IH8MUD

Both the Schwalbes my bike came with got cuts like that in the 1st month. Stitched them up(like a cut in your skin) patched a gator (big patch) on the inside of the tube and rode them tubeless with Stan's for a while. But got new tires for a race . . . I keep them now as backup tires.

I'm not sure of the specs . . . . But what is the weight difference between your choices? I know weight is not the begin and end all, but I can not help feeling you should compare the same spec bike (carbon frame, part spec). How much rand will your spec upgrade on the Scalpel cost? Will it then cost more than the Giant? I guess the same spec Scalpel is carbon and quite expensive? Maybe it makes the Giant a better deal? After all the bean counting and speculating and advice . .. . . . Buy the bike that you LIKE and WANT ( the one that gives you wood )

Ice Biking-Lake Michigan- Michigan's Upper Peninsula http://aaronpeterson...0000fRyzhXJ4jZk

Is the "vents" for the barometric sensor clean and open? or Like Lapa said, probably one unit needs calibration But take into account, this is not precision instruments. Influenced by temperature and humidity On different days my Garmin Edge 500 gives different altitude for the same place . . . Buddy of mine rode into a rainstorm on level road, his Garmin Edge 800 said he climbed 400 meter in 3km! We are 4 guys, all riding with Garmin Edge 500 units. The is always a difference. Sometimes up to 150 meter on long rides.

Nice video, but Peter Sagan and many others will do all that on a road bike. No need for a fatty. But spending money on a Fat bike only makes sense to me if you ride knee deep snow, the beach or similar surface, or if you already have a shed with every other type of bicycle. I think it's a "cool kid" thing (industry driven). . . . It will pass. Just my 2cent

In Southern Africa?! Hijackers will have a field day !!

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m8bq3zrWym1rd2qw6o1_400.gif

Some Intro music . . . The CLIMB . . ./. http://25.media.tumblr.com/aad1e6e043ab1b892f5c1097322cf4ff/tumblr_msrjjuazpN1rbfrlpo1_500.gif

Been thinking of a career change for my whole career.

Thanks Guys. 12.1kg ! Then I'll be one happy camper/rider. I've read these Pygas is not all about weight and they are good climbers. One can definitely shave of a lot of grams by throwing money at it and get carbon wheels, stem and all. But thats not the point i think as TYGA said. Perhaps a 1X11 Sram XO drive train and AM Wide Lightning wheels? That would do the trick?

Hi! Question to the guys with Pygas. At the moment 'n ride a Scott Genius 910 2014 (With the New Fox Nude shock). It is my do all bike for XC, trail, marathon, district roads. It weigh in just under 13kg with Stans, pedals ext. (ride ready) I'am quite happy with the bike. BUT I can not stop lusting for a PYGA OneTEN29!! They are SOOOO DAMN NICE and Sexy! (Keeps me awake at night) I'm not a weight weeny (don't need a 10kg bike) but I do a lot of 4-hour plus rides. What does your PYGA ONETEN29 weigh ? (Large frame) Will I be under 13kg for a large frame with XT build & brakes and a Stans Arch wheelset?

@ GoLefty. You do know a lot about your oil and Lubricants. I am humbled. The Base oils and their ISO viscosity is a different ballgame for me. Did not mean to offend. I am always wiling to learn more. I was referring to the viscosity what hubbers will see while lavishing their chain with can of the best. (shamelessly copied & pasted) (you will know this) "The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code." And that Kinematic Viscosity of SAE 5W-30 at 40degC is about 64 cSt. And SAE20W-50 at 40degC is about 166 cSt. It takes a lot longer to get the 80W90 to drain into the oil pan (or seep into the chain links) than the 15W40.

Wurth makes good products. Friend of mine use a spray of Wurth on the chains in his Forklift business. But I will have to go and check if it is the Silicone one you mention.

There will be no point in arguing. Go and buy a 80W-90 and 15W-40 oil. Then pour both of them into/onto something (the floor perhaps) Look at what you see. Then read again what you posted. (possibly your understanding of viscosity differ from everybody else) Or, do it this why, go and pour the 15W-40 oil in your cars differential and 80W-90 in your engine. Both is Multi Grade. That is correct. The "W" stands for WINTER and not Weight. Example: 15W-40 means at cold (winter) temperature it will have the viscosity of 15 weight oil. As the engine reach operating temperature , instead of viscosity lowering (along the graph of a 15 weight oil) with increase in temperature like a mono grade oil (SAE 30 od SAE 80) , the 15W-40 oil will have the viscosity of a 40 weight oil at operating engine temperature. Thus the viscosity is more the same across the temperature range. Hens the name MULTIGRADE oil. That is why the same car will run best on 5W-30 in Canada winter and 20W-50 in Botswana summer. A Monograde oil like SAE 10 weight or 20 or 50 or 80 ext. The viscosity change with temperature change.

Hi, I hope this is not off topic. With all the lube advice, perhaps some advice with the following. On long gravel-travel rides of 50km plus (think dry dusty district roads, with lost of Land Cruisers racing past) I start with a clean well lubed chain but after about 50 to 60km is caked in fine dust, and seem to need a re-lube. Just wiping it down and adding extra lube won't work, because it is not clean enough and will just make a nice grinding past. If lubed, the fresh lube will attract even more dust. Any advice? (expect shorter rides or road cycling) Or just live with it?

Hi. All New member here. What? Nobody riding in the "Cape Flats"?