Minion

Eish, if the weather forecast is anything to go by, I'm going to be wearing so many layers you wouldn't be able to notice.

At long last, the Metro Police have a way of properly enforcing moving violations like dodgy lane changes, tailgating, reckless driving etc.

I recall reading that some modern cars have a sensor (for NOx, SOx, unburnt fuel, I think) somewhere in the exhaust system thats then linked to the fuel management system. Could be that the LRP gases are confusing the sensor that's expecting ULP petrol. It's then screwing around with the engine management trying to compensate.

With the whole thing coming from some confusion of the definition of: - Thick (5-7mm) wetsuit - warm - Thin (2-3mm) wetsuit - not so warm - Tri (thick, but thin in places) wetsuit - warm, but possibly colder in places.

I'm coming back from a knee injury, so 24-28km/h should be OK. You'll have to find someone else for the run part, though. I stay in the area and my club rides from Marks Park on Sundays, so I've got some ideas for routes.

Nothing wrong with the Google approach. Combined with the Pubmed, Compendex, journal etc. searches and some filtering it forms the basis for most surveys of current literature. The trick is to tie that vibration to a loss of performance or else link removal of vibration to an improvement in performance. Anecdotes and thought experiments provide an indication of possible fruitful areas for research and can guide experimental design. They do not constitute sound scientific evidence.

Which day? The rustige ride part would work for me on Saturday.

When I last used Garmin Training Center, I think there was an 'export as KMZ' / 'Open in Google Earth' option, though that was a while ago. I'm pretty certain Sport Tracks has a built-in KMZ export option or else a plug-in to do it.

I think I'd still find that a bit irritating. I'd also need to get longer socks.

Isn't that a bit uncomfortable?

They were. I'd say all of the riders wear them for recovery after the ride. They're different to compression socks, though, which seem to be a fad among triathletes during a race.

http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/02/an-update-on-compression-clothing.html The current research doesn't show any real benefit from wearing compression clothing while riding, but it does show some possible recovery benefits from wearing it afterwards.

I've not come across any places that do carbon or metal chip holders. You could get a place that does water jet or laser cutting to make you a plate with an axle mount and slots that you could cable-tie the chip to.

http://youtu.be/msQPHxTUgzI

Except government. If you're good at what you do there, you get fired.

An average power of 205W was enough for a 75kg rider to do a 2:40 94.7 last year. Playing around with the numbers says that 42W would roughly get you a 7hr time while 125W would roughly get you a 3:30 time. A time of 2:15 would require an average power of roughly 300W. Jeremy Roy's average for 210km Stage 12 of this years tour was also about 300W, but over a time of 6:10.

How slowly are these guys riding? 450 kcal in three hours is roughly equivalent to riding at an average of 42W. That's about 18km/h on a flat road. Even 450 kcal/hour is pretty slow (125W and 29km/h on a flat road).

I've found that a cycling jersey flapping about in the wind does bad things to my HR readings. Not a problem in winter due to the number of layers, but in summer I need to wet my jersey over the sensor too. Edit: I see Wil6 beat my to it

This may not apply to PlanetXs, but the Zipp engineers say that crosswind conditions are the best time to go for a set of deeper section Zipps (e.g. 808s vs 404s). Their aero data also shows that 808s or a rear disk have significantly less drag than 404s and normal rims at high yaw angles (i.e. high cross winds). Their advice is to ride the deepest wheel that you feel you can comfortably handle in the cross wind.

You actually save more time if you're going slower. The time saved as a percentage of total time is less, but the absolute amount of time is more. You can see a rough illustration of this if you play around with the calculator on Analytic Cycling: http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesSpeed_Page.html First some fast riders: A rider riding at 300W goes at about 44.0 km/h and takes 3271s to complete 40km. A rider riding at 310W goes at 44.6 km/h and takes 3231s to complete 40km (i.e. 40s less). The rider riding at 300W can also take 3231s if he reduces his drag (Cd) from 0.46 to 0.443. Now a slower rider: A rider riding at 200W goes at about 37.8 km/h. He would take 3806s to complete 40km. The same rider would go at 38.3km/h if he reduced his drag from 0.46 to 0.443. He would now complete 40km in 3759s (i.e. 47s faster). Over the 180km of an Ironman, the rider riding at 300W would save 3min and the rider riding at 200W would save 3:32 min. NOTE:, the above assumes a 70kg rider, 0.5m2 frontal area, 0.005 rolling resistance, zero gradient and sea level air density.

It may not be the case here, but just because two items are made in the same factory (and even sometimes with the same materials and on the same line) doesn't mean that they will be the same quality. The factory could have very good processes and quality control, but the degree to which those processes are applied would depend on the actual frame design and customer specification. In the case of the same factory and molds, branded frames may be specified with a higher grade of carbon and resin while the OEM versions use lower, cheaper grades. They may look the same, but the cheaper frame may end up heavier etc. Even if they're using the same material grades and molds, they may still not have the same quality level. The branded frames may specify a tighter tolerance on dimensions, layup techniques etc. and may require more QC checks along the way. This allows the branded frame to use less material etc. to accomplish its task, but may result in more rejects (raising cost). It also requires more (thus costly) design work for the frame. The OEM frame with slacker tolerances etc. could end up using more material to compensate, making it heavier but requiring less detailed design work and fewer rejects. Finally, if it is a reputable company I believe that, even though the frames may look the same, they probably do not use the same materials grade, fibre orientations etc. If they were producing exact generic copies, I suspect the big brands would have moved their business elsewhere.

That's the part that has me worried about attempting some of these climbs. I reckon I could manage the pain of going up. It's the terror of coming down again that I'm not so sure about.

What you need to do is cut up an old tin can and place it around the the hub on the cheap rear wheel. That way, everyone will think you're using a Powertap, making the wheel more acceptable: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Wo8yCZ1eTVw/TJ0eJaH9fOI/AAAAAAAAh3g/mht7chOjpSQ/IMG_0528%5B3%5D.jpg

The rough guideline I use when selling stuff is to find the cheapest available, reputable price that someone could get a new equivalent. I look at both local shops in my area, online shops like CWC and oversees shops like CRC, Wiggle etc. (including VAT, duties and shipping for these). I then take about 50% of that price as a starting point. I'll then adjust it up or down a bit, depending on age, mileage and condition. It usually ends up around 40%-60% of the new price.