BenDL

Also had one that was in the system for a long time: Date Time Location Tracking Event http://www.parcelforce.com/images/common/blank.gif 19-01-2010 11:24 SOUTH AFRICA Parcel delivered 18-01-2010 13:52 SOUTH AFRICA Arrived at delivery depot 18-01-2010 10:49 JO'BURG INT MAIL CENTRE EMS Arrived in destination country 06-01-2010 02:44 International Hub Left origin country 05-01-2010 04:42 International Hub Arrived at outward Office of Exchange 04-01-2010 00:29 National Hub Sorted in hub 31-12-2009 00:00 WDM Online

I have on seperate occasions purchased two different FSA headsets. About the crown race - the part that slips on the fork's head tube & supports the bottom headset bearing. The one had a split crown race, which is easy to put one at take off as it is not pressed onto the head tube. The other was a solid ring & took some effort to seat onto the bottom of the head tube. Why the two different types as the split ring types seems much easier to operate?

I e-mailed them a while back & here was the reply: < ="-" ="text/; =utf-8">< name="ProgId" ="Word.">< name="Generator" ="Microsoft Word 12">< name="Originator" ="Microsoft Word 12"><> Thank you for your enquiry. We have a mixture of stock at the moment and the steerers all range from 245mm - 265mm. The sizes are not stated on the boxes so the only way to tell which one has which size is for us to measure them. If you need a steerer which is a minimum length I would advise that you write in the additional order information the length which you need and we can check that it is this length or longer. Kind Regards, Christopher Christopher Ross Sales Advisor Tel: +44(0)28 9335 2976 Email: Sales@chainreactioncycles.com Chain Reaction Cycles Ltd. Kilbride Rd Doagh Ballyclare BT39 0QA United Kingdom

X823 is not a tubeless rim. X819 is the tubeless one. (my rim of choice)

If it is anything similar to a Specialized you need these to remove the bearings: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id197.html I bought he same set at Highveld Garage Eq in Pretoria (012-330-0540) for R 1354,30 incl VAT. First time round I "tapped"the bearings out, but that is not so elegant & you need to strip the bike right down. To insert I use strong bolts & washers & sometimes the old bearings to pull (push?) the new ones in completly. If you're mechanically competent it is a fun job. But if you damage any of the linkages it can be quite an expensive excersice.

Enduro has them both in various types: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id169.html http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id201.html http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id139.html

In a cycling environment it would appear to me that the biggest enemy of a bearing is the moist / dusty / muddy conditions the ebarings are subjected to. So bearing sealing is quite important? As I understand it, the indicators combined with a bearing number, designates the sealing method (e.g. 6805 2RS): 2RS - 2 Rubber Seals ZZ - bearings sealed with aluminium caps - for use in dry areas. DD - ?? new to me, RS-Components refer to it as double contact seals. Questions - 1) Why do bicycle manufacturers use ZZ bearings in their suspension components where it will get wet? Why not 2RS or DD? 2) Anybody have experience with the DD seals? e.g. for Shiamno external hub bearings? Are they worth the additional costs? 3) Enduro bearing claim superiority due to no cages in their bearings & thus more balls fitted. Is the premium cost justified? 4) What grease to use? Is marine grade justified and does it really aid in keeping moisture out of the bearing? Thanks!

If you ride a lot & have a smallish budget, you seriously need to look at the Deore stuff. Their crank is marginally heavier (and thus stronger?) than SLX, but half the price. You are a strong rider, so a couple of grams here or there you won't even notice!

Having completed the Baviaans on a HT makes you more qualified then most to decide! If you enjoyed that and your body was OK with it then why change? A dual suspension is kinder on the body, for long rides. What some of us have learnt is that a full suspension has linkages that have bearings in them that require maintenance / replacement. This can be quite costly, unless you work on your own bike. When you shop around ask about these costs... Best is to have one of each!

[ No, 21 volts Remember, there are 6 leds with a Vf of 3.5 v each. they are arranged in series so it's 3.5 x 6 = 21V. the Driver boosts the voltage requirement to that which the lights require. So even though you run a 14.4 v battery, your leds are drawing 21Volts. Power in watts is the current x voltage P = 500ma x 21 P = 10.5W hope this helps. T Yes, that clarifies it. Driving voltage is 21V It draws 500mA, as a constant current source. So on a 5Ah battery pack you will get theoretically 10 hours, but the battery pack will shut down before that so realistically - 5 hours?

