TAAHIRWP

Oh i see.... How wide is it?

Where you using them? front / back? looks very Niiiicee.

HAHAHA! classic!

I have "what is available on the shelf" pressure. haha!!! Okay - maybe i was just hoping someone was going to say the TK II is awesome and much better than the HD. Then moving away from Schwalbe would be easiererer. Maybe im not leaning the NN as much as it could be. But it has been doing well for me in the winter wetness. in terms of grip that is. Pacestar yes ...on the front. Shifting the Pace 2.4 NN outback im anticipating the ride will feel quite "draggy" when acceleration is needed, not speed. But pretty sure the Nic will turn into a Rock Razor out back pretty quickly, so problem solved i guess.

any TK experience...? what about MK at the back and stick with NN front?

Only trailstar, pacestar option. I know the Nic Pacestar wears quick at the back, or atleast my previous one did. if i go HD trailstar then - then that means 2.4 Chunky Nic out back

Okay so im in a bit of a pickle... i am able to get an HD; Mountain King II or trail king. Currently have Nobby Nics 2.4 on the front (Omega : i couldnt salvage the damage, so unlucky and sad at the same time.... You should know what im referring to.. But thanks a million though) So what to get? HD is the default choice, but but but... anyone.?

expensive but; slope stabilisation, anchoring or retaining wall..... ...Horses for courses i suppose... also not like the funding for an operation like this is readily available. but ya, im no expert.

So will a geotechnical engineer be doing an assessment /report for this specific site at tokai? Would be nice to know what he has to say.

Just watched the vid posted by Headshot. Those rocky switchbacks at the top kind of reminds me of the switchbacks at Delvera farm, Which totally go the better of me. Made me feel like a complete novice. These would be good to practise on!

Just another reason to be a Trail n Tar fan! Still working out in the Overberg, but when I'm settled in Cape Town I'll be there!

Shot Omega, Option 2 for me works out perfectly...

What is the turnout like for these courses do you have any idea? Will contact T&T in the near future. it Helps knowing whats What in Bikeland. Well, for me it would be useful. Especially if im in the middle of a extremely steep 1km climb and rock'n it, when half way through i see an oke in the bush with a mechanical problem. My stopping to assist would be MUCH more helpful rather than stop to talk a lot of .... Who cares about stopping in the middle of a climb anyway, its not like im getting timed or anything. :ph34r:

Okay, I see you're based in JHB. Sorry bud, im out then....

Forks, wheels and brakes... Each of these would need its own focused course i know. But i wouldn't mind signing up if i am going to be taught exactly how to tackle my fork, wheels, brakes etc...

Yoh!! that guy is sooo good!!

Bike has an upgrade since this photo was taken i think, it now has a Suntour Durolux front fork. Oh, the bike was in a room... in the house.... like a bedroom... when it was stolen.

Maxxis MTB 26inch tyres locally? 2.35 or bigger? is this possible... at decent prices? ARDENTS HIGH ROLLER II anyone?

Not going to make it for this one.... :( :(

so in terms of "bite" or modulation not that i know what modulation is, still equivalent to elixir 7 and slx?

Just out of curiosity Formula RX is equal to which Shimano brakes and which Avid brakes?

Shot for this!!! i've got the pad spreader thingy... i will be attempting all of the above later this evening. (thats if its not too cold in the garage.. Brrrr)

Thanks for this. Rotors are straight yes, Well 98%. When aligning the caliper of my RX's at the back, is there a "nic" to it? what i mean is should the space on side be bigger than the other. Say eg. space between rotor and pad on the outer side of the bike is smaller than the rotar to pad space on the wheel side of the bike, make any sense? or should i just try and line it up centre? i had it centred, but here i am again. The reason im asking if one side should be favoured is because i am wondering if there is any "flex" in the brake area when i weight the bike. As i mentioned it squeals when climbing.. seated. Standing sometimes alleviate the pain squeal. also, had the brakes since new and never bled them yet (say 3months now). the bite at back is very sensitive so maybe you are right about having too much fluid. I'll check out some youtube vids first before going to my LBS.

I have been avoiding the whole strip down and sandpaper buzz. I did notice that the rotors bend easily, had then straightened lastweek at my LBS. The sound only went away for one ride, the next day it was back again. I did try the caliper adjustment before, but will give it another shot. Usually I loosen it, shine a torch down the caliper and get it set up like that. Will try the "lever" way. Just to be clear, is there no way I can adjust the pads or make then retract just a wee bit? Also what sits on the inside of the silver plate (or red) with the formula logo printed on it, found on the outer side of the caliper?

I have formula RX brakes with 180mm rotors, assuming it is 2012 because it came as a standard issue on my bike(2012 model). Having come from tektro, juicy 3's and elixers I am really enjoying my formula's. The rear brake bites way quicker than the front and has very little space between rotor and pads. Talking 1.5mm max each side, maybe less. The front brake feel like ABS, haha! Comes to a dead stop on steep mountainous terrain after ±2secs. The space between rotor and pads in the front is much more and adjustment is easy. Also the "bite feel" margin (I don't know how else to describe it) on the front is bigger than at the back. The rear can lock up pretty quick. Front allows me more play. LOVE these brakes! But now I need help, my rear brake squeals like a mouse trapped in a bucket A LOT when climbing (mostly when I'm seated). I find myself very lightly pulling the rear lever in effort to kill the squeal! I suspect the pads are too close to the rotors at the back. Can this be adjusted?