philip.maree

Sure you apply the same logic then to Full Suspension 26ers

I have a REBA XX and run less pressure in Positive than the Negative. I am 90kg's and run 90 Positive and 100 Negative. Sorts out the smaller bumps.

Would love to buy Tread mag but I think it's made of recycled toilet paper. Unfortunately I can't even open it without experiencing the urge to throw up!

That's a pity. The shimano's and crank brothers have got the right idea with proper tubeless rims. I know Easton 2012 is also tubeless rims without the tape. But I believe the AM's are very descent wheels. And they look the business as well. So I recon the 1420g for the Wheels exclude the tape.

American Classics are bringing out a Race Wheelset for 2012 at 1420g. And I am sure it's a tubeless rim without the rim strip hassles. Here is a link to the All Mountain review but it mentions the new Race Wheelset. AMERICAN CLASSIC All Mountain Tubeless TCS 29″er Wheels: Final Review

Definitely going to give that a try then. Thanks!

Would a run once a week really make that big a difference?

Thanks a lot!

No Tjop. Just wanted to determine what the 2011 frame weight was so if someone posted the 2012 weight I could do the math.

Any one know what the frame weight is of the Momsen SL929? I see on their site that they have shaved 150g of the 2011 model. But what is the weight of either the 2011 or 2012 frame?

Don't forget 2011 Marathon World Champ

This cranks is carbon and doesn't have the side bolts, just the spindle bolt. I did what you suggested but was worried that there might be an adverse effect on the BB if the crank is not installed to the specifications. Read on some posts that the LH Crank Arm has come off and things like that since the spindle bolt is the only thing securing it.

Thanks for the info. The shell is 68mm and I have tried it with the recommended spacers but still the same problem. But will try it again.

Nobody?

I bought a FSA Team Edition Mega Exo road crankset. I am having a huge amount of hassles installing it. I cannot seem to torque the crank to spec. I can only torque it to 21nm before the cranks stop spinning freely. The installation instructions requires it to be between 44nm and 55nm. I have search the interweb for solutions and I have added and removed spacers to drive side and non-drive side, installed with and without the inner sleeve of the BB. I am starting to run out of patience. Anybody else have had similar issues? Any suggestions?

http://www.bernardriders.com.au/merida-2012/

Confirmation Page. Mail will follow soon hopefully.

If you can get your hands on a Maxxis Ignitor, you would be very happy. Haven't seen them locally anywhere but use to get them from CRC.

Are you bring the frames in? Or complete bikes?

Will give that a double check. When I adjust the limit screw so that the cage shifts further over, the chain actually shifts to far.

Not sure, I have googled and that was the majority of responses to this issue on the forums. All I know is that I am struggling with shifting in the front. The FD is 100%, the large chainring is new. I just don't know anymore?

To my knowledge the RD assist in the chain tension. If the spring in the RD is not stiff enough then the chain will be slack and will hamper shifting. The old 9sp X.0 RD's could be opened and the spring tension adjusted. The new ones don't work like that. I am running a standard XX blade 26t 39t combo.

I have replaced the large chainring as it seems that the pickups were worn down. But even with a new large chainring and the checking of the position and alignment of the derailleur, the shifting in the front is still not great. Is there any truth to the fact that the tension in some 10sp Rear Derailleurs are not enough and that SRAM will replace the derailleur in that regard? Has anyone experienced trouble with shifting in the front?

I have a XX Front Derailleur with an XX Crank. I used to run 2x9 and everything was fine but since I converted to 2x10 the front shifting is just horrible. I only shifts up sometime and won't shift under load. I have tweaked everything that I can think of tweaking. Limit screws, cable tension, new chain, chainline. Could it be one of the following? 1. The pickups on the chainrings are worn and should be replaced? 2. The tension spring in the X.0 RD is to slack, can I adjust this? Any advice/suggestions would be helpful. I am doing Sani2C next week and don't want to struggle with shifting.

Can go wrong?