Minion

I'm glad you're not holding us responsible, but what about the poster.

It shouldn't be that much. R500-R600 for a Veloce or 105 cassette. Less if you can get one second hand.

A combination of that, scheduling the meeting at a time that was very difficult for anyone with a boss to attend and sending out the meeting notice only a week before.

Phone the local DHL office.

What kind of riding are you doing that you're only getting 3,300km out of a road chain? I'm currently sitting on around 5,000+km with still a fair amount of life left (I wouldn't be too surprised if it reaches 10,000km). I run different cassettes on my racing and training wheels for convenience, more than anything else; although there is something to be said for leaving the expensive, soft titanium cassette on the low-mileage race wheels and putting something cheaper and more durable on the high-mileage training wheels. For various reasons, I've accumulated quite a collection of cassettes. Apart from miscellaneous spares lying around, I've got: 1x almost new Veloce cassette on my IDT 1x well-used Chorus cassette on my training wheels 2x partially used Record cassettes (11-23, 12-25) for my racing wheels I've had no issues swapping between the three with the same chain. At most I have to turn the barrel adjuster 1/2 a turn either way to get perfect shifting. This is, however, due to slightly different hub offsets on one, rather than anything to do with the cassette.

I was given the distinct impression that this meeting was for CSA and SASCOC representatives only.

Same ride, different website: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/57571403

http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/48370820 You can view it in the embedded Google Maps/Earth viewer or export as a .kml.

For future reference, the Sunninghill bus from the Midrand station goes straight through the middle between Waterval estate and village. Not sure how close it stops, though.

This could be a flawed assumption. Changing positions causes the feeling to go away. Something about the position that the setup is forcing you into is causing problems. Proper bike setup is an iterative process, so I'd suggest going back to them, explaining the problem and getting them to tweak your setup accordingly.

Hey, if you enjoy them and can afford to replace them if you crash or pothole them, why not ride them all the time. Most insurance companies don't charge a reduced premium if you use a bike only for races (I checked a while back). There is one downside to training with deep sections, but whether it matters depends on how seriously you take things and how you measure your training performance. If you keep training at the same speeds as before, you will get less training effect with deep sections. You need to increase speed to get back to the same intensity (though this can be difficult if you train in a group that dictates the speed to you). With increased speed, you'd also need to increase mileage to ensure you have the same time at intensity.

Contact Gautrain and the 94.7 Race Office. I know they've made some arrangement for race day and it may extend to the days on either side. I suspect it's also less likely to be a problem if you're coming from ORT, rather than on the commuter service.

The look kind of grows on you. Like a tumour or something.

To add to that, the 61.8m translates 4s of time remaining to complete whatever that evasive manoeuvre is. The 27.1m leaves only 0.93s to complete the manoeuvre. An added danger is that in the head-on case, you've got two vehicles taking evasive manoeuvres. Coming from behind, a car has lots of time to go around a cyclist who will, in all likelihood, continue on the same path. Coming from head-on, both the cyclist and the car will be taking evasive action. If they both go to their left or their right, all's good. If one decides to go to their left and the other right, or vice versa - collision. Just think what happens when two people walk towards each other down a passage way, that awkward shuffle as they both try to go one way, then both go the other, then stop, then try get round each other again.

It depends on the circumstances of the collision. Two cars going at 100km/h, crashing into each other and coming to a complete stop is the same energy release as one car hitting a solid wall at 141km/h, but since the energy is spread over two cars, the net effect on each car is the same as if it drove into a wall at 100km/h. When the cars are going at different speeds and their masses are different, though, the collision doesn't necessarily result in them coming to a complete stop. Two cars at 100km/h driving into each other head on has the same effect as a car driving at 100km/h into a wall, but it also has the same effect as a car driving at 200km/h into a stationary one. Using some basic physics, a 1 ton car driving at 60km/h hitting a 100kg cyclist riding at 40km/h head-on, results in both of them travelling at 51km/h in the direction of the car. The cyclist has had a change in velocity of 90km/h. Assuming the collision takes 0.2s, that's a net impact force of over 1.2tons, the same as if the car was moving at 100km/h and the cyclist was standing still. If the same car hits the cyclist from behind, both of them will end up going at 58km/h in the car's direction of travel. The cyclist has experienced a change in velocity of 18km/h. The net force of impact will be less than 260kg - an almost 5-fold reduction in force. This is the same force as if a car moving at 20km/hr had hit a stationary cyclist. If you look at the energy that is liberated in the collision and assume that the car's crumple zone absorbs 75% of it, the car hitting the cyclist head on will have the same effect on the cyclist as the cyclist riding head-on into a wall at 48km/h. A collision from the rear will have the same effect on the cyclist as riding into a wall at 10km/h.

