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christinejvr

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  1. I concur, Sir. After back-to-back 100 km rides over the weekend, I am seriously impressed with the vast improvement over my previous, much more expensive, saddle. Now to save up to replace the saddles on my other two bikes... Saddles are personal, but I think this works for me.
  2. Thanks for the info. It is because of all the choices that I have turned to the knowledgeable Hub! I guess you will only really know if a vest suits you after you have run with it for a few km's - and by then it is too late to change your mind. I will have a close look at the brands and models you have mentioned, i.e. UltrAspire, Osprey and Camelback.
  3. What are you guys do in terms of hydration on training runs? I am looking for a way to carry about 1.5L of water for up to a three hour run. Are you using a race vests or hydration belt system? Which make and model is working for you? Maximum comfort, with minimum/no bouncing, is non-negotiable. Thanks.
  4. Hi Jigghead. Thanks for the reply! Yes, I am enjoying the f2. No remorse! Since I got it from you, I have only been downloading files to WKO+ via a cable (offline procedure). Never done any synchronising or anything fancy. It is then definitely time for Garmin Connect.
  5. When starting my run at home, there are a lot of trees and I am also against the northern slope of Meintjieskop. Might be the problem. But sometimes my run starts off at University of Pretoria campus that is much more open but then it can also take a few minutes before locating satellites.
  6. Jigghead, as I am using your old Fenix 2, this one is for you, but perhaps somebody else can also help? Before a run, my Fenix takes ages to locate satellites. Somehow I don't think it is fun to stand around in the cold waiting at least 5 minutes before I can get going. DCRainmaker says something about setting your location on GarminConnect to speed up the process of finding satellites. Anybody that has done it and did it help? Thanks.
  7. Yes, I agree I might have a problem here. Thanks for the advice. I will try to get on a Wattbike for a proper evaluation.
  8. I have done a few rides with a PowerTap and Stages on the same bike, paired to two separate head units. With hard efforts the readings were very similar but during 'normal' riding the Stages gives about 20W less that the PT. I do not doubt the accurateness of Stages, but it did point out that my left leg is seriously lazy. Single leg drills, here we come!
  9. Thanks, Sepia. I have ordered the Marathon Dureme. Will give it a go.
  10. When fitted on ZTR rims, can the Schwalbe Marathon (Mondial/Dureme) tyres be run tubeless with sealant? Or is that not a good idea (not simple enough for the long road)? Does the tyres provide enough puncture protection, even on gravel roads of the Karoo?
  11. No, I think the 2000km interval is being too conservative. That would have been 5 services a year for me also, and I found 2 are more than enough. But then I mostly stick to tar when using the PowerTap.
  12. The PowerTap hub needs to be serviced like any other hub, but it has to be done at CycleOps because after the service the hub needs to be re-calibrated again. This is a quote from an email conversation I had with a guy from Bicycle Trading before I bought mine (two years ago): Service intervals all depends on the conditions you ride in, normally every 2000km if one rides on dry conditions, and depending on how often you ride in wet conditions this can vary wheel to wheel. If one can feel the bearings are rough then we normally recommend have the wheel serviced from us. Service cost is a flat R750 ( 4 x bearings, 4 x O-rings, 1 x seal, 2 x Silver oxide batteries, re-calibration)
  13. And don't forget the cost of servicing the PowerTap. I am spending R1000+ (including courier cost) twice a year on maintenance of PowerTap. Nothing like that for Stages.
  14. No, I do not know that I am actually loosing power, but it certainly feels like it. I can do what I want, but with all lengths of intervals my power is lower on the IDT than on the road. As we know, there are loads of variables affecting most measurable parameters during IDT vs. outside rides. Could extra upper body movement (leverage) on the road help to get more power through the hub, compared to sitting in a more fixed position on the trainer?
  15. I also consistently get lower power readings (about 10%) when on the IDT compared to on the road. Power output measured with a PowerTap (although different ones) for both IDT and outside. Can the lower readings on the IDT be caused by some loss of power at the point of contact between wheel and flywheel (because of a small degree of slipping)? I can sort of imagine this as an explanation for a hub-based powermeter, but not crank-based.
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