vanniri

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

I weigh 87 and used XTR hubs, laced with DT spokes (not butted) on Mavic 819 on two bikes in excess of 4 years without any servicing needs. One set is on a Santa Cruz Chameleon which were used for real hard riding over anything I managed to clear. Had them hand built by some British oke visiting Shimano during the time I got them. He even dipped the ends into linoleum oil and let it dry somewhat before screwing into rims, I knew since the rims never really manage to come clean. Bottom line: expert handbuilt using non-butted spokes on 32 hole rims should do it for you.

Just bought a team Merida - OOPS! Seriously - here in Salvador, Brazil a large number (at least 8 from the last three years) of serious cyclist are riding the Merida Team (reason I bought one since I know after service would be good). All have FSA cranks and not a single one has mention such a problem to me. Will ask them this week-end, also check my bike tonight. Exactly what should I be looking for? The bolt on the non-drive side becoming loose?

Pro?s choices are limited due to sponshorships. In XC racing low rolling resistance is a priority, yet in the front you also need cornering ability. The middle of the tyre (depending on foot print which depend to some degree on tyre pressure) influence rolling resistance the most. If you want to fit two different tyres, attempt to get a like pattern in the middle and for the front one more agressive/rigid knobbies on the side. For all-round riding I have found good results with Schwalbe - Nobby Nic at the front and Racing Ralph rear. Size - 2.1 If I can get some, and are interested in racing, I would try a Furious Fred at the back and a Racing Ralph Front. Size - 2.1 (maybe 2.25 front) In SA (and the associated rocks) use the race guard model - the sidewalls are flimsy on the Schwalbe?s

Well too late now, after resisting carbon for a number of years I purchase a carbon mtb some three months ago. And virtually everything is carbon (frame, fork, brakelevers, crank, etc.) - I though I might as well go big if I decide to go! Will let you know how it holds up - I am pessimistic but still loves the lack of weight and the way it rides.

My frame came with a clear sheet of plastic attached to the down tube - quite thick (wonder how much weight does it add) My cycle buddy (who is on his 8th carbon frame) has done it with alll his recent bikes to prevent damaging the surface. Aparently damaging the glue layer is the problem.

Since you guys seem to have listened to some stuff in school science class (ahh, ahh, if Cindy was just not so darn good looking...), plz help me out. What, if anything, to put between carbon and carbon (seatpost and frame that is)

A orange one.. Sweet bike. How did you know it is orange? - yes it is sweet kept me cycling in the Balkans for 2 years without any problems.

Cycling mags talk about the effect of different materials on ride quality. Framebuilders talk about ride quality built into the frame. Me, I am just a person who rides bikes. Having experienced steel, aluminium, titanium and recently carbon. For some reason they all felt different, but apart from the material variances all the bikes were different brands also. The difference most noted by me was the sound from the vibration of the frame when or a tar road and tyres are inflated hard, or the pitch of creaking noices. I bought my first carbon frame only recently and was very suprise on the ride, all aspects: speed, handling, feel, etc. I like racing and are obviously baised towards speed. If I have to list the material in preference I would say: 1) Carbon 2) Alu 3) Ti 4) Steel

Economy? - you only turn 40 once! Seriously: stage races is hard on bikes, especially pivots. Just for this reason I would choose the single pivot over the more complicated linked one. I?ve ridden one Giant HT and two SC?s (Blur and Chameleon). Sold the Blur due to maintenance hassles. Still have the Chameleon. Had a racing buddy with a Superlight - still has it and he really enjoys it.

Yes I have - did it for some time (8 months). Reminded me of Pedro?s with the Green cap. Did turn black very quickly and had a funny burning smell to it (even at the speeds I ride), relatively easy to clean although messy. Had not had problems with splatter and I used to ride with V-brakes back then so I would have known

Looking at these replies I am glad I am a boss and not in IT Have to go now, I need to change the deadlines/specs/formats/objectives before someone comes back with a solution to whatever I have given them to do!

The Guy in Pink - You mentioned the habits in South America - how did you know I logged-on from South America since my location is still shows Slovenia? Btw the vanniri is a legacy from working at Ernst & Young some time ago - for login purposes they used to take the first 5 letters of your surname and combine it with the first two of your name Are you psychic? vanniri2009-01-01 17:15:32

I've ridden with most brands since the elastomer Judy's existed. Of the shox you mentioned the Reba has excellent reliability, the new Sid compared to the old one is stiffer but heavier. I used to ride a manitou super - lots of flex (even more than the old Sid), recently I bought a complete bike with a Manitou MRD R7 (the one with the carbon wrap). I was very pessimistic before my first ride but since then it gained my respect in the stiffness aspect. Bottom line: your weight is 55kg - I would consider nothing heavier than a Sid or R7. If you want to race XC you go as low as your weight and wallet let you. Since you weight so little as second budget option will be to get one of the old Sid's - I suppose old stock would sell for virtually nothing, I saw a race the other day and it was dirt cheap. I also do not understand what you describe as the Sid being soft, since both the rebound and damping is regulated by air tuning the options is virtually unlimited. Enjoy the shopping and the riding even more

I have no experience of the cycle route you guys are referring to but some years ago on my honeymoon in Knysna my wife and I did the green route (was my honeymoon after all!) the correct way round (at least following the arrows). On one of the jeep tracks a couple of cyclist come from the front, although I kept left one guy suddenly passed and we had a head-on with him ending with a broken wrist. The guys from the rented bike shop were more interested in the condition of their bike (the other guy was on a rented bike), than people not following the route markers. Anyway since then I prefer to yield for oncoming traffic since I prefer to be cycling the next day.

I lived in Macedonia (old Yoguslavia) for two years, they used to open ALL incoming and outgoing parcels - and not one single time were anything missing (even those lovely Green & Black chocolates from my mother-in-law). Can?t imagine what they are looking for. Btw the post office in Macedonia?s emblem looked exactly like the old NP sign (that bull horn thing). Couldn?t believe my eyes at first, later on was looking for PW behind the counter.

The amount I spent on repairs is directly in relation to how muddy it was or if I had a fall. Luckily I never experienced the latter during a race. Two muddy races that cost me some bucks were: Sabie 2005 - the muddy time trail resulted in a broken XTR derailleur, chain and cables. Had to replace the brake pads on V-brakes as well, Sani2C 2006 - shot XT bottom bracket (brand new before the race) & chain. I stopped riding duel suspension as a result of maintenance issues. I also used to hate cycling in the mud/wet. For mtb I used to budget R6k on repairs per year and add R2k per stage race competed in. I am currently living in Brazil - lots of mud & rain. No problems yet, but have finally changed to SRAM and FSA. Seems to hold-up better in the mud than the big S (shifting is better in mud, albeit the running more noisy in general), but then again only time will tell.

All around the Balkans really (although Slov ain't anymore part of it), leaving for Brazil end of August and will only be in UK and Kosovo until then. But I bet I'll find a few people to paty with in Brazil

Cycling in Kosovo I've been living in Kosovo for last two years. Been MBK'ing all over the place. Some very interresting places to ride - also extremely safe. Photo is typical of the Balkans, yesterday I was cycling when two guys passed me in a Volkswagen Golf with a rear tractor tyre fixed on the roof - and they looked at me as if I'm from Mars.