cable in old is not bedding in, but the cable actually moving within the housing. 1.8mm ID housing worn to 2mm ID or more gives 0.2mm of play. Easily enough to produce 3-4mm of change in effective length. This is also highly variable over time - one of the reasons why it's better to replace housings and cables together. You accommodate the bedding down while installing the new cable by shifting into the lowest gear with the shift (so that the shift mechanism is resting on the stops, rather than the ratchet), then pulling on the cable to manually shift to the highest gear (so the derailleur is pulling against its limit screws). You then pull hard on the cable to stress it and bed it down. Then take up the slack by undoing the cable pinch bolt on the derailleur and tightening the cable. Repeat a couple of times. If you don't do the pre-stressing step, all the slack comes out while you're riding and shifting, resulting in a return trip to the shop to reset the gears.

They don't. Or at least not by an appreciable amount. Most of what is called 'stretch' is due to the cable bedding down in the housing and the housing bedding down at its attachment points. If you install the cable properly and pre-stress it properly, it's possible to eliminate all of this 'stretch'. After that, the only apparent lengthening of the cable occurs slowly over time as the cable wears into the housing.

The article does not say that stretching has no benefit - it produces definite improved flexibility compared to the control group. It is saying that under their test conditions, weight training, over full range of motion, gives similar if not greater benefits than stretching alone. The conclusion is that, if you're doing full ROM weight training, additional stretching may be redundant. Cycling keeps you in a restricted position for hours on end and none of your joints go through their full ROM. The flexibility benefit of weight training is not there, so some other way of improving flexibility is needed. In this case, the study shows that stretching would help. The articles I've read that relate specifically to cycling indicate that stretching before riding gives no benefit (and may actually hinder performance), but that stretching warm muscles immediately after riding does improve flexibility.

To sneak up on pedestrians.

It's the sound of the freehub pawls sliding over the ratchet. If it's a ball bearing sound, something has gone terribly wrong. http://www.parktool.com/uploads/files/library/zipp-parts.jpg http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service Campag wheels are know for being quite loud when freewheeling. The hollow SRAM Red cassette is also supposed magnify the sound. If you don't like the sound, you can reduce it by taking off the freehub and putting a whole lot of grease around the ratchet. My wheels are almost silent when freewheeling because of this. Edit: added 1000 words.

As a training computer to record your ride and display things like speed, HR, power etc., they're basically the same. The Edge 800 adds a bigger screen and the ability to load maps and use them to navigate. If you wanting mapping and navigation and a big touch screen that can clearly show lots of data fields, then it's worth it. If you just need something that will record where you've been and don't need a huge numbers of data fields displayed at the same time, then not.

It doesn't come with a HR strap, though. They've got the bundle for R2700.

Hell, any interval would do so long as they stuck to the same one for the whole graph. You can't have 100px = 3km at one point and then 100px = 7km on the same axis.

Probikekit are having a 25th anniversary special at the moment. If you order before midnight GMT tonight, you get 15% off. Use the code 25PBKRW15. You could get the Edge 500 bundle for less than R2400, including VAT and shipping etc. A bit over budget, but worth it, in my opinion. I'd stay away from the Edge 605. It's at the end of it's life and lacks some key features like ANT+ support.

Why do you want to change something that's working? Are you an engineer by any chance? For what it's worth, I run around 100psi at the front and 110psi at the back (6.9bar, 7.5bar) and weigh 77kg.

The left one:

800m over 8km is still pretty badass - especially on foot since you can't freewheel down the other side. There's a much bigger problem, though. The horizontal scale is completely wrong. Compare 80-83km and 33-40km, for example.

You gotta love this kind of attitude. He gets bad service and suddenly it's his fault for not trying to do the agent's job for them.

Why should he spend time chasing down the part when that's what the agents are supposed to do? This is supposedly the reason why it's better to buy through the local channels.

It would be really cool if you took Streetview imagery from the whole route and made it into a video of the course.

Someone on this list will definitely be able to help you: https://www.discovery.co.za/discovery_za/web/pdfs/vitality/know_your_health/wellness_network_dieticians_list.pdf

I've sent wheels with the Post Office for less than R100.

R-SYS clinchers weigh around 1350g, Zipp 404 tubbies weigh in at about 1250g. R-SYS wheels are some of the most un-aerodynamic wheels out there. http://www.rouesartisanales.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/aero_english.jpg

If the ad is still open, it's just under the 'Report Advert' button on the right hand side. If it's been closed, the person who posted it can still access it on their profile under closed or expired ads. If it's been deleted, I don't think there's a way. You can still post feedback without it, though.

So it was obvious . Thanks

I may be missing something obvious here, but is there a list of the site's moderators, who they are and which forums they're in charge of?