Minion

Have you tried eBay?

Possibly less fun and satisfying, though.

After looking at the available evidence, Joe Friel (of The Cyclist's Training Bible) reckons that wearing compression clothing while riding does not really provide any benefit, but wearing it afterwards does improve recovery: http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/02/an-update-on-compression-clothing.html

I'd hazard a gues and say it's an FP-something.

I agree that it's good practise to always check work when you receive it back etc., but bike shops need to catch a wake-up these days. If they sell a bike with loose bolts or if some defect crops up that is not due to normal use/abuse they would have to take it back and you would be entitled to a full refund if it's within six months of purchase. If you were to have an accident because of the loose bolts, they would be liable.

It's to hold the two lose ends together while you join them with a link pin or removeable link.

Looking at the context, Zinn means a link is the two part thing consisting of one roller link and one pin link i.e. the same thing that Shimano calls two links. Both are saying that you should add a one inch section of chain (you couldn't add 1/2 inch only without using a special offset link).

I'll have to disagree with you on this one, Johan. ANSI says that the two-part affair consists of a roller link and a pin link, each 12.7mm long. Source: Machinery's Handbook 26th Ed, Industrial Press, 2000

From the picture in the Shimano doc, they mean that two links consist of one inner link and one outer link i.e. 25.4mm pin to pin:

Consider giving Johan Bornman (here on the hub and www.yellowsaddle.co.za) a shout. He'll build the wheel and I think can help source all the components. NOt quite click and forget, but close. I've got a set of 32 spoke Mavic Open Pros that he built for me. I broke a spoke on the rear wheel and was still able to ride the 50km back home. He replaced the spoke and retrued the wheel for free under his guarantee. Of the factory wheels you mentioned, I'd go for the Fulcrums (or the Campag Zondas/Ventos which are basically the same thing). I had a set of Scirrocos (same as Racing 3s) and they held up very well. I only got rid of them because I got a power meter. Of course, breaking a spoke on one of these is likely to be ride ending.

Consider getting some 32 spoke custom built wheels. They may be slightly above your price range but, if built properly, they will be close to indestructible.

I do. I've caught them a couple of times trying to put the wrong fuel in (so far only 95 instead of 93 - they haven't yet tried diesel). The gifted individual at the petrol station also managed to put antifreeze into a friend's oil resevoir two weeks ago (an expensive mistake that the garage was, fortunately, willing to pay for).

Couple of methods with illustrations on the Park Tool site: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing

I've noticed that if you sticky an ad it still doesn't show up on the classifieds home page. Can you consider changing this or making a separate category on the home page (like the Most recent and Most viewed ones). In my opinion, it doesn't really make much sense to sticky an ad if people then still have to drill down into the individual categories to find it. On a related note, will using a bump cause the ad to move up on the home page or also only on the category pages?

Racetec races are the only ones that will officially help with your 94.7 seeding (i.e. you will be seeded automatically based on these). If you're prepared to pay a reseeding fee you can, however, use your Championchip results to get them to manually reseed you. You will need to email them once you get your official seeding or else apply for reseeding at the expo. I think I paid R250 for a reseed last year.

Generally, the problem can be fixed by properly setting the limit screws on the front derailleur, as described by FeO. You can also avoid it by backing off the power a bit when you do the front shift. Sometimes, though, the specific groupset and frame combination makes it difficult to get a setting that stops the chain jumping while also stopping it from rubbing in extreme high and low gear ratios. In this case, you can get a chain catcher that will stop the chain from overshifting: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/k-edge-road-clamp-chain-catcher/

I found the source for the 220-Age review. The error is actually 7-11bpm. THE SURPRISING HISTORY OF THE “HRmax=220-age” EQUATION The graph below, showing HRmax vs. Age for 196 individuals between 11 and 33 years old illustrates the problem very well: The website below has an HR max calculator based on a number of other referenced sources that may be more accurate: http://www.brianmac.co.uk/maxhr.htm

I recall reading that they plan to phase out non-SRAM Quarqs over the next two years.

The latest rumour seems to be that the Polar will cost around $2500 for pedals and PM (no head unit) and the Garmin will be $1500 for the pedals and PM (unsure whether this will include head unit).

The standard deviation of the Max HR = 220-age equation is around 7-9bpm (I'll need to dig up the source). This means that for every 1000 people, 317 should have a MHR that is more than 7-9bpm higher or lower than the prediction, 46 should have a MHR that is more than 14-18bpm higher or lower and 3 should have a MHR that is more than 21-27bpm higher or lower. Fewer than 250 will be within 2-3bpm of the prediction.

Why did they need two lines? Surely one line with two labelling stamps would work as well? Two lines might imply different tolerances, material grades or QC processes - hence the price difference.

The original manufacturer has, theoretically, had twenty years of exclusive market access before their patents expire and the generics enter the market. I am less morally concerned about buying generic drugs than knock-off clothing. The life-saving benefits of making a cheaper generic drug accessible to many people are significantly higher than the (almost nonexistent) benefits of flooding the market with Foakleys. Finally, there is a difference between a generic and a fake product. The generic does the same job, with the same effectiveness as the original (disregarding the placebo effect of taking a non-generic). A fake pretends to be the original and is often of a lower quality. You might say that a Raleigh is the generic version of a Pinarello: does the same job, without the flash, at a much lower price.

The Powertap is also great for telling you whether you're training light or not. What I previously thought of as a light ride turned out to be quite hard and not as light as it was supposed to be. From an injury recovery perspective, I've also found that sticking to a specific power+cadence (=torque -> force) target is much more effective than sticking to HR based targets or just going by feel.

I agree with you 100%. My point was that, from a pure weightloss perspective, only calories are important. The mix is, however, essential for the weightloss to be sustainable and for a healthy, long-term diet.

in order to absorb the energy of the impact. This helmet absorbs the energy by breaking internally. The lab test they used is the same lab test that other cycling helmets have to pass in order to be certified. I'd wager that a lightweight racing helmet (a compromise between weight and strength) passes this test by a much smaller margin than this and other commuter helmets.