Look at it this way. Reba fork:R5000, XTR groupset:R12000, Wheels:R8000. So you are are getting the frame + RP23, the stem, handle bar, seatpost, saddle, grips, tires and trimmings FOR FREE.
Selling a different front and back tire is a concept. Many riders buy into it. I have tried a few combo's. -Crossmark at the back. Monorail front. -Killerbee/SB8 back. Nobby Nick front. -Intense systems2 back. Monorail/Nobby Nic front. -Race king back. Mountain king front. -Speed king back. Mountain king front. I cannot say that one of these combos are vastly superior to another. At the moment I have chosen the Monorail as a front and back tire. The reason? It seems to me that a skittish tire at the front will also break away more easily at the back. Most of our riding in RSA is XC/trail.
I have seen different ones on the shelves. Anything from cheap goo sold by Game (It just looks like a thick sludge) to the more expensive Stans, Geax and Joe's. The composition of these solutions seems to be in a few classes: 1. Latex 2. Ethylene glycol (similar to cheap anti freeze) 3. Thickening agents/fibers 4. Granules/bits of latex 5. Ammonia.(added to some of the latex solutions) I have also seen a few recipes for brewing your own sealant on MTBR. They usually contain something like this 1 part Latex mold builder 1 part cheap antifreeze 1 part thick automotive sealant(glycol) 1 part water. Some guys add glitter to enhance the sealing effect with bigger holes. My question: I can figure out how the latex(rub it between your fingers. It turns into latex pieces), fibers and even the glitter work. The alchemists brewing their own also states that the added ethylene glycol is to prevent the solutions from drying out. How does a solution with only ethylene glycol (like the one from Specialized) work? How does the "custard" thicken enough to seal a 5mm hole? Ethylene glycol is hygroscopic, so it stays "wet".
Why replacing? What broke? Or are you just itching? Do you want to go stronger and heavier or lighter and more flimsy? If you want the rim to last longer, get the ones with eyelets. There might be a small weight penalty, but in the long run you won't be sorry. As far as I could gather the rims on the DT 1540 are 4.1 DT rims. 425grams a piece. Aluminim nipples, aerolite spokes. Going for a rim like the 4.2d (400 grams) will not produce a weight weenie wheel. ZTR Olympic offers a lighter rim, but I am not convinced that they are strong enough for everyday use (eyelets?). An AM hub might be lighter, but a friend of mine has been left THREE times during races with the rear going into auto freewheel mode(refused to engage). The last time was a NEW hub. The lightest I will go for general use/marathons is a 240s with Revo spokes and 4.2d rim(or Mavic 717 if you like). Wheel set with total weight below 1.5kg.
The reason for this question only became apparent today. I won't be riding these. Less than 500km's. All tires are not created equal. Goodbadugly2009-02-07 04:57:11
One of the problems of a bushing is that it also (in time) eats away on the axle. The wear is not confined to the bushing. If you go for the bush-option, make sure you use top quality stainless steel axles. The aluminum used in some standard axles just won't last. Especially if it comes into contact with sand/dirt. Using a bearing confines the wear to a nondescript chinese bearing. I think I will stay with el cheapo bearings.
I had a Reba Race, a Reba team and a Fox RL 100. The Reba is a TOUGH act to follow. The Fox is certainly not better. Too sticky. A buddy of mine has a weeping Fox. From day one. Always leaking oil. I would say go for the Fox. PS.PLEASE pm me with the price of that useless second hand piece of crap Reba.
The bigger problem of full suspension bikes. More maintenance. Sealed bearings are designed to go round and round and round... Thus lubricating themselves. In the suspension systems they move up and down. Sometimes just a millimeter or so. Lubrication does not occur. The grease is driven out. Soon it is metal on metal. And a visit to the bike shop/Bearing Man. The bearings in my Anthem lasted 4000km. Last week I replaced a bearing in the suspension of my Blur XC. Lifetime guarantee on bearings? Maybe. But it is much easier to buy them at Bearings International for R10 each than to wait for the claim. (These bearings had done less than 5000km's). Check and replace when necessary. I have tried to extend the life of bearings with a drill. 1. Strip the suspension. 2. Get a dowel that fits snugly in the hole of the bearing. 3. Spin the bearing using the drill to "auto lube" it. 4. Refit the suspension. Not sure it was worth the trouble. If you train a lot, get a hard tail for that purpose. Less maintenance.
Have a Blur XC for races and marathons. Had to replace some of the bearings last week. High maintenance. I was wondering about a lightweight hardtail for training (surfaced and dirt roads). Less moving parts. Less maintenance.
I was wondering about the carbon forks advertised (Planet X advertisement) Anybody tried them or similar product? Comments? Would you recommend a carbon fork? (A third of the price and two thirds of the weight of a suspension fork)
Do what you must do. BUT my 2007 RM8 carbon frame cracked... If you are looking for at bling thing, go for carbon. Longevity? Go for alu. The weight difference will be minimal.
This topic has been covered many times by MTBR ect. There are many newer tires on the market. The Race Kings for example. They were successfull in Europe when tested by their racer boys. That does not mean that they will be accepted by our local layman (including me) or pro riders. They don't have sekelbos. Or pendoring. Or 41 degrees celcius. Or a guy called "Johan". They talk about wet roots. We don't see lots of that. Like Tarmac-GSTR said, the purpose of this tread is to rule out stuff people dislike and the reasons. My experience in the last few months: Tried the Speed King protection 2.1 as a back tire. Too skinny. (46mm carcass) Feels fast, but a "plastic" (Made in India) compound I disliked. Little grip. Maybe the 2.3 would be better. Been riding a Intense systems 2 as a rear tire. I like it. Rolls nice. Rubber compound I like. BUT I got a hole big enough to put my pinky in it on a fairly standard South African dirt road. Continental Mountain King Protection 2.2: Being foolish enough to try to get this non-tubeless tire to seal with Joe's (running it tubeless) is prooving to be a mission. Can't get it to hold air long enough to ride it. PS. If you don't like this tread or get bored, don't read it again. And don't be rude.
Anybody compared their setup with a "standard" setup like the one offered on the Competetive cyclist website? http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO
Are those Rocket Rons Tubeless? They are supposed to be blistering fast, but the low weight makes me think of a Nobby Nic I had with rather skinny sidewalls...
Most/all XC tires are for dry hardpack. Very few tires(except dedicated mud tires) do well in mud. Check out the British websites if you are looking for MUD tires. Mud is all they have. For the rest, stick to the tire you know.
