vanniri

Any comments on the Geax Mezgal Any good in WC general and winter specific I am considering these for my stallion based in the vineyards!

"I have one great fear in my heart, that one day when they are turned to loving, they will find that we are turned to hating." - Alan Paton, Cry, The Beloved Country, Chapter 7

I used to work and live in Kosovo after the ethnic war. I agree with the sentiment of the last few posts - something big is being planned.

How do I show true shame for my actions of the past?

So Speedi, what type of work you guys do over there - not much of an economy in that part

4-Ti egg beaters New 9 speed Sram cassette (same as 10 speed)

Is Groot Lem 2 not some big shot in South African cycling? If he is, such a comment is a total disgrace and lacks any foresight. If his not, well I guess everybody can have an opinion.

For XC racing: Race = Saturday Week before: Last hard session - Tuesday Wednesday - Intermediate distance slow ride on tar (+/- same as your estimated race time) Thursday - passive rest (no bike) Friday - active rest (very slow riding), with some warm-ups and a few (3 - 5) steep short technical hills (getting the blood pumping). Drink 2 litres carb loading fluids fromThursday per day.

Agree with JB above. I am always on the lookout for people swopping their XTR skewers for sexy light weights like KCNC?s.

Check the new Merida 0.9, No rider weight limit and replacement including racing (check with local agent) I am 1,93cm and 84kg at best - no problems with carbon frames (currently 2008 Merida)

Big Ben: I had an SWorks M5 before and currently ride the Merida team as above. I found the Merida to be a truely awesome bike even compared to the SWorks - I know carbon vs alu might not be a fair comparison. I didn?t like Merida before - will probably buy the new 0.9 next. Your opinion?

Also have both...Fizik in SA and the SLR in Brazil. SLR XC is very solid and a racing favourite. Each time on my return to SA I cannot believe how the Fizik feels immediately more comfortable, on my return the SLR seems just more XC orientated. For stage/marathon - Fizik For XC racing/marathon - SLR

I thought we were a brainless bunch on the hub... After reading some of the comments on the site - and I am not referring to one?s were cyclists are targeted, the hub seems to be a few notches above.

1 - Dirt in BB 2 - Loose chainring bolts 3 - Pedals 4 - Seatpost at insert 5 - Seatpost at saddle Usual suspects in order of frequency

Says "shaft drive" on the tube connecting the front and back chainrings.

Buy tubeless, then thank the guy in Brazil for no more snake bites!

It is cheap, unless it should read ... per metre for 100mm wide ...

They keep the water cold from the fridge to the car - after then no noticeable difference (at least in Brazil). If I freeze it the bottom bracket gets all wet and as a result very dirty. If you have the same weather (very hot and humid), I will not recommend these.

It?s an Isuzu - just drill a hole

I have both red and black ones. I have always prefered using the red ones - felt more comfortable. Might be this temperature thing. Btw these bibs are only over rated if you spend less than two-hours in the saddle a day.

Depends - 7 days of doing nothing after very hard prolonged training or stage-racing can benefit the training effort from day 8 onwards. Do not expect top racing performance on day 8.

I only do Mtb For wax based I prefer Squirt - the chain is removed at least once a week, (Frequency depends on rain/mud), and boiled in water for 5 minutes. This disolves all wax and removes the debris lodge inside. Just wipe it with a rag after removing from the water. Relube - The chain is always lubed while removed from the gears, then dried in the shade for at least 30min before putting in back on. The result is an absolute clean chain and drivetrain. Cleaning the bike is like therapy - I will not recommed doing all of this if you do not have time. For oil base I prefer Finish Line. No reason other than it works in wet (Brazil wet).

Rather than buying this expensive and heavy tool - take a lenght of "blou draad" about 8cm in lenght, bend it at the middle, insert it in the same way as when using the Park tool, squeeze the end of the wire towards one another.