slowtwitch

Nice fork How's the guy holding the bike, the (ex) owner?

As a last resort - weld on a lekker long round bar and then wind the frog. but it is alu welding so it might be a bit iffy other option is drill in 2 holes for a "fork" to fit the 2 holes. then wind the frog i.e. use distructive methods to get the darn thing out

No warn pulleys. Drivetrain is the "new" version Tiagra 9speed Mr. van Zyl, ek't obviously jou raad al gevolg sonder sukses. Ek is nie so seker die "x perts" by die bike shop gat die probleem find nie. Ek dink dit het iets te doen met daai voorste small blade, veral noudat hy weer vanoggend met die nonsens begin het om vanself af te kom. O yes and I have removed the crankset and BB again and reinstalled - thinking maybe the cranks were not properly fitted or somethingslowtwitch2009-09-17 00:59:41

Shot Derek. Another mech also mentioned this moring that I should double check jockey alignment with the special tool. I've now established that there's no issue in the big blade. so only when I'm in the 39T blade. Must also mention that I had, after the rebuild (and it happend this morning again) in my bottom gear the chain comes off the front blade while spinning in small blade. Previously I found the chainring bolts not completely tight, so I thought it might have been the issue, but obiously not. So there's a serious gremlin in there somewhere. I'll take the bike in 2morow to check jockey alignment, and update this post afterwards

Remember it did with both cassettes. 9speed Tiagra dont have a spacer behind the cassette. I thought maybe stiff link in the chain, but can't feel anything by running the chain through my fingers. I don't think I removed the chain when cleaning the bike (causing stiff link when installing again) and the chain is still same lenght Drivetrain I always keep clean. Must admit didn't check for both chainrings 'cause it's at the bottom 2 gears. When the bike is in a stand there's no issue, only on the road i.e a bit of pressure on the gears - not even climbs

Road bike 9 speed shimano 11/21 52/39 and the problem is as follow: my chain skips in the gear, but only on 21T and 20T. I've checked the chainwear - it's fine Thought the cassette is done, so I replaced with a 12-23 new one. It still does the same - skips in the bottom 2 gears. Shifting is smooth, chain runs smooth in the gear and then jumps, runs smooth, then jumps, but only in the bottom 2 gears i.e. 23T and 22T. I've loosened the gear cable checked top and bottom adjusting screws, B tenssion screw, all is fine. I must mention that this only started after I stripped the whole bike and rebuilt it (with same groupo) What did I overlooked????slowtwitch2009-09-30 23:26:38

windblown, you should join the Pez Cyclingnews crew, they are all mad about Parlee. Very nice US brand I must admit

While you're there you can enter your new stead on the weightweenie roster for a R10 donation

I'm selling a San Marco Rolls old school saddle, check the For Sale page if interested

Apricot, what size and can you weigh the frame and fork. Most LBS' got proper scales

I'm looking forward for the results on the frameset's performance being one of those ebay blanks we discussed (looks like one) Apricot, will you please post a proper review once you've given it some road time

Your position i.e. setup on the bike is the important aero matter followed by your wheel choice

I assume it is the drive side cup that's stuck Weld (to the BB cup) on a long lever type bar and wind the frog! Or leave it in place and just use it as is

So? you like? The old stick is the alpina I had to save from the neighbor wanting to post the bike to the gardner. A friend found the wheels in shop in Kempies. Replaced the fork with a 1" threadless fork with a new Pro headset. I fitted a std riser bar "crowbar" and a 120 stem of an old scott. fitted with cube grips' date=' avid speed dial 7 levers with 105 calipers. The crank came of an old mtb with a 44 ring on the std taper square BB. Sanded and given a few layers of satin black. but the greatest part is the first ride... [/quote'] Yes I like, esp the stem/ cockpit

I need to sell of some of my bikes/ frames, so if any of you are interested in the E Merckx let me know

jeez, now you guys remind me that I still got to solve that darn stuck seatpost prob (which I've avoided) as discussed in the previous thread. Eish

What the??? Where did this one come frome GTR...or is it one of the 8 that's left What frame is it?

Thanx Tarboy, you're absolutely right 'bout the chain, will sort out 2morrow. I've only done the unsophisticated weighting thing (me on the b-room scale and me +frameset). Frameset+BB+headset approx 2.8kg

Thanx GTR, this baby was already on the track and in peak traffic this avie!!! Probably not in her final sunday dress, but she's at least on the road for now

GOEIE GENIGTIG!!!!!! Ek hoop die andwoord is erns daar binne

Option 1: If you've got exposed "dak kappe" just gooi hom 'n rope sling for the saddle and a rope sling with a piece of pvc pipe horizontally for the STI's to hook over. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Option 2: Bracket (squere tubing with flatbar for rolbolts) to the wall that'll hold your car's bike rack Option 3: Cheap skate wheel hook into the dak kap Option 4: Bike in master bedroom to be moved as desired to get to closets (not recommended for tranquility in marriage)

Kom nou Johan, met al jou 1/100ste van mm akuraatheid is daar sekerlik 'n meer tegniese andwoord as daai een?

Now that's a much more difficult question to answer. I watched a nice youtube clip last night from the sales dude from Colnago, and he summed it up nicely. With the top end models of most top end brands i.e. the ones you see the Pro Tour Teams ride with, there's basiclly very little difference in terms of performance and it boils down to personal taste. A Giant TCR Advanced, Trek Medone, Cervelo R3, Scott Addict, Spez, Orbea Orca, Pina, Colnago.... they are all fantastic and pretty much on par. One might be slightly lighter, otherone more stiff, another breaks easier in crashes