Mongoose!

"hacked" Please explain?

cannot agree more 👍

Just be careful for "think you understand it" and how it will be applied by taking some fine print also into consideration.

My insurance as well. But I am only covered for items I insured (owned by me) (specified by me) on which I pay a monthly premium for the insurer to carry the risk. Appears Naked offers a better product that my current insurer if it also covers products not owned .or / and no premiums paid on such item. And even better: the item actually insured / undamaged you get to keep.

I am considering to move over to Naked.

Guess only frame as he still has his old wheels. The money paid out for wheels is to replace the borrowed wheels

How can wheels that was not insured be covered? No insurance premiums were paid on it by the OP. The insurance company did not carry any risk on it being damaged. Is the wheels that the premiums and risk were based on not undamaged? Did the insurance company requested the undamaged wheels back as part of settlement? Please provide clarification how the insurer reasoned to come to such conclusion . It insurance world it almost appears too good to be true 🤔

I am following this thread and just to come back to the OP for better understanding So, the bike was insured with alu wheels? The alu wheels were not involved in the crash but at home? Wheels involved in crash was borrowed carbon wheels. Did the insurance company (Naked) indicate that they will subtract the value of your alu wheels from settlement? (which is undamaged and at home at time of the crash) Did they define wheels as in (rims; tires'; tubes; cassette and skewers)? Calculated at replacement value You use the term "would have been written off" My understanding is the wheels you paid a premium on, and the insurance company carried the risk on, is undamaged and should be excluded from the settlement? apologies if you already clarified this in a previous post - only scanned through the 7 pages Thanks for sharing your experience and updates - we all are leaning from it🙏

Insurance companies should offer more than one product for bicycle insurance. Specifically towards carbon frames: Option 1 Replacement option. Damaged frame will be replaced. High premium and no unpleasant surprises. Option 2 Damaged frame will be repaired. Accredited carbon repair network and warranty. Lower premium. No unpleasant surprises. Simply solution. Don't take "Replacement premiums" and want to settle with repairs. And don't suspect to pay "Repair premiums" and expect a replacement settlement.

On a side note. Once an ad ends with the following phrase : "smal carbon repair done on frame with lifetime warranty...." I just losing interest. Admiration for honesty of seller though. Maybe it's just me

always wondered on the issue with carbon repairs. You have a small incident with your $$$ insured S works. The over eager insurance assessor (keeping his / her X mas bonus in mind) recommends your frame must be repaired and not replaced. Mentioning a carbon expert accredited with Nasa aerospace division / doing part time consulting for F1 and lifetime warrantee on its work (situated in Brakpan). You receive your bike back. There is a difference in owning a S work bike and owning a S works carbon repaired (this part was resprayed) bike 👀 Just try selling a repaired bike here on Bikehub.. Maybe one has to carefully read through the fine print of policy..."must be put back in the position you were in before the incident excluding resale value"...? excluding weight difference - Jip your repaired SL8 S works frame will be slightly heavier than the non repaired one. Yes the interference with the carbon layup on repaired area will / might have an impact... depending on how resistant you are on cycling marketing and bias YouTube videos 🙃 In the automotive world "panel beaters" are replaced with "panel replacers" One small mark on a panel of an insured vehicle and it will be replaced... (yes car panels are made of metal and not carbon 🤷‍♂️) Any thoughts Should we accept carbon repairing instead of replacing from insurance companies? Anyone had a claim where replacing was rejected and repaired and insurer convinced you that the repair is "just as good or better" than it originally was.

Some early Bloemfontein gravel riding earlier this morning 👌

The higher the price the higher the expectation...just saying

Three resent disappointments in a row ... Used for road and gravel riding in the dark. 1. Magicshine CBL 1600 - extremely poor battery life and poor cheap plastic mount. If the battery life was not that poor I would have bothered to buy a new mount. but making this part from cheap plastic is just a bad idea. 2. Extreme Light (Trail) - weights a ton. The not so bright beam and average battery life does not make up for the weight. This thing is heavy on a handlebar with no other mounting option. 3. Wuben 1300 Lumens - Don't believe all YouTube revies... If you select the brightest option, it dims to a lower light after 1 min. No matter what. fully charged - other brand-new battery. Heavy as it uses a bigger 21700 battery. The 1000 lumens Ryder at the front outperforms all above: Wider beam; better battery life; weight (use a 18650 battery and can be replaced) and mounting options.

To Brandfort and back first ja...🤣

To Brandfort and back first ja...🤣

Thanks for the reply. Haha. Yes my Sram is GX 11 