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NukeproofPeanut

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Everything posted by NukeproofPeanut

  1. Definitely rideable, you just have to be mindful of your cranks on Rocky and rough terrain. Rode it like that for 3 weeks no other issues! The BB drop difference is like 1cm, so doesn't sound much, but you notice here and there. Had no issue jumping or doing like 5ft drops. Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  2. Ran it with 150mm and 160mm fork at 26, bb was just too low, even with 165mm cranks. At 650b now it just feels right. Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  3. Really nice! Good width and feel good! Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  4. Awesome newish tranny [emoji41] Scout build. Built it up with old 26" parts and finally migrated to 650b: Pike DP RC 160/130mm Hope Pro 4 E*thirteen trs+ rims Ice tech rotors SLX brakes Zee shifter, crank, derailer (1x10) Funn Fatboy bars Funn Stryge stem Maxxis DHF Maxxis Aggressor Just needs a dropper now.. Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  5. Maybe to answer your question directly, from your description, I'd recommend you look at the 2.4 Ardent for the front, and something like the crossmark for the rear. It'll take a while for your son to find the tyres he likes though. It's quite a personal thing and depends on riding style, terrain and weight. Edit: Just to add, the wife rides Schwalbe 2.25 Rocket Rons Front and Back, and loves them, but she also weighs like 49kg's and isn't an aggressive rider by any means.. So ya.
  6. Having ridden Conti, Schwalbe and Maxxis, on Gauteng hardpack and rocky (Hakahana/Helderkruin/Thaba), I stick to Maxxis!! Conti's (x king, M King): Really don't seem to hold up to my type of riding. Schwalbe (Rock Razor, NN, Hans): Grippy but the outside knobs feel soft when cornering hard and just don't seem to hold the line. Almost like they fold in. Maxxis: Harder wearing and hold up well to rocks and punctures! Currently Running DHF 2.5/DHR2 2.3 on the trail bike and DHF 2.5/Ardent 2.4 on the DJ. Really like the combos, but i'm switching the DHR2 for an Aggressor as rolling resistance is horrific The 2.4 Ardent is a really nice tyre and more than capable as a front for longer distance type riders who want more volume.
  7. I don't think there is any inherent disadvantages with either. Internal just looks better. But some things to bear in mind with an external: Depending on the design means slack in the cable when dropped, this extra cable can be a nuisance unless you have a way for it to slide cleanly next to the frame. Secondly, this sliding cable could cause additional frame rub..However adjusting and/or bleeding an external is normally much easier!
  8. Thanks, but just so stole the deore of the wife's bike. She hasn't ridden it in like a year Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  9. Ya I love Rapide! Awesome service every time!
  10. To me it sounds like it happens with each power stroke. So it's possible for it to be frame flex around the seatpost, but more likely the freehub or bearings. Are those cone hubs? If so give them a service, fresh grease and check if your cones are pitted and make sure the hub is correctly tightened.
  11. Ya if I don't come right, might just get a set of zee's Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks! Sandton/midrand normally. Hoping to find a replacement/fix but until then I've stolen the wife's front break.[emoji1] Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  13. So entirely my fault, I put the bleed block in half arsed since I couldn't slide it fully in from the bottom (adapter blocking it), I slotted it in from the top. Looked good and seemed like decent contact for the pistons; but alas whilst pumping the break the piston cracked leaking mineral oil everywhere! Seems you can't buy these separately? So who has a broken slx calliper I can use for parts [emoji2] or are there​ 3rd party pistons available? Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  14. After an unfortunate case causing my rear linkage to snap and blow the low speed compression dial out the shock of my giant reign; Discovery sent the bike off to cycle tech for assessment and fixing. Not only did they manage to source the required parts, but gave the bike a good once over! They even replaced additional suspension bearings and gave the bike a thorough cleaning! My drive train is shining so much it looks new!! I'm also pretty sure they replaced my gear cable or at least cleaned it up and crimped it. See the before and after pics! Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
  15. MiWay: R220p/m on 2 bikes, combined value R60k and R400 excess on each.
  16. The more I look into this, more I just see play. Even with that Tuf Rack (which I can't find a working website?) a you tube video still shows a lot of play in the receiver. Thinking roofrack is the only way to go :/
  17. I'm looking at getting something a bit more versatile than Thule roof racks, so thinking of getting a Front Runner Roof Rack with the relevant bike mounts? Anyone used these before? https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/za/roof-racks/factory-roof-rail-rack-kits/slimline-ii-grab-on-1165-w-x-1358-l.html
  18. Got a trailer for the mx bike, but not carting that around to carry 2 bicycles.. And thinking of the roof, but I'm short and i'll probably drive into the car port with the bikes on :/
  19. I bought a Thule Xpress 970 rack a few years ago (3ish?) and it's been great until I decide to do a trip to KZN and then back home through Lesotho via Sani to Katse dam! We initially tried that grey route, but when we tried to turn off the main road (where the point is) the road basically vanished in to a washed out dongas.. Chatted to the locals and they said to turn back, so ended up taking the blue route to the dam, We left the Sani pub at 2pm, and got to Katse at 9:30pm!! What a drive!!! Pic of me aligning the rack again.. Along the way the rack (carrying two bikes) developed some hectic play!! Brake enough and the handlebars hit the rear window.Rack rotates on the ball. Bike forks ended up rubbing paint off the bumper. (Car was so dirty I never noticed this until we got to Katse.The left-right sway developed to a point where it looked like the bikes were waving to all the locals we passed on the route! Like 30cm to either side from middle! On closer inspection the metal that forms the clamp on the ball had been bending out (photos to come). So although the rack wont fall off the play is so bad I don't want to use it! So beside using an old tube on the ball to make a snug fit, any recommendations for a better off-road worthy bike rack?
  20. To answer the OP, you'll be fine running larger volume tires on narrow rims. you'll likely have to run them harder than you would on a wider rim. I recommend reading: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html But basically the wider rims changes the tire profile giving a bigger contact patch, allows you to run lower pressures without burping as pictured below: http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p3pb7486955/p3pb7486955.jpg
  21. I have 170mm on both my bikes, and GF has 165mm. It makes a big difference for rock strikes and I find it more comfortable when standing.. And I'm 1.7m and she's around 1.6m
  22. I can definitely echo these sentiments!! Great guys to deal with! On more than one occasion I've walking in looking for a specific item (random things that aren't normally stocked, and my lbs couldn't help..) and they've managed to get it by the afternoon!
  23. 1. Hopefully I can stay on the bike then 2. A berm would be epic, but just cleaning the shale and probably a few arrows/caution/slow down signs will be fine for those doing it a 1st time. 3. Agreed, the lip is too big for a step down gap of that size. At race pace, guys will likely nose dive to flat. 4. 5.
  24. Thanks for ride guys, Sat was fun!! I'm looking for the go pro footage of my crash on sp1 A line, where I washed out after the rocks? Can't remember the guy's name :| Sent from my Mi-4c using Tapatalk
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