Wimmas

Bought my bike towards the end of November 2020 and immediately converted to tubeless with stans sealant. Had to top up around mid April this year, which is about 4.5 months. However, I think I pushed it a bit. The wise thing would be around every 3 months. If you take your wheels off, shake it and listen if you can hear sealant. This will give you an indication as well.

Even if the tyres are not Tubeless or Tubeless Ready you can still convert it to tubeless. I have done this many times with success. The only thing is the sidewalls are usually paper thin, so the first sharp rock you hit with the side wall it will tear and the tyre will be worthless. All you need is rim tape (R40 per tyre from Cycle Lab), two tubeless valves and some sealant of your choice. Very easy to do. Alternatively get tyre liner and tubes which are slime tubes and you are good to go, but this is the heavier option.

I am very familiar with this shop as I live in the area. I do not set foot in that store. I will rather drive to Cadence World in Krugersdorp. Had one or two bad experiences with them on small repairs and purchases and decided long ago they will never ever receive my support even if they are the last cycling shop in existence. Their operating hours are inconvenient, no items have pricing on it as each customer receives their own unique "special" price per item.... One of those "let me speak to my boss and get you a good price" type stores. Then it is an item which costs R400 in any other half decent store, but they tell you it is R600 at normal RSP, but for you it is R450. Once bought a cassette removal tool there. First turn it broke. That was the final straw for me. I have very little faith in their competence. Will not let them touch my bike. A work colleague took his bike there for a full service and had endless problems with it when he got it back from them. In the West Rand, just go to Cadence World.

Smoked for 10 years from age 17 to 27. Stopped through vaping and still vape to this day 4 years later. More of a hobby now than anything else as the nicotine content in my juices are so low. Never crave nicotine anymore. Feel great and performance on the bike has improved ten fold. Never feel anything wrong with my chest. Most of my cycling mates do not know I am an ex-smoker.

Agreed! Did the small mountain and day 1 was proper climbing. Never seen so many push their bikes or take a rest half way up or at the top. Second day was very fast paced. Had a great weekend in Clarens with quite a few G + T's with a lot of good food!

Also going! Coming from JHB and was thinking of taking N3 to Villiers, then R26. Never travelled to Clarens before and I drive a small car. If this route is a mess, please let me know which alternatives are better. GPS wants to take me on N1 to Vanderbijlpark, Sasol, Heilbron, Petrus Steyn and then at Reitz on R26.

Both my bike and my GF's stands in our room. I use hers to hang my towel over. Dries quickly

I have no experience with Shimano 12 spd. Had 11spd and it was great. My current bike came with a GX 12 spd setup. Took time and patience to properly index the gears but 1300km later and not a single issue. Only thing I hate about SRAM is how expensive the cassettes are. Other than that I have no desire to switch my setup to Shimano 12 spd

I went from a 2018 RS Recon 100mm to a 2020 FOX Rhythm 34 120mm....one massive difference. I am absolutely sold on the FOX.

Eina. Bike shop at fault in my opinion. If you want to then take it up with them. Might end up being a back and forth fight. Indexing to perfection is time consuming, takes patience and testing. Most shops won't go through the trouble like you would. However, the most important thing to check when indexing a RD is that the chain does not jump between the spokes and the cassette. Everyone in the cycling world knows this due to the damage is can cause.

36t with 10 back feels too small on flats? Then you are flying 45km/h+ on flats, I personally do not know anyone who does this on a mtb for prolonged periods. Either go 34t or get a 10-52 cassette.

10t is available in SRAM / Sunrace / Shimano. Just need the right freehub/body. On Shimano microspline, and SRAM an XD driver. I do not have a cadence sensor so cannot give you accurate figures. Maybe I must just clarify my point before the thread turns into a circus. 1. I injured my knee with low cadence / high power input through pedal strokes when I wasn't fit enough to do so.. I was off the bike for a few years and thought I was a hero the second time I got on it again. I was unable to ride more than 30km for a year after that due to the left knee pain which got worse the further I rode, and I had to see a biokineticist for around 6 months to help with the pain and gaining strength back through exercise. I realized, and it was obvious, lower cadence and higher power input made my knee hurt after this. This is why I had to learn to ride on a higher cadence with less power input. 2. I see many guys on here suggesting they spin out on 1x12 setups with anything less than a 34t chainring. I simply cannot believe it. It is like when you are at a braai....Every guy is the best driver, the best braaier, has the hottest chick, car's the lightest on fuel etc. Are we talking about a road bike or a mountain bike here??? The last time I checked, when doing your normal XC / trail style riding, you normally average anywhere from around the 14km/h - 22km/h mark per ride from start to finish depending on your fitness. The time on the trail when you will exceed these speeds and spin out, is probably less than 5% of your ride. So why the fuss about spinning out? This is why I commented that I can comfortably spin at 50km/h with a 32t, 10 - 50 setup. My legs still turn and I still apply pressure down on the pedals at these speeds, but this is on 5% or less of my ride. I am by no means suggesting I ride at 50km/h from start to finish. Once again, why the hell are so many okes fussing about spinning out??? Where do you ride that you spin out so much during your XC / trail outing? Or are there just so many pro riders on this forum. 3. With regards to cadence, no cadence sensor so just using the omnicalculator: On my setup, 50km/h will require a cadence of 97rpm. On a 34t and 11t back, it will require 100rpm. However, considering this cadence is only required (If ever) for very short distances or periods of time, it is not a problem at all. Just cannot believe so many people claiming they are spinning out. So you spin out on 2% of your ride, what is the issue? Do not discourage another from going for a 32t if he needs help with his climbing. The guy won't spin out for 98% of his ride, and unlikely for the other 2% as well. I do a club ride every Saturday and most of the time my cadence is higher than the majority of the other riders. No cadence sensor to prove it, just my eyes looking at how fast my legs are spinning versus the rest of the bunch. Trust me, my knee has no issues with maintaining a higher cadence. It will have issues if I ride at a lower cadence with a high power input. This being for normal speeds during a club ride (Around 16km/h - 17km'h average over 50km's), not 50km/h over 50km, just 50km/h for the short periods / distances during the 50km club ride.

I would love to maintain a 50km/h speed throughout my ride .... Maybe in my dreams.

Don't have a cadence sensor, just a Garmin Vivoactive 4 I ride with, not really sure how accurate it is but it has good reviews. Just like the speedo on any car there is probably always some room for error. I am used to higher cadence due to a knee injury I picked up in 2018. Ever since then I ride at a higher cadence to put less pressure on the knee. Slowly been building up strength to ride at a lower cadence and putting down more power, but obviously do not want to rush it and screw up the knee again. Makes sense. The 10t should benefit you big time. The jump for me from my second lowest to 10t does feel significant. Checked my last few rides at various trails (Hennops, Avianto, Cradle Moon and Northern Farm) and I haven't exceeded 44km/h at any of them, with the majority being in the region of 39 - 40km/h max speed.

This is very interesting... Did you run out of gears on tar or gravel? 10t or 11t back? Running 32t round with 10-50 back. Checked this weekend on tar and I can comfortably spin at 50km/h with this setup. On gravel I have never come close to spinning out. Guess the trails here in Gauteng don't allow it or I am just a useless rider...

I entered for the Amohela Classic in Clarens on 24-25 April. Two day event. Went for the smaller event as I have never been in Clarens so my girlfriend and I thought we'd make a getaway weekend of it and it's overdue to have a break, hence I entered the smaller event cause if I entered the 60/50 I would be too tired and sore to enjoy the little town. Feel the fees were reasonable. R790... Day 1 43km and day 2 40km, plus you receive a medal and goodie bag worth R400. Looking forward. The larger event is just over R1k, still reasonable for a two day event. Seems like it's the exception and agree with the OP, some races charge excessive amounts. Wonder why...

By the sound of it the OP is less concerned about recovery or nutrition for energy and more looking for something which tastes better than water while on the IDT. In that case just find something with zero to very low calories to drink while on the IDT. Not sure if you still find Sweeto, but that could work as you require very little to get a flavourful diluted drink, and I think it contains very little calories. Everyone will have their opinions but I can guarantee you, most important of all is having and maintaining a healthy diet consistently. Then you will rarely ever require any supplements.

I have Stans Crest S1 which are 23mm with a 2.35 front and 2.25 rear, on a dual sus. No issues on either. They ride great. I weigh 72 - 73 kg, front around 1.3-1.4 bar and rear 1.6-1.7 bar when riding MTB. Also in JHB and ride Cradle Moon often. Did blue, red, yellow the other day at those pressures and 100% fine. Did Northern Farm red last weekend and even with all the roots and those same pressures, no issues. My opinion, 25mm should be fine.

I can vouch for Maxxis Crossmark II, Recon Race and Ikon. Had them all and no issues. Width I'd suggest at least 2.2

She definitely is, but she is not really using it as often as I hoped. It is a bit of a battle to get her into fitness/exercise.

I have a 32t with a 10-50 cassette GX setup and it is perfect for me. I have not found myself spinning out on any MTB ride. Road yes, but who cares.

Not a geometry expert so won't comment on that. Spec wise you are getting an excellent bike compared to what most rivals offer at the price. I would not hesitate getting this bike. 130mm travel on that Fox 34 combined with the dropper will give you plenty of fun descending rides, obviously depending on what type of riding you plan on doing. I have a 120mm FOX 34 Rhythm Float performance and in my experience with it I only have love for it and good things to say about it. Have had lots of fun with it and it's been handling everything I throw at it.

Mentioned many times but I have to again, probably the most overused as well. Shock or front shocks.... Referring to a fork. Ek kan nie....

Also have Crest S1. I thought on Crest MK3 cracks If mine decides to go I will get Lyne components. Just a question, would insurance cover this or do they see it as wear and tear?

Supply and demand.... Economics 101. I bought one of my bikes, a 2018 Scott Scale 960 for R14k at the end of 2018 brand new. Sure I can sell it at close to purchase price now. The world is disfunctional at the moment and stock is running low. Remember the exchange rate has a ripple effect. You do not notice a drop immediately, it comes with time.