Morwa

TX for all the replies. My cleat position stayed the same....since I'm using the same shoes and cleats relative to my old frame. So I doubt that to be the issue. My old stem had a 0° angle, where the new 100mm stem has a 6° angle which I piointed downwards. That could be a problem, but the height difference would be very small. I agree on the muscle balance issue, but would an "inbalance" occur in such a short tome period? Bergbok.... I'm thinking more in the line of..... ageing is not for "sissies".... in my case!

Hubbers, I need some advise please! I've changed my frame on me 29er, but the effective top tube length (horizontal) between the old and the new frame is identical. I've had my bike fitted by CycleFit so all the settings between the old and new frame is identical. The only thing that I changed was going from a 110mm stem to a 100mm stem on the new frame. The reason for this was, that I felt that I needed a bit more agility from the handlebars (steering). Since the change has been made, I'm struggling with knee pain (front of the knee, under knee cap) on my left knee. Could the stem change (10mm) resulted in this injury? I'm having difficulty to understand why the stem change could results in this sudden knee pain. I'm seeing a physio today to uderstand the injury, if it's the tendon or a joint injury.

Very nice indeed!!! Congrats! I've send you a pm.

TX Tankman for the reply and pic!

Tankman.... That's strange indeed! I've been on the Shimano cycling website this morning... M985 cranks only comes in a 40-28T/ 42-30T/ 44-30T setup. Spoke to my LBS this morning as well.... looking for pricing on XTR chainrings .... Hmmmm. LBS told me 40-28T is the "lowest" ration that will work on the M985 cranks. The XT's has 38-26T rings, but according to my LBS....will not fit the M985 cranks.

TX for the replies!

Hubbers, I'm currently running a 3x10 2012 XT setup on my 29er. Itching to upgrade my cranks to maybe a 2x10 setup. I see that the XTR M985 cranks only comes in a 40-28T/ 42-30T/ 44-30T setup. I dont have the legs for a 40-28T setup. Why no 38-24T like in the XT series?

This is one of my "dream" bikes.... One day for sure! And for 2013 Pivot is releasing a Carbon Mach 429.... http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/pivot-and-bh-new-2013-mountain-and-road-bikes-34736/

@Grondpad, Here you go.... 1. http://www.hongfu-bikes.com/html_products/29ER-FULL-SUSPENSION-263.html 2. http://dengfubikes.com/product.asp?id=36&classid=23 and an very good site for info: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/dual-suspension-chinese-carbon-29er-737952.html

I use SRAM 10 speed "master links" (black one's) on my XT chains all the time. No issue.... so far. Much easier than the stupid "chain breaker" to remove the chain.

Does the entry come with a complimentary bottle of Diemersfontein Pinotage? Then I'm in.....!

@Vinny The headset is not the issue here. The Hope reducer is basically a top hat shape, sized to fit onto your 1 1/8" fork crown, with an outside diameter sized to take your 1.5" crown race. You then use the 1.5" crown race from your headset over the top of the Hope reducer. Your headset will, effectively, see a 1.5" tapered fork when it's fitted. My main issue is the “play” between the reducer and the fork steerer. Like I mentioned there is about a 1.5mm gap between the reducer and the steerer, and I would have preferred a tighter fit. I just wondered if somebody else had the same issue?

Any hubbers with experience with this Hope Tapered 1.5 Reducer (crown)? I bought the reducer from a well known and respected online shop in SA. When I got the reducer, it had a natural aluminium color, and not the black color as posted on the site. So I Hope it is a genuine Hope product (pun intended). Anyway, last evening when I tried to install the reducer on my current 1 1/8” fork (after removing my current crown race) I was amazed to see how much “play” there is between the reducer and the fork steerer (almost 1 to 1.5mm). Isn’t the reducer supposedly be a “tight” fit on the steerer, the same as the crown race on the steerer? Would the gap/space between the reducer and the fork steerer jeopardize anything? The new 1.5” crown race is a fitting perfectly on the Hope reducer though. Any ideas?

It's now 8 degrees at 13:20 in the Vaal. We had a good rain shower. Tomorrow is going to be very cold and muddy!

TX Azonic! Indeed a beauty. Never realised stickers are so expensive!

I'm riding! Ok venue has changed from the hotel to showgrounds. Where can we pick up the numbers on Saturday? Also at the showgrounds or the hotel?

Coincidence indeed! Maybe even the same factory! We want pics Azonic!

Well said Iron!

Pics!

@pieterg I’m also struggling with all the options. Trail & error worked in the end for me.

TX for the replies. I got the Marzocchi one’s from CRC.

Hubbers, I need some wisdom from the Hubber community. I’m riding a 29er hardtail with a 2011 Fox F29 Terralogic fork (straight steerer, Kashima coating, 15mm thru-axle, etc.). It’s a very nice fork. I got a good deal on a new frameset (bum itched....the rest is history), but the new frame has a tapered steerer. So now I need a new tapered fork. I’ve looked around and narrowed my options to: 1. Rock Shox Sid XX 15mm and tapered steerer (about R6500) (not World Cup), or a Fox F29 FiT RLC 15mm tapered steerer (about R9000), or maybe a new tapered Terralogic (about R 10 000). Now for the questions: 1. Will I really feel the benefit of upgrading my current fork (Terralogic) to a Sid or Fox with a tapered steerer? Wouldn’t I be better off with running a reducer bushing in the tapered head tube and ride with the current straight steerer fork? 2. Which of the two tapered forks is the better option? I’m not a hardcore cross country racer, but rather a social rider doing about 150km weekly, and an official marathon race on a monthly basis. I could sell my “old” frameset with the Fox Terralogic, but I would like to keep the frame-fork combo....and maybe convert it to a single speed to play around with. Comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

TX for all the replies. @Maxxis, the lock-ring is on the brakes.... Our barrel connector on the shifters stripped.

TX for the clarification GBguy. I nerver knew the STX-RC range. My first MTB was a 1997 Gary Fisher Montare (XT components)..... a long time ago!

Hubbers I need some assistance please. A friend of mine has a 1993 TREK ST120. The bike has full 7-speed Shimano STX RC components (...apparently it was the XTR of 1993!). The barrel connector stripped on the right shifter while changing cables. And, the shifters and cantilever brake levers are integrated (like today's matchmakers on SRAM). If we can't source a "new" shifter/unit.... what can we do? Will a 8-speed cluster fit on the 7-speed STX RC hub? Can we still source 8-speed shifters and seperate cantilever brake levers? PM me please....