It will, if I build a 14.4 V 5000mA battery, which is quite possible and easy to do. remember, this little puppy is pulling 21V at full power! 21V was that a typo? did you mean 21W?

Interesting topic. Also interesting that JB is willing to pay R1100 for a OEM kit! But at least install it yourself, then you know all the bearing are done. On my bike the bearing were all commonly available (6800, 6801, etc.) You can get the specifications here (FSR Manuals) http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCGlobalPages.jsp?pageName=downloads

never had this. built a couple of custom wheels this past year with them using mavic rims and always processed without problem

www.optilabs.com I ordered a pair some time ago, R2,2k gone through the card. Will be some local costs as well, as per any overseas purchase. Don't have them yet, however these are formed lenses, not inserts.

Time to cut your losses? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28691 I don't know. I paid R2k for similar job on a Manitou Black. Could get a new RockShox Recon at that price & tha's what I will do next time. (Well I won't neglect the shock first...)

Yes, XT hubs, Mavix XM819 rims. had no problems regarding delivery, etc.

Unfortunately there is no standard in BB sizing. If you take a look at: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=908 you will see there there are a number of variants just for this one type of BB. Best to remove the BB & try and identify it. Or take it to the LBS & say "I want one of these, please." Good luck!

Maybe you'll find some info here: http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&bmUID=1230640805042

If you look at: http://www.moneyweb.co.za/mw/view/mw/en/page99 Rand/Dollar over the past years has moved from R8 to R10, that's 25%. Rand Euro, from R10 to R13 - 30% problem is that there were some spikes & importers could have caught them wrong & bought Euros when it was R15 (November 08) - that would be 50%. But there is also some over reaction...

In an old post JB wrote: ____________________________________________ So far, each Octalink failure I've come across was due to a Shimano oversight. Shimano had two shots at this. First it designed them so that there was no press-fit i.e. thespline simply lined up, fitted in and was tightened. Unlike a square taper that press-fits quite tightly. A spline that doesn't press-fit has a tendency to cause what iscalled an elastic backlach, a phenomena that destroys the splines on the softer of the two materials. This just happens to be the crank, which just happens to be the most expensive of the two materials. It was very common on the crappiest car ever made by the British -the MG and its ilk. They had spline-fit wheels with knock-on centre nuts that looked like propellers. These continuously destroyed themselves by backlash. This backlash then caused the retaining bolt to loosen, which worsened the backlash. On bicycles with Octalink, this wasparticularly evident with goofy-footed riders. Goofy-footed means right-footed, you'll descend with your right foot forwards rather than the other 75% of the population that'll go left-foot forward. Left-footedness is more prevalent than left-handedness (10%). Shimano then went to the other extreme and redesigned theirsplines by making them longer (which wasn't the problem in the first place, press-fit was) and unfortunately making them blind, so that you can't see them line up. Because the second attempt was a press-fit, they were supposed tobe hard to torque down. Aluminium is soft and if the splines aren't aligned, you're blissfully unaware that you're re-shaping the splines whilst torqueing it to Shimano's spec. Bad design. Period. The ISIS consortium understood the problem and designed their splines right from day one. Shimano created a mess whilst trying to fix the problem and at onestage you needed a compatibility table to see what fits with what. It was a mess. They then abandoned the concept completely and opted for theone-piece right crank and spindle, and a pinch-fit splined crank on the left. Therefore, don't blame yourself or the mechanic for the destroyedcrank. It is an accident waiting to happen. I suggest you go to a different crank system now that you're in the market for a crank. JB____________________________________________ What needs to be done to convert from Octalink to the Hollowtech system? CRC have a Shimano LX Chainset HollowTech II M582 at R723, while my BB alone cost around R337 (R400 from LBS) so the conversion would make sense if it can be done easily while not sacrificing reliability. (The Octalink has served me well, but is time to replace the BB & chainrings.)