TheV

can test your brakes by trying to dodge runners, walkers, dogs, ducks and all sorts of other thing on the spruit.....

Listen to the man!!!!

That is NOT good.... someone way over tightened those bolts and f'kd up that frame.... no warranty in the world will help you... You would have to take that to a carbon specialist and they would have to cut/splice the frame and "embed" new eye's... will never be a perfect fix... you might as well have them respray and prep the rest of the frame while they are at it... Sorry for your loss...

You have to be more specific. Model/Year of Brakeset What "clearance" do you want to adjust- lever, stroke, caliper alignment? Whats the problem.

If you look at the caliper, how much space is there between the Rotor and the Pads.... I run my brakes with only about 2mm per pad/side, if that. Also check that both your pads contact/engage the rotor at the same time. Are they Race or Trail versions of the XTR, on the race versions you cant set the reach adjust, if they are trail versions check the reach is not all the way out... I dont think pads will make a difference on both front and back, it seems to me that you require a good old bleed and adjust....

I think it's really bad... much worse than a simple cosmetic problem... I've seen this before... I think your forks are being eaten alive by superbugs..... Do your research... read here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microbial_corrosion "Microbial corrosion, also called bacterial corrosion, bio-corrosion, microbiologically-influenced corrosion, or microbially-induced corrosion (MIC), is corrosion caused or promoted by microorganisms, usually chemoautotrophs. It can apply to both metals and non-metallic materials."

+10000000 And at the same time, it's really great to have two or more bikes, because when you do have a technical problem or "issue" with 1 bike you have no excuse or reasons forcing you not to ride the other.... And some days, it's great to have some variety and options.... matching the bike with your mood, riding conditions or intended purpose...

HAHA, no he didn't, that is his price to LBS... meaning that the street price should be no more than 10k... max!!!

AWESOME!

No, keep your yeti, dont be a fool! Maybe add a bike to your portfolio, but dont trade in. when you realise your mistake, it will be too late and then you'll be sorry!

Depends, do you ride in lycra or baggies? How much travel on your forks for furks sake? if it's less than 140mm your a sissie... If your pedals has "egg" instead of "candy" in it's name then your a dirt-roadie for shure...

Dangle can't dance.... he has a condition called vertical-drop-outs

LOL.... @8 beers you THINK you can dance....

your points, opinions and ideas are not far off.... however as usual they are just a bit bloated and overstated. Just like the revisited and extended version of this song!!! http://youtu.be/evA-R9OS-Vo

Pleasure - Like I said, your website looks good, your products look even better, hope you make some mooollaaa!! Glad my flames got you some attention, because when I stumbled across your post it was just about stale...

Punch her in the guava?

Dont worry about the weight, it's not important. Start worrying about the weight when you are super fit and and your bodyweight/fat% is spot on. Until then nothing else matters except that you: Like the brand, like the colour scheme, enjoy the ride, and have a suspension, drivetrain and brakest that works reliably and well.. that's most important...

Some shop assistant told me that they have all been recalled due to faulty suspension mountings, what's the story with that?

I'm 1.83 - so I usually go with Large, although on paper most bikes say upto 1.85 can go medium... I just find Large with shorter stem much better for me.... around 610-615mm top tube is what i personally like... Yes, i was also not sure on 15% sag, it's a LOT.. actually amounts to 23mm believe it or not... but as per FOX official specifications you should go between 23mm for XC and up to 40mm for "All-mountain".... was skeptical about it, but it rides absolutely fine at 15%... it just floats over alles.

Thanks peeps, really loving the SB-66...... First SRAM gruppo for me too... it's taking a bit to get used to... but the bike itself is an absolute dream to ride, just floats over everything... Just need to find best tire pressures to run... suspension feels really good to me... rear on about 27% sag, front about 15%....

Where will these Pyga frames be "made" huh? I did not compare "it" to anything, just said that the price seemed high compared to other highly rated and in-high-demand, top brand ds frames. Hope you'll love your frame/bike... no need to get snotty with me mr. fanboy. All that over me suggesting a R1100 drop in ds price and increase on the ht price?

16k for DS is too much... i paid R18k for my Yeti SB-66 with kashima RP23. The HT price is a bit cheap. I would suggest they make retail of HT @ R 6750 and DS @ R 14900, that would make it good value and comparable with other brands.

Thanks - was surprised how easy it pedals.... usually takes some time to get used to a new bike... but looks like I will get used to her very quickly... Took some time to get settled on my TOMAC Snyper, except for small saddle adjustments this was spot on first ride, very comfortable...

Spruit of course, where else...? Chased some 29er plastic Cannondale's up a hill, they couldn't drop me. Now its a coin toss for tomorrows technical test.... Thaba or Rietvlei???? mmmmhhhh Rietvlei is quicker to get to the really technical bits.... Thaba has a couple more fun technical sections, but you have to pedal so much uphill to get there...

YETI SB-66, SRAM XX, EASTON WHEELS, STEM AND BARS. Only 13.4kg's - including pedals, reverb seat-post etc etc!