Goodbadugly

Castrol SLX motorolie. 'n Bottel van 1 liter sal jou ad infinitum hou.

I have a Reba Race on my one bike and a Sid team on the other (both standard QR). Weight difference is less than 100 grams. Both forks are set at 100mm. I have to tell you they are VERY similar. Set up very similar. Stiffness? On par. The only real difference between the two is that the Reba has the ability to be set up as a 120mm fork. If weight does not bother you, get a Reba. Better value for money. Colour options? That you will have to sort out.

Get the ones with the words Maxxis and LUST printed on the sidewalls.

Ditto

Seker een van daai 'special edition' een van 'n miljoen. Gemaak van strontium. Dit is 'n bykans onmoontlike prys.

I am talking MTB here. I do not have a road bike. The quick answer to that one is sealant. BUT I have been wondering about that one lately. The pros of liners are that they do not dry out like sealant(yes, I have seen the Stan's ad where they state that their sealant does not dry out like others...) or cause delamination (debatable). Liners and tubes might also be heavier in the rolling department. Changing tires are also less of a mess with tubes and liners. If you are a racer boy or are doing the Jozi 2 c, sealant and tubeless. For Joe Average, liners if you are puncture prone. If you are a snake biter, sealant and tubeless. But I am sure there are as many opinions as there are riders. Thus no golden rule.

MJ, jy wil krap waar dit nie jeuk nie. Volgens jou het die Maguras alles wat mens wil he in 'n goeie rem. Wat bedoel jy met "upgrade"? Koop vir jou vrou ander remme as die Strokers pla. Soos Elixers of Maguras. As jy Maguras koop, hoef jy net tipe remskoene as spaar aan te hou.

Dit was 'n eerste vir my. Ek het die 140 km op my mtb gedoen. Ten spyte van die laer ratte, het Boulders nog steeds 25 minute geneem. Wat my geeet het, was die laaste stuk van Kaapmuiden na Barberton. Dit is lekker dat dit opgebreek is in 3, maar ek sou dit verkies het om weer op my eie tyd weg te spring en aan te ry. Nie 2 ure te wag nie. (Soos die Crater Cruise).

Both are good. I have used both a lot. I recently got rid of one of my bikes and had to choose if I wanted to keep the RL100 or the Reba Race. This was a tough call. The RL100 weighs 100 gram less than the Reba. I kept the Reba.

You can drain the oil, BUT then you will have a pogo stick fork... Why do you need a new damper? Why not just get new seals?

If you need a bike for spares to build on a frame, check out the specials from obike. By the way, why not ride the Mercury as it is and then decide?

The biggest difference I could see between the two is that the axle of the one is black and that of the other is silver. Better bearings? I wouldn't bet my bottom dollar.

I had a set. Ja, they are fast. But I had to cut the bead to get the tires off the rim again. Good luck if you need to repair it on your Sunday morning ride by inserting a tube...

Looking at the cost and the added weight this is certainly one of those "want to" and not a "have to" additions to a bike. That said, I also like the idea of a DEPENDABLE gearbox/hub and the chain line of a single speed.

I saw a bike on a Sabie Experience with a broken belt. Not funny at all for that unfortunate soul. No quick fix.

Personal choice. I use triggers.

I have done 3 and my only repairs were a tire replacements. Last year a delamination (Maxxis replaced it FOR FREE) and a huge hole in my rear tire this year. No massages, no extras, no bike services. My partner did the Epic on a hardtail in 2010. I did the Sabie X on a hardtail in 2009. The mud ate my $$$.Goodbadugly2010-06-07 13:12:28

XTR... allotta extra money for a very small loss in overall weight. Personally? XT/XTR crank with SRAM X9/0 the rest.

I have seen them all on Epics. From 16kg Giant Talons to the most expensive Scott dual suss bikes. And they all (well... most) finished. In 2008 I got the idea that the most popular choice was Anthems. Last year Spesh Epics. This year I saw lots of lightweight hardtails. 'Breaking the bank'? If you can afford the entry fee, you can afford a XT level dual suspension.

The 240s free hub can be removed without tools. Pull hard (really hard if it has never been opened) on the cassette. Wiggle it from side to side. What might also help if you have removed the cassette, is to insert the tip of a SMALL flat screwdriver between the free hub and body. Carefully work your way around (wedging it off) without denting the aluminum. Clean it and reassemble it. I use oil (not grease) on the working parts. It should not rust, as it is made of stainless steel and aluminum.

I am not sure what to make of this 9 pages of rubbish. If a guy asks you the color of the fork you are trying to sell, would you also feel offended. Since the color has rarely been shown to enhance the speed of the bike. Or IS/post mount? If he really wants your second hand fork he can go and buy himself an adapter, right? If a hubber asks you the length of a stem you are selling, would you oblige? What is really the difference between a 85 and a 90mm stem? Or what tires are on the second hand mtb you are selling? Since tires are all roundish and (mostly) black, anyway? Rolling resistance is a myth, right? Or the chain? Since they are all made from the same steel? What about the cassette? Can you REALLY tell the difference between a SLX and XT cassette in shifting? Would you feel offended if Joe Slow asks you how many miles are on the wheels you are selling? Well built wheels will last a lifetime, right? So if the buyer asks you the weight, answer the flipping question if you want to make your sale. Remember that the MONEY is still in the pocket of the buyer. And you are the seller. You want that money. That is why you are selling... Some guys/gals like to weigh their components. Value for money is not really the consideration. Some like titanium. Not because it offers the best value for money. Nor faster. Are they all dumb assholes? Why not just a run of the mill alu. frame? By the way. The easiest/cheapest way to upgrade your bike is to buy stuff from weight weanies. They seem to "upgrade" quite often. And their stuff has not seen many heavy miles. Their bikes are not built for that. You can get all the specs off the internet. That also goes for cars. Have you NEVER asked the salesman of cars ANY questions about the car you are apt to buy? So. Just answer the question. What does it weigh? X grams. Or are you ashamed of the answer?

Sorry, you need a new cassette.

Sorry Rockid, but this is not a tread to place your family photos.

Verrry dangerous advice this..... be more specific' date=' grade of sandpaper, amount of sanding etc.[/quote'] I said clean, not heavy duty milling. By fine paper, I mean 600-1200 grit.

Clean the rotor with fine sandpaper.