AndreZA

The G2 geometry is what puts me off Trek/Fisher bikes. You can not just change the fork, you will need a G2 fork.

Someone on here said it's a Merida brand, just like Specialized.

I don't see anything wrong with it. If the seller gets a buyer, good for him.

Is that 7am in summer aswell? Why bother. I used to be on the road at 5:30am so that I could be back by 10am.

I read in the paper yesterday that the contestants on Masterchef Australia are each being paid R3500 a week. Which is just below the county's minimum wage and way below the average. That is R14000 a month. Where in this country is that minimum wage?

Damn guys, I don't know what I will do if this must happen to me. Good luck to you all. And keep looking at the horizon.

What size? I've got a nice pair of Specialized (size 44) for R500. Used for 80km.

Heigth maybe, but not fore and aft.

I've got a Polar CX800 with 2x speed sensors, 1x cadence sensor, 2x bike mounts, 1x HR strap for R2200 for you.

100% seat position has absolutely nothing to do with handlebar position. If you start going to 120mm and longer stems, then the frame is too short for you. If you go shorter then 80mm, talking road, XC and not trail or DH, then frame is too long for you.

If you run a line through the centre of a Thomson layback post you will see that the centre of the clamp and the centre of the post is indeed 20mm apart. So it is a proper layback post. IF their layback is the same as other's straight, then why do they make a straight one which is also the same as other's staight. Back to the original question. It's all got to do with setup. The usual "knee cap over the axle of the pedal" scenario. If you do this and you run out of seat rail with in the front or at the back, depends on if you need a layback or not. I like to keep my clamp as close to the centre of the rail. So even if I still have room to move, I still like the get the post that will be able to put the clamp in the middle of the rails.

What ever happened that guy here on the Hub that was going to develop a system. He said it was not that difficult or expensive.

Julle almal is net te bang om dit te sê. Die ou is f*kken mal.

Cannondale started this among alot of other things like BB30. They made their tubing so thin, they had to increase the diameter to give it some strength.

Most of the time not. Check virtual top tube length, not seat tube length.

A straight head tube is the same diameter (1 1/8") top and bottom and tapered starts at 1 1/8" at the top and at the bottom it is 1.5".

It's freaky how that they found that I link to their site.

I would go out the top gate of the botanical gardens and got down Byers Naude (red line). Just after you cross Thomaas Bowler you will find a bus stop and behind the bus stop is an entrance. Go in there and follow the trail. The green line is my line that I take when I'm "going" as I start my rides with Albert's Farm.

Follow the green line.

Lynskey is very eager to deal direct with clients in SA. So much so that it almost becomes annoying. Maybe they are just hard-up for business. That was my experience anyway.

http://tufrack.mybigcommerce.com/product_images/h/520/dj_blk__27212_zoom.jpg http://www.tufrack.com/ I don't like the tie down method.

I thinks it depends on how much pedaling needs to be done on course.

Imagine someone brings that up at a league race. Wonder if they will take action.

The Dogma is not light if you take into account how much it costs. I guess the only way is to check serial numbers with head office.

I think the tumbling weed is correct about that. I want to know, on non-cheap brake arches (talking road bikes here) why do the cables feed on the left and on cheap BSOs the cable feeds on the right.