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Wimmas

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Everything posted by Wimmas

  1. It differs from person to person but there are a few basics. You want your cadence in the 80-100 range if possible (the number of revolutions your crank does in 1 minute). Newbies tend to ride in a gear that's too high and quickly wear themselves out and drain their energy. You shouldn't be spinning at a cadence of 120 the whole route but also not look like you're doing a Sunday drive through the neighbourhood. Shift gears as you would with your car. If you slow down or stop, gear down before hand or while slowing down. When you pull off the bike is in a light enough gear to move forward as quick as possible. Always look at the trail a few meters infront of you. If you're on a decline and approaching an incline, especially if it's sudden, shift down before hand. Try and avoid shifting on the front chainrings will doing an incline and even if you shift on your rear cassette while on an incline, try and keep as little as possible tension on the chain when shifting. If your chain is under a lot of tension on an incline and you shift, you can hear the pain your chain is going through as well as the teeth on your chainrings and cassette, so when shifting on an incline, pedal a bit slower (remove some tension). Then your components will last longer.
  2. Don't stress about it. It's not as difficult as some people make it to be. You'll be fine
  3. Right. Convenient and easy to remember (RR)
  4. - Take rim and clean it properly - Rap with Stan's rim tape - Make hole for and insert tubeless valve - Pump tyre to see if it inflates - Insert 1.5 cups Stan's sealant - Inflate tyre to 3+ bar and ensure it seats correctly (tyre bead does not want to go over rim but hooks where it's supposed to) - Shake and rotate wheel a million times - Ride bike and ensure tyre pressure is high the first few rides Enjoy!
  5. I have ZTR Arch...No problems so far but I weigh 80kg and not 110kg
  6. I recently started using Q-in-one (the liquid form of Q20) and it shuts the chain up for quite a while, much longer than the white lighting wax I used. The chain does get dirtier but cleans off easy. I guess there are trade-offs with lubing.
  7. 14km outside Potch on the R53 (Parys road) on the left hand side. As you go underneath the big power cables, around 1km further there's a gravel road on the left that you turn into, it splits in 3 but there's a board that says Tarentaal Track & Trail, drive around a further 4km on the gravel road then you get to the farm. It's a decent route. There are 2 - one is lekker technical/rocky and the other is not so much. But even if your wife wants to ride the not so technical route it's cool as you can see each other no matter which route you are on cause it keeps joining and splitting. Cost for the day per person is R30. It's a privately owned farm but anyone is allowed to ride there. Just notify the owner before hand. You may phone him (JD) on 084 500 4221 or Paula on 082 555 3760. Definitely worth it if you live in this side of the world.
  8. Tarentaal Track & Trail just outside Potch
  9. IMHO I used to have a decent 26". Loved it but my problem was that after a 30km race my arms/hands/shoulders were stiff and sore, but like really sore. Got a 29er on my own will (no influence from hub, friends etc) and immediately felt the difference in smoothness/softer ride which I liked. Felt a bit hesitant in the beginning due to forums saying that your turning ability etc will be influenced. I turn just like I did with a 26", climb hills just like a 26", go faster down a hill than a 26" and do anything technical just like with a 26". So for me, I will never ever go 27.5"/650b. I also don't agree with the k#k they post on these articles. They go too deep into the investigation. Many of the things they test aren't even noticed by novice/intermediate riders. The only noticable difference is the softness/smoothness of the ride between bikes. The rest is BS. I think that no matter what your choice or any wise words, the choice remains with each unique individual. What you prefer and satisfies your needs. If you're happy doing the Cape Epic with a 24" rigid fork BMX/junior bike then go for it, as long as cycling makes you happy. I won't ever bash someone who rides a 26" or 650b bike. I respect everyone's preference.
  10. A 29er is not faster and the tyres for the bike basically cost the same as the 26". It just provides a much softer, smoother ride. I had 2x 26" bikes before I went 29er, they were good bikes but I won't ever go back to a 26" and I'm only 1.69m tall.
  11. Hi Gripen_85 The prices you received on those bikes are too high and you could get them for cheaper. Currently, it would be a good idea to look around at 2013 stock clearance sales as you might get a good deal somewhere. 2014 models are/will be more expensive than 2013 bikes due to exchange rate fluctuations and increase, so you will likely recieve a worse spec'd bike if you go for a 2014 model. Here are a few bikes that fall into your price range and I reckon are worth looking at: 26" 2013 Momsen AL126 http://www.momsenbik...=175&Itemid=743 2013 Silverback Spectra 2.0 http://www.silverbac...spectra2_13.htm 27.5" 2014 Momsen AL651 http://www.momsenbik...242&Itemid=1052 29ER 2013 Momsen AL129 http://www.momsenbik...=118&Itemid=646 They are all good (hydraulic disc brakes etc), but I would personally go for the 29er or maybe even the 2014 Momsen AL651. Furthermore you could look at Merida Matts TFS 300 or 500, Titan Trail etc.
  12. Here's the best combo for a budget like your's: Shimano M446 brakes and Suntour Raidon air fork. I don't think it'll cost more than R3k and are good components
  13. My bike came standard with I thnk 630/640mm bars and I've never struggled with handling. Never hook a tree branch or vehicle mirrors. I think it's personal preference and whether you go wider or more narrow, it'll take time getting used to. A wider or more narrow bar is not going to make you a better rider, it's all about what suits your needs/riding style. I personally know someone who actually cut his bars much shorter due to hooking trees etc and he rides like a pro
  14. Great! I've also only had great experiences with Stan's. It always does what it claims and imho the best sealant on the market.
  15. Nah then screw it. I'm not going to buy a new wheel or a new hub and spokes and pay for wheel build just to be able to get a 15mm thru axle fork. Then I'll just get a 9mm QR REBA. I don't even weigh 80kg's so the QR will be fine
  16. IF I need to buy a different hub, will I also need to get new spokes or would my current spokes fit the new hub? Are these HOPE hubs any good: http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/hope-pro-2-evo-front-hub-32-hole
  17. Ah okay so it comes with the fork, that's good news. So I can just buy the hub. Will hear from my LBS if the SRAM hub can convert or not, then I just need to get the adapters?
  18. Hi peeps I'm getting a new fork in a while and was wondering if it won't be worth converting to 15mm thru axle up front at the same time. I currently have 9mm QR infront with the following specs: ZTR Arch EX 29er wheel SRAM MTH-406 hub http://www.sram.com/...ts/sram-406-hub I'm looking at getting the REBA w/15mm thru axle So I should probably get a new hub for the front. So let's say I get an XT hub just for this discussion's purposes. I see they sell the 15mm hubs without the the 15mm thru axle. So does this mean I'll need to get the hub, like this http://www.buycycle....product_id=7216 and still buy this http://www.buycycle.co.za/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=4542 and ay for a wheel build? That will then cost over R1000 which I will consider if it's worth it?
  19. I had a Deore 8 Spd on my previous bike, altus front derailleur, acera shifters, can't remember what cheap crank but anyway it worked well. I had nothing to complain about. If you clean/lube your components regularly it would work like a dream. And from what I gather you are no bike expert so I reckon you won't notice the difference between a XTR and Deore derailleur so don't waste your money on a "lighter/fancier" derailleur, it won't benefit you at all.
  20. Hi guys So I'm getting the Galaxy S4 this week. Saw that one can buy the heart rate sensor strap from Samsung's site but it costs like R1000. I found a local site that sells HR sensor straps @ R349. Apparently it works with iPhones and Android devices. Now I would like to use the phone as a tool while exercising to check the calories expended, HR monitoring etc. Do you guys think this strap will be reliable? I would also like to know what app is used on android devices for this, or will the Samsung have a built in app for it? http://www.electroma...op/?q=node/1557 Thanks
  21. The best bet will be to obviously always take a drive to the person who has the bike and meet up in daylight in a safe place where police/security are close by, and take a friend or two along with some form of protection whether it be pepper-spra or a gun. Then have a look and if you're happy take it. Never, ever, ever, ever jsut transfer money into anyone's account and have it shipped unless you personally know the person or it's a legit bike shop like buycycle or CWC. And if a deal seems fishy, then leave it before something ugly happens
  22. I'm 1.69m and ride a medium 29er (Momsen). You'll defintely be a small. Maybe even an XS but I think a small will do. I did the same a month ago - 26 to 29er - very pleased I must say. It's the same bike, you just ride softer/smoother. People said your turning ability etc will be influenced, well like I said, to me it's the same thing. I make turns just like with my 26, no problem. Just a very smooth/soft ride.
  23. http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-ultegra-6700-10spd-groupset-grey http://www.rushsportscycling.com/Store/Buy/Shimano/Ultegra-6700-Groupset.aspx
  24. You could get your frame resprayed with new decals, bar tape and put on a 10spd ultegra groupset for R10k.
  25. My opinion on this matter: Keep your bike. If it's scratched/worn, strip down the frame, sand it down and get it resprayed with decals etc. If all components are still in good working condition then good, if not then upgrade them. Regrease/lube all components when putting them back. Put on some new bar tape and your bike will look and ride like new. Maybe sell your current groupset and get an ultegra groupset. It's better than selling your trustworthy bike and getting a 2nd hand bike that might be worn etc. Believe me if your bike is resprayed with new decals, some new bar tape and an ultegra groupset, it will be better than buying something with a tiagra groupset. Hell you could even buy a new 10spd 105 groupset.
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