parabola

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e269/parabola85/DSCF1630.jpg

Wow couldnt imagine how these okes could go bigger than the last one, but these pics prove otherwise. So stoked to check out the DVD.

I changed to SLX shifters for this reason, the indicators are removable so you can run them inside or out. I like having my brakes on the inside so I only need one finger to pull them.

Imagine a rubber band between you and the top of the climb, smoothly accelerating you to the top. You want to start out slow and gradually increase your speed, so that you are peaking as you reach the top. Don't stop pedalling until you are completely over the hill. I also like to imagine words for the actions I'm doing, such as 'spin-spin-spin' while cranking up a hill. Keep your pedaling nice and smooth and soon you notice the difference! When I feel the legs burning, it helps to gear up two clicks and stand and pedal hard for a few seconds - stretches you out. Shift back up while you are busy sitting down and try not to break rhythm, practise this and it becomes second nature. Of course these are ideals and on really long hills, its usually just a slog to the top, but great to bear in mind.

I'm amped to join you guys at the next ride (not this week though unfortunately), and I will need a light. Will the next one be on the 8th July?

Ive broken several, and helped many riders fix theirs, so obviously its more common than you might think. Last time was an awkward front shift under load which caused the chain to become jammed between the chainrings and derailer, and thus distorted the flat plates horizontally, so that after a few hard pedals the thing just breaks. This situation is obviously more common if your gears arent setup properly, but when riding in rough conditions my shifting is often buggered anyway towards the end of a long race. Another tip is to make sure you remove any links that look distorted when you repair it, otherwise the chain may just break again 100m down the road.

Probably a good idea to practice breaking and repairing an old chain before you need to do it during a race. It's not so lekker to figure it out in the heat of the moment, and the powerlinks can be tricky.

I would say that use the lockout on long, smooth climbs, where you will be standing and pedaling hard. On loose climbs if you keep seated and unlocked then the suspension will absorb the bumps and maintain rear wheel traction. Goes without saying that on tar/smooth hardpack you can lock it out. If your shocks (front and rear) are properly adjusted for your weight, then you should only need lockout quite rarely, unless you are a serious racer. Its as simple as using it when the suspension feels too soft and you are bobbing around. Thanks JB and tom893 for the interesting information.

Its typical of the HUMAN RACE in general. With the internet giving everyone with access to a PC the ability to broadcast internationally anything they like, selective filtering becomes a necessary learned technique to extract anything useful.

Definitely not something to overlook. I was using shimano XTR rotors with juicy 5's and they never felt quite right. Swopped them for avids when I changed hubs and the brakes sharpened up very noticably. the Shimano rotors are thicker than the G2 Avids. Also bear in mind rotors like pads also need some time to bed in before they start working properly. parabola2010-05-19 04:41:25

Wow that is one sweet ride! "Half inch of carbon up front. ?We couldn?t break it in test lab. Casing a jump? Forget it, the jump will break first!?"

What a great looking bike. Stealth black.

In the "classified" drop down menu, the list shows two sections, "for sale" and "wanted", with a header for each. However the headers are hotlinked to a 'void' statement, causing a 404 error if you happen to click on them. My opinion is that these should rather link to the relevant classfied section, or not link to anything at all. I'm sure there are loads of people who will click the headers accidentally.