It is generally agreed among professional coaches, such as Joe Friel, that weight training is not nearly as effective for building cycling strength as cycling itself. You'd be better served by finding a steep hill and riding up and down a few times, than wasting time in the gym.

Still missing

I do a lot of road riding and a fair amount of it in traffic. Just the way you interact with the traffic and the way our entire road system is set up would make it very difficult to ride on the wrong side of the road. Say I want to turn left. Riding on the left, I stick out my left hand to signal and then go round the corner. Riding on the right, I'd need to find a gap in oncoming traffic to move over to the centre of the road. If one of those cars want to give me a gap so I can move over, he basically has to stop. It would be a very hairy affair trying to do this on a multi-lane road since you can't really do it one lane at a time. Once in the middle, I'd need to get across moving traffic coming from behind me. Few of those cars will be looking out for a vehicle trying to move from the right hand side of the road to the left. I would also need to be careful of cars turning right, since I'd be crossing their path. Finally, I need to look out for cars coming out of the road that I want to turn in to. Say I want to turn right. Riding on the left, I stick out my right hand to signal, check for traffic and start moving across the road. On a multi-lane road, I can do this one lane at a time - especially if the cars are slowing down for a traffic light. If a car wants to let me in, they can simply lift off the throttle for a bit to give me space or can change lanes around me. Once in the middle, I look for a gap in oncoming traffic and cross. Even better if there's a turning arrow. I don't need to worry about cars in the lane I'm leaving, and I don't need to worry about cars in the road I'm going into. Riding on the right, I just turn right, but need to watch out for cars coming out of the road I'm going into since they're likely not going to be looking in my direction. Riding around taxis also makes things difficult. If I'm 10m from a taxi and he suddenly decides to stop in the yellow line, at 36km/h I'll have 1s to react from the time he stops. Coming from behind, I'd see his brake lights before that, giving me more time. If I suddenly having to swing into the lane next to me, the car 40m behind the taxi, at 72km/h has 2s to react to the taxi and 2s to react to me. If he does hit me, the impact will be equivalent to one at 36km/h - below the NCAP pedestrian safety test speed. Coming from the front, I have 1s to react to the taxi. The car coming behind the taxi has only 0.667s to react to me. The impact will be equivalent to one at 108km/h - almost 3x the NCAP pedestrian safety test speed. In the first scenario, you're less likely to be hit and more likely to survive if you are. In the second you're more likely to get hit and less likely to survive when you do.

Yet it isn't and even the most thorough of frame manufacturers, Cervelo, only mentions the seatpost minimum insertion point in the manual. If the frame manufacturer has a seat post insertion requirement that deviates from the industry norm they most say so. If they don't and the customer follows the norm of using the seatpost insertion mark and the frame fails, the fault is the manufacturers, not the customers.

If the saddle was hit from front or back, none of those tubes would be taking rotational sheer. It it was hit from the side, the top tube and to a lesser extent the seat stays would have had some sheer loading.

I'm not sure exactly what you're saying. Assuming the break occurred just below the bottom of the seatpost, that still leaves around 10cm or so of seatpost inserted in the seat tube - well above the minimum insertion length of most seatposts I've seen.

It would be nice if they responded to product enquiry emails, though.

An initial review: http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/11/bikes-and-tech/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-riding-and-setting-up-campagnolos-electronic-power-shift-group_197494/1 Price for the complete Record group is claimed to be similar to Di2, Super Record much higher.

Don't pull on it too hard. If you must pull your chain, you can stop it elongating too much by lubing it. This is different to pulling your wire. The best way to completely stop stretch and elongation it to put it in a box.

Assuming a layer around .2mm thick it would add around 40-80g to the naked frame. I say, stuff the weight, chrome the the thing.