vanniri

Looking at the sales section I cannot believe the products being sold. Why do people sell "nice" stuff so quickly? I guess we need two more choices: 6) Selling all my stuff, i.e. leaving the country 7) Buying and reselling at a (hopefully!) margin

Take off the rear wheel, have a look on inside of hanger, use allen tool to remove the bolt on each wheel. Do it yourself - you?ll feel like the king. Sram replacements are expensive and worn quickly. Various other brands available - check/ask compatible. Depending on where you live you will probably have to buy what?s available. Buy two pairs if you have the dough - especially if you?re considering to do some stage racing. A worn wheel on top can lead to sloppy shifting in my experience, the bottom one of less importance. Note: they are usually bottom/top specific. Top one needs lateral movement to compensate for micro misalignment of gears.

I would usually agree with frame first, components later. But at the price of the Silverback I?ll go with it. On comparing the two frames - I guess both are alu - I have no experience with any of the two, but the Silverback?s looks get my vote.

Cycling news had another interesting titbit: "Dorel purchased Cannondale and Sugoi from Pegasus Partners for nearly US$200 million cash in early February 2008. Cannondale, an early pioneer of production aluminium bikes, began importing carbon frames from Taiwan in 2007" So much for old carbon Made in the US of A frames! Sometime ago I purchase a Santa Cruz Cameleon (after they moved their production to Taiwan). SC sent a card with the name and signature of the framebuilder attached to the frame only purchase. Guess what?, the framebuilder turned out to be an American living in Taiwan. Also - the head huncho of frame building with SC is a Taiwanese guy living in America! So much for American handbuilt being any better or worse than other countries.

I bought a Merida some months ago, previously ridden various top-end frames (S-Works for one). Was very pessimistic, bought it because was available on shop floor and agent sells most Merida in Brazil, i.e. good after sales service. I was amazed to say the least. This is a stunning bike. Read a comparitive test by Bike (german magazine) on test of high-end carbon HT. Coming from this pedigree I believe your are making the right choice. Btw between Giant and Merida they manufacture most bicycle frames under contract. Giant is generally believed to have to the most sofisticated factory in the world.

In Sau Paulo, Brazil, they apparently do regular organised night cycling on the city roads to avoid traffic. Saw an article about it the other day on an inflight magazine. The article did not mention at which times they cycle, but the author did mention they had to dodge a few vehicles and were shout and hoot at.

Just checked my invoice from Cyclelab from my last visit to SA - ZAR 8000. How much could I have saved?vanniri2009-03-07 07:31:23

I support lbs whereever I am. Especially the small shops have a unique cycling passion which I share. The larger shops have lost some of that, but you need them to promote cycling on a larger platform. Btw outside West Europe and North America most cycling products I find to be expensive. In Eastern Europe I have been to shops selling only new stuff from the previous years production batches at very reasonable prices - if I ever open a bikeshop in SA I will do just that and call it "No-bling". Whatever the reasons (tax, logistics, volumes) South Africa is not unique, get creative or die.

Three of us manage 77km/h on Mtb?s gravel road. Other guys had speedos on their bikes, did not feel as fast, also stable to the point of not being much. On one of the Sabie?s got 80+ (as per the official reading) - then I felt much more unstable.

Message to all "suurgat" South Africans abroad. Just saw Barbara L's post above, the exact same post is also posted on another forum - professional pilots something. It seems some ex-SA'ers is on an all out effort to bad mouth SA whenever they get the opportunity. I have lived a number of years overseas in countries ranging from the affluent (Swiss) to the poor (Kosovo) and all have problems, but all have positive points as well. The one thing none of these countries have to offer is familiarity associated with having grown-up there. I will always think of SA in a very positive way since it is an integral part of me and I always look forward going back home. If you continue to use forums to link yourself to SA (for good or bad), lets face it you might have left the country but a large part of you is still there. All of you are grown-ups who made your own choices. Leave other people to make informed choices for themselves and stop whining from a distance that things changed unexpectedly. Change is part of live and with the credit crunch I bet radical and uncomfortable changes is likely around the corner for even affluent countries.

