Mr Mulebar

Only if it is a triple front mech!

Yep, shifters make all the difference. Would also suggest a better quality chainset. They are not only lighter but also more rigid, so you get more efficient shifting and power transfer. Ultegra SL is excellent value for money!!!

Any Continental tyre with Vectran breaker is pretty puncture resistant for the ultimate protection try GP 4 seasons! Double Vectran breaker.

UST tyres are always a tight fit, Dirtbreath's suggestion does help. Some tyre/rim combinations are just a pain. Conti on Shimano rims is nigh on impossible, however Conti on DT Swiss rims is pretty good. I'm using 2.2" UST Race King's Awesome tyre!

SO everytime you remove your wheels you have to re adjust your calipers? Sounds like your brakes are faulty or not set up properly. Outride works fine with all bikes and let's face it removing a wheel with a QR skewer is not such a mission.

Best way to set up a rear shock is sag and test ride. Recommended pressures are nothing more than a place to start from.

If you look on the back of the crank arms around the pedal hole the exact model number of crank is printed/stamped there. Don't take chances as it could also be a FC4550 crankset. The way to tell the difference if you don't have the bike is simple. 10 spd cassette = FCR600 and 9 spd = FC4550.Mr Mulebar2009-05-19 06:08:58

Shifting is smoother and lighter, ie there is almost no effort in moving the lever. When using a standard rear mech it requires more effort to push the lever down to actuate shifting as the spring in the mech is working against the shifter, it still work it's just not as smooth or intuitive in my opinion.

Sorry to burst your buuble Just convert to XTR all the way round? The current rapidfire pods are the muts nuts!!

Whoever told you that is mistaken, XTR uses STD shimano cable pull ratio.

No it will not damage the frame what so ever, you place way more strain on headtube area when cornering and hitting rough terrain. If your bikes have carbon frames you should not use any carrier that clamps onto the frame directly!! So the Tour Ride is the only option in that scenario.

Yes you can use standard rear mech with integrated levers, but as they were designed to work with rapid rise I'd buy a rapid rise XT rear mech part code is RDM770. I use integrated levers and have tried both types of mech, rapid rise works better!

Why would you think DT Swiss is weaker? Better hubs and definitely better rims than MAVIC

Why does nobody ever read instructions? The same instructions are printed on the piece of paper in the box with every SHIMANO chain!

In my experience you get what you pay for!! Light and Motion Seca 700, best light ever, cycling specific beam pattern and bomb proof construction!

Normal rims with lightweight tubeless rimstrip, sealant and proper tubeless tyres.

Have you adjusted the cable tension since changing your cables? New cables stretch quite a bit initially so I would try increasing the cable tension before going to a bike shop or replacing parts. Obviously if you've done this then it is probably the shifter that is causing the problem. How old is the shifter?

Rode the Epic this year on an Anthem Advanced, all I can say is FLAWLESS! If you set the suspension up right there is no need for lockout etc. One drawback with the Scott suspension setup is that it relies on you to put the rear shock in Tracloc or Lockout mode to give a stable pedaling platform,so you have to keep track of that on the Anthem, just ride!never ridden a Top Fuel so can't comment

Either will work, but shifter is crisper and smoother if you are using a rapid rise rear mech, particularly on the latest generation Dual Control Levers.