Sidmouth

Im hearing rave reviews on RBC, and i see a promised fast 48 Hour turn around, any 1st hand recommendations?

installed a 36T and no problems done about 200KM , i think it is the way to go

Bought a wheelset with a 350 hub, i had no idea about the DT Swiss ratchet system by that 18T ratchet is horrible the contact points are to spread out, so I paid the R1995.00 and upgraded to the 54T. inserted as per the video, very simple, on the first steep hill i strip the 54T , im 92KG, did some research and found its a ferry common problem. I honestly think that ratchet sttem is not as good as the pawls. anyone has the same issue, or is 36T the way to go

im 92 KG so I thought 180 would cool better. rotors are new TRP rotors yes, cleaned rotors a few time, even taken out pads, sanded to flat keen with alcohol, and reinstalled, ive changed the 20 spacers from solid to single, realigned the works, I do a few enduros and see guys often upsize to 180mm, so im sure the problem is documented, hoping someone has had a similar experience

I eventual upgraded from 160mm to 180 mm rear rotor, however the vibrations which i have never experienced before make it impossible to brake, I have tried adding the 20MM spacers in a solid block and building them with individual spacers, the results are the same, radical vibrations It only happened when i put the 180mm on, 160mm was fine. any idea

problem solved, I run a oneup chainring with one chain and a blackspire chain ring with the other chain, today I put both chains on with the Blackspire and both times the noise and grit was prominent, put the oneup component chainring on, tried both chains and both silky smooth, The Blackspire chain ring has less than 500KM on it the one up just over 800KM. Blackspire made in Canada what a load of crap, I have run Csixx chainring to 4000km and they still feel new. wonder how much damage i have dont to the second chain which worked with the Blackspire

downstairs in the cellar waiting for my son to grow so I can get him a 29er frame

Meezo, this kid can multitask on forum chats

I kind of agree, if you use wax on a MTB chain it almost self cleans to a point, petrol is not a good idea its to dry and strips all oils, re lubing with a wax lubricant with a very high viscosity cannot get into the rollers with are deteriorating as the petrol drys from them, rather use paraffin or diesel or a chain cleaning product for chains. I have two chains, the second one with the same mileage is smooth as silk , I guess i have to drop R1400 and get a new one while they are still in compatible mileage

ok thats great news so you recon , increase the speed a bit

im 90KG i dont mind the noise, as long as this does not indicate a problem

you recon i should speed it up

Why would you rotate chains. when a chain stretches the stretch wears the cassette and ring, the idea of rotating a chain is to wear cassette and ring to a minimum, if the first chain wears to much the cassette and ring will not accommodate a new chain , the wear at this point is to great, and the drive chain needs to be replaced or you just have to keep running it was the same old chain

Thanks, I have cleaned it a few times, its still makes the grinding sound, great Idea, I bought it from Chain reactions cycles, I will buy another from them and then submit a warrenty claim

Just changed over to a Fox Stepcast 34 after 14000 km on my Pike non boost. Love the Fox, light and great to have a full lockout again. I do notice a hissing or breathing sound when riding very tough terrain and the fork is working hard, is this normal? its not an offensive noise, but is easily noticed

My second Sram XX1 eagle drive chain, got 9000km out of my first one, Love the Eagle On my second XX1 drive chain now, with 3000KM, I rotate two chains , change them every 700KM, the problem with the one chain is that it feels like its full of sand, a grinding feeling no matter how clean it is, its so irritating i can no longer use it, with 3000 on the entire drive chain theses chains have around 1500km on the each, they can handle more, in fact the second chain has been doing it after 500km, any clue or should i just replace one chain at R1450

its like Bitcoin, its its its lowest price right now, the price will increase as it starts to become a classic, save it as a collectible, maybe the next Klein

thanks for the advice Captain, here is the adapters from Trail Tech, saves you from having to keep track of a few spacers https://mrpbike.com/products/better-boost-hub-conversion-kits?variant=12922509525034

Thanks Mate, great lead, that will work https://www.cyclingstuff.co.za/product-category/bike-parts/disc-rotor-adaptors/

Hi Guys Need Some Help, im on a PYGA, but need to replace the front fork, Might as well get a boost fork now, I have two wheelsets a Hope pro 4 and Stand 3.30, Im just going to convert the front, do you know if the front hub just converts with one spacer which moves the rotor towards the caliper or does it come with rotor spacers, and do you know who sells theses conversion kits

I hope not, what does CSA contribute, we should all follow the Swartberg 100 route and get these events going without CSA

its not always cheaper, you just have to do the maths, always add 15% plus R200 and dont ever bring in clothes or helmets

yes, Looks like Merlin still will ship Shimano parts

Is there even any point now from ordering overseas, I see Sram no longer allows deliveries to SA this includes ZIPP and RockShox, now Shimano has joined in, so without these two and the tax you pay on clothing what is the point, we might as well order a bulk tube of KY jelly and let Cool Heat give us a good one

its very possible tandems were involved, by this point the racing tandems had merged with us,and they where pushing for position,after the smits climb, I only got a look at one rider, a single bike in the road, there where others to the right, but did not get a clear look.