-cK-

The old back road to St Helena bay that used to be gravel has also been fully tarred to give you an alternative route in as well

Depending on the weight of the actual thing being mounted, I have my doubts on the strength of that part with the layers printed like that. I would personally opt to rather have that printed on its side. Any hard knock (hitting a pothole or curb) could easily break those 3 ridges on those adhesion layers. Printing it on its side will make is a "continuous structure" and the layers will be in the direction of the fastening bolt of the mounted counter part. Might cost printing with supports and post print clean up and some imperfection on the bottom but I would personally take functional strength over looking pretty any day of the week. Loosing a gopro because that broke is not going to go down well and I doubt the person that printed it will replace your gopro because their part failed. Just my 2c

If you want to avoid the main road you could try this as alternative which would take you through the residential area and down the road next to Builders. Depending on how late you are planning to ride but that might help avoid any of the busy and high foot traffic spots.

Just looking at how force might be applied to when you put your arms in those arm rests the force is at multiple angles so not a straight down force. Meaning there will be a sideways force to those so upright printing is a big no no and printing it flat will help but there is still a concerns with where the parts link that could make the part split on the flat printed seams as well. Personally I would not print something like this as with my limited knowledge of material fatigue and enginering I see no good way you can print a functional part like this with any guarantee it will not break on a print layer at some point and if that gives you will be taking a noise dive. A lot of the force will be on the bolts but I would not trust this on a printed part. There is a reason these parts are machined out of solid blocks of metal. This is just my opinion as I have never printed Nylon parts as my printer is not capable of printing that filament but from what I've learned on my PETG prints those would be my concerns.

Out of curiosity how do the bars fit to those? Besides the recommendation to go with a Nylon option I'm still just thinking about layering adhesion/strength for that because that is going to be kinda important if you want to get that printed. Reason is that any print is weakest if force is applied to it in its print layer. e.g. if you take the below image and you were to bend the upright print like a pencil that thing will snap like a twig.

https://puresavage.co.za/product/saddle-rail-mount-for-garmin-varia/ That's the kit we did for the garmin but if I understand you correctly the clip-in mount is 90 degrees offset to the garmin spec.

Nozzle 230 Bed 90 Infill 100%

Speaking of destructive testing... Reminds me when I tested this part I printed for our friend @Pure Savage 😅 https://youtu.be/24QQp7EFl3k Also brings me to the 3rd important thing that will determine strength and that is structural design/reinforcements 😉

Print material and print orientation plays a big part in part strength. My go to filament is PETG and you need to identify the main directional force on the part and try to adjust your print orientation so that the main force is not in the direction of the print layers. Also know there is a limit to what you can achieve and do with a 3d printed part when it comes to functional parts.

Think the draw is dependent on your temp etc. but the bulk of the high power draw is when heating the bed initially, printing use less power to just maintain the temps. Think the element in my hotend is like a 40w element and I will need to check again but peak draw is closer to 150w on initial bed and hotend warmup on my PETG print settings and then drops considerably when printing to like 50-ish watt. Some math and you can McGuyver a UPS to last at least one loadshed session so to not waste a print 😉 when Eskom comes a knocking, the resume on power failure a is a bit of an hit and miss especially if the power goes out for long and the hotend looses its Z point.

Yes you you are correct in my SOC was high. This was when I was still "locking out" my battery during peak time to save max capacity for evening loadshedding and running on battery from 02:00-sunrise. What I basicaly noticed was if I was at 100% SOC and in battery priority mode everything ran of AC but if I was in Priority load and the SOC was 100% the inverter would drain at about 1% per hour so at 2:00 I would end up at like 92% eventhough the SOC was set at 100% which led me to make the assumption that the inverter is powered from the battery if in priority load mode vs if it is in battery priority as the SOC will not drop untill I started using it during loadshedding 🤷‍♂️.

Yes that last little piece of pie crumb one can't get rid off. A connection fee to a broken network...😔 You can try 10 as well think that is the lowest you can set it via the touch screen or test it for a day at 0 perhaps. Only saw one little blimp of a feedback 0.06 in the last 4 days (had those random feedback's even with trickle feed set at 20 🤷‍♂️) Side note I'm now running Priority load 99% of the time. When in Priority load the inverter seems to run off solar and battery at night if on Battery Priority the inverter runs on "solar" in the day if there is excess available and AC power at night. My personal observation and deduction.

I set mine to 0 as it was at 20w. I asked the installer why and the reason was primarily if you have a Pre Paid meter it helps prevent the thing going into tamper mode so they tend to just set it at 20w by default. Seeing as I don't have one we just set it to 0 as a test and well it works for me. I have not had an issue with it set to 0. No trickle feed nor feedback to grid as it set to Zero Export. As you stated if that is set to anything more than 0 you will never have Zero Export. 20w would mean 14units per month minimum on my account. I'm at that point that if Eskom can't provide constant power why should I pay them anything for nothing 🤷‍♂️ Oh and I also made sure with our Municipality I won't get nailed with some silly charge if my usage is 0units in a month.

Loving the zero Eskom import the last 3 days since my upgrade... Also busy with intergrating the inveter sensors to HA now that I've found a solution to pulling in the sensor data so I can use it as parameters for my other smart devices like my geyser switch. Ultimatly want to drop the geyser on essential supply and just set some parameters to ensure if it is loadshedding and there is enough SOC and PV the geyser can be turned on despite it being loadshedding and only if it is a 💩 day and the SOC and PV is to low wait for Eskom before turning it one...

This would be my ideal setup as well I think. Basically the max you can do with a single 5kw inverter without adding MPPT's to directly charge the batteries or another inverter to the mix if my understanding is correct. You can add more batteries but the load distribution and recharge time will take a nose dive without adding additional charging capacity from the PV side. Will see how I manage with my upgrade and see if I will need to add-on to the system next year or not.