You can?t chose your name but you can surely choose your login name - I choose my name as a result of having it as a company login. Company policy was to use the first 5 letters of your surname and the first two letters of your name. Since then I have found it to be very convienent on the net since it is uncommon.

With reference to your photos - the scratch on mine was much less prominent with no noticeable deforming, only a mark and a slight abrasive feel on the fingers. Good luck - I think a bit of sanding can work, if you get oil passing through the seals then try to fill it, otherwise just let it be.

What seal ? The seal where the stancions enter the lower section - it is rubber can?t miss it

Happened to me once with a Bomber (Marzocchi) - although by your description, much less damage, still clearly noticeable and somewhat abrasive. The shock still worked fine, lasted till I sold it and was sold twice after that with zero problems (in fact one of the most hazzle free f/shocks I have had). Btw the marked become less noticeable over time, until it was hardly visible.

I been using tubeless tyres for the best part of 8 years and can only recommend them for all the same reasons as above. We did the 2005 Cape Epic and between six riders - zero punctures. Use tubeless in Balkans (very rocky terrain, virtually no thorns) for two years - since access to tyres was limited I had to have good security - Stans + tubeless did it! I only had one cut the entire time Converted normal tyres into tubeless a few months ago - even better than using tubeless specific (less weight, cheaper, less hassles to fit) yet some conditions (thorns and very rocky areas) a clear no-no. Currently I live in Brazil and the environment suits this conversion perfectly, would not do it in SA unless racing only.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

[ What is "linoleum oil" and what is the use of dipping your spokes in it, does it keep the cockroaches away????????? Used as an alternative for waxing wood (other uses - ask a carpenter). When it is applied it has the substance of oil, it takes long to dry but when it does it feels like "Lock Nut" out of the bottle, eventually it becomes brittle if left exposed. To built a wheel you dip the screw-in section in the oil, let it dry overnight hanging down with the screw-in section facing down and use it the next day to built your wheels.

I weigh 87 and used XTR hubs, laced with DT spokes (not butted) on Mavic 819 on two bikes in excess of 4 years without any servicing needs. One set is on a Santa Cruz Chameleon which were used for real hard riding over anything I managed to clear. Had them hand built by some British oke visiting Shimano during the time I got them. He even dipped the ends into linoleum oil and let it dry somewhat before screwing into rims, I knew since the rims never really manage to come clean. Bottom line: expert handbuilt using non-butted spokes on 32 hole rims should do it for you.

Just bought a team Merida - OOPS! Seriously - here in Salvador, Brazil a large number (at least 8 from the last three years) of serious cyclist are riding the Merida Team (reason I bought one since I know after service would be good). All have FSA cranks and not a single one has mention such a problem to me. Will ask them this week-end, also check my bike tonight. Exactly what should I be looking for? The bolt on the non-drive side becoming loose?

Pro?s choices are limited due to sponshorships. In XC racing low rolling resistance is a priority, yet in the front you also need cornering ability. The middle of the tyre (depending on foot print which depend to some degree on tyre pressure) influence rolling resistance the most. If you want to fit two different tyres, attempt to get a like pattern in the middle and for the front one more agressive/rigid knobbies on the side. For all-round riding I have found good results with Schwalbe - Nobby Nic at the front and Racing Ralph rear. Size - 2.1 If I can get some, and are interested in racing, I would try a Furious Fred at the back and a Racing Ralph Front. Size - 2.1 (maybe 2.25 front) In SA (and the associated rocks) use the race guard model - the sidewalls are flimsy on the Schwalbe?s

Well too late now, after resisting carbon for a number of years I purchase a carbon mtb some three months ago. And virtually everything is carbon (frame, fork, brakelevers, crank, etc.) - I though I might as well go big if I decide to go! Will let you know how it holds up - I am pessimistic but still loves the lack of weight and the way it rides.