bertusras

Bummer, I was going to suggest that you borrow my Satori which is currently sitting in storage.

Slowbee, where are you located?

Yes, you don't need to use a subscription service. Before I started with Zwift I used the Tacx Training App on my phone connected to the trainer and my Bluetooth HRM. When used with the Satori Smart (dumb) Trainer, you increase your power by either selecting a heavier gear, or using the resistance lever on the unit. For the most part I was able to get all my power zones without having to use the lever, and only using the gears. The Satori Smart also doesn't need an AC power source, so as long as your phone (or Garmin) has some life you can ride and still see your values. http://i.imgur.com/k8f45ae.png Yes, you can import your route to Zwift, but it doesn't quite work like that. You take an existing GPX file, set your intensity factor at which you would like to do the route, and then Zwift simulates what power zones you should be in for a set gradient. So basically, it looks like this So on a fully smart trainer, with ERG mode, it will lock you in at a specific wattage according to the colours, which correspond with the gradients. On a dumb trainer, you'll need to self-adjust to the power levels required by the program. Honestly, for the sake of keeping track of what's happening, I'd go with a Satori Smart. You adjust your gears to adjust your power, but you still get the benefit of having actual figures to work with and compare progress.

I don't know how much of this is actually true, but you really should consider using spoiler tags.

Fluid 2 isn't Smart, is it?

FTP is not required. As long as your personal settings are correct, Zwift manages it automatically. I also started out with a dumb, smart trainer (Satori Smart) which didn't control the resistance. So if I felt like it I could meander up Zwift mountain at 120W in an easy gear and low HR, without having to actually fight against the 7% gradient, however at a measly 5kph or something like that. It's essentially the same as if you were to hit a climb in ERG mode, it completely ignores the gradient and doesn't affect how hard you need to pedal, you just go slower. Edit: And that's why weight is important in Zwift. Some people (cheaters) will put their weight much lower than it is, and then blast up climbs at 7w/kg, which Zwift obviously can't compensate for.

Sure. 3.5s vs 1m04s.

Lorenzo needs the wings to plant the front wheel to the ground, Dovi not so much. It's a shame that the Repsol bike went pop, but it does bring the championship much closer again. Next up is Misano. Both Rossi and Dovi will want to win there, I think it's gonna be a cracker!

Yeah I've also now unticked the USB Power Save option, will give it a bash tomorrow. Thanks!!! Edit: Come to think of it, it's possible that the days I'm not having issues, the laptop is plugged into AC power.

No but that goes through your phone through your network to the PC, which has huge lag.

You can't Zwift on a PC with Bluetooth directly?

Ugh I've also been having ANT+ issues and it's frustrating the hell out of me. It always happens after 45 minutes of training. I've got an extension cable so the stick is right next to the trainer. I've used two different TACX trainers, and two different sticks, and it's happened on both. But it doesn't always happen. But it drops everything, HR, cadence and power. So I'm thinking there's an issue with my PC now?

Out to Cullinan with the Velo boys and girls this morning

Yeah it's ridiculous. Just because Espargaro stuffed it up by not looking, everyone has to pay the penalty.

What's the fastest way to get an answer for a problem you're having? Post the wrong answer on a message board.

Also http://i.imgur.com/7cv7iot.png http://i.imgur.com/C5s7dLw.png

Getting my wisdom teeth out on the Saturday, bleak! This is such a fun (and beautiful) race!

Nope. Math is American. Maths is British.

BODMAS 5 + (10 x 3)

Well even with a tracking setup you will still stack images, for several reasons: 1) You get more data with multiple exposures than you would a single exposure. Think about it as painting. If you just keep painting over the same spot with the same colour and same brush stroke, all you're doing is making the paint thicker and discarding what paint was applied lower down. When you stack an image, you take all the best data each pixel has collected and aggregate it. 2) The longer your exposure, the hotter your sensor becomes, and a) the more noise it generates, and b) the bigger your chances of hot pixels become. Again, by taking shorter exposures and stacking images you allow the software to distinguish between light data and noise data, and eliminate hot pixels from appearing in your final picture. 3) Doing it properly by taking the full range of lights, darks, flats and bias photos will give even more definition to your photos. Read this for some more info regarding this topic and what the purpose of each set of images is. 4) The last thing you need at the end of your single 10/20/30/60 minute exposure is a gust of wind or a bat destabilising your rig and screwing your entire image. Long exposures aren't a more pure technique, it's a silly technique in my book.

Not so much editing/Photoshopping as making use of all the light data captured by your camera sensor. A camera cannot see what the eye can see, hence the need to digitally enhance the image.

Sandton was showing off this weekend

Ugh I was away the weekend and missed it!!!!!

Damn I need to get back into this. It was so so so good!

You need to be on Gold for 3 consecutive years before you go to Diamond, AFAIK.