Woofie

& its going to get me into some trouble at work soon!

Banump Not much happening on the hub so time to get this thread going again.

Do not joke or jest!!!!!!!!.......... this is somebody's pride and joy....... and it IS a FULL susser too!!!!!!!!! .....but there is a bench in the picture........

How much for the bench?

road or mtb

You'll save about 60 g per wheel. It will not change the ride' date=' you won't even know they're there. Will it be worth the upgrade? Of course. You need it. 60 grams per wheel is 120 grams per wheelset. It all adds up you know. It'll make you faster, more responsive, roll faster and the envy of the opposite sex. All of this will lead to promotion of work, more money, early retirement and endless happy days on sundrenched beaches. (All said in exactly the same voice intonation as when Johnny Toomuchmoney walks into a Mercedes dealership and asks the salesman if he really needs a 6.3l supercharged engine is a C-class Merc.) [/quote'] So I could save upto 60 a wheel, but I wont know the difference at all and it wont change the ride. But it is definitly worth the upgrade. Maybe if I was a weight wennie it would make a bigger difference because of bragging rights. JB, following snippets of your other posts, should I even dare to ask you if you get titanium spokes I am not about to respoke a perfectly functioning wheelset, but if I ever had to replace spokes I would like to put the best thing that I could on them.

I think my roadie currently has normal straight guage spokes. (American Classic Sprint 350) How much weight could I save by putting on some light sapins? Would it change the ride at all? Would it be worth the upgrade?

I carry spare tubes.

Take a read for yourself on Sheldon Browns website.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html HydroplaningCar and truck tires need tread, because these vehicles are prone to a very dangerous condition called "hydroplaning." This happens when driving fast in very wet conditions, which can lead to the tire riding up onto a cushion of liquid water. When this happens, there is a sudden and total lack of traction. Cars can hydroplane because:Bicycles canNOT hydroplane because: A car tire has a square road contact, and the leading edge of the contact is a straight line. This makes it easier for a car tire to trap water as it rolls.A bicycle tire has a curved road contact. Since a bicycle leans in corners, it needs a tire with a rounded contact area, which tends to push the water away to either side.. A car tire is quite wide, so water from the middle of the contact patch can have trouble escaping as the tire rolls over it, if there are not grooves to let it escape. A bicycle tire is narrower, so not as much water is in contact with the leading edge at once. Car tires run at much lower pressure than bicyles.The high pressure of bicycle tires is more efficient at squeezing the water out from under. Cars go much faster than bicycles, again leaving less time for water to escape.At high bicycle speeds, hydroplaning is just possible for car tires, but is absolutely impossible for bicycle tires. Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guidline as to when hydroplaning is a risk. The formula used in the aviation industry is: Speed (in knots) = 9 X the square root of the tire pressure (in psi.) Here's a table calculated from this formula: Tire PressureHydroplane Speed Miles per hourHydroplane Speed Kilometers per hour P.S.I.Bars 1208.3113183 1006.9104167 805.593149 604.180129 402.866105

ah

Time to switch off!!!!!!! yay!!!!!!

yep. Slicks are the way to go. The only good of having any tread on the road is to see how far your tyre has worn down. The tar offers far more grip from pressing into the rubber than tread will grabbing the tar. Bikes can not aqua plain so they dont need tread like car tyres to displace the water in front of it. Sheldon Brown has a nice article on the whole subject. BUT remember that you will still be able to slip the same as everybody else. And remember that your brakes will also suffer.

Yep PM you?

Asprin in turn will thin the blood. So for every ibruprofen taken join it with a disprin. Come on Woofie2009-11-12 06:56:52

I am waiting for a volunteer now. Ibruprofen anyone?

Cool. Your way is easier than mine. Thanks guys.

But I never normally take them anyway. So would it really be that bad to take one or two during a race?

Ok, there was another thread going around yesterday about how anti-inflams are bad for your kidneys while excercising etc. How bad are they? Would anti-inflams help to offset cramps at all? I have been doing a fair bit of reading here and scientificly it seams that no cramp block tablet of sorts should actually help. Cramp block has "seemed" to work for me, but I am wondering how much of a mental thing that is as well. Now doctors seem to think that the only reason you cramp is from the muscle getting over stimulated from electrical impulses through the nerves and as the muscle gets more tired so the impulses increase and that is why you cramp. (it is believed at least) Now what if you had to take some sort of medication to "control" the nerve impulses a bit better? Maybe a anti-inflam would help slightly. or else what about a muscle relaxant or something? Ideas anyone?

Norflex tablet - what is that? Painkiller?

Thanks for the input guys. I really appreciate it. Maybe it is time to change the cables, however they dont feel sticky and they are only a few months old. How long do cables normally last for on the road? (if I do, lets say maybe 8 hours a week) My chain is only a couple of hundred old (maybe 300) and my cassette is about a month old as well. JB, how do YOU set a RD? Is there like a golden rule on the order of what to do when? ie. Do you first put the rear trimmer into the middle and then attach the cable and adjust the tension so it is almost right. Then adjust the rear trimmer. Do you ever touch the front trimmer? The way that I have been doing it, is I hang my bike up and I turn the rear trimmer all the way until it wants to start hopping. Then I turn it the other way until it wants to jump the other way and I count the turns as I am going through. Then I think that surely half the amount of turns back should be in the middle and it will work well there. That seems to work ok for me, I then shift through the gears and do minor adjusting until it all sounds as quiet as it can be. That normally works quite well, but then sometimes I hit the road and need to start playing with the trimmer again. ACTUALLY it just dawned on me.......... I know what the answer is. God is obviously trying to tell me that I need the electric DA. I would never spend that much money.

We already have a gripe thread going Come join in there https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=65896

Ok, so basically If I hang my bike up and am able to shift through the gears properly and then find a different response on the road then it is probably the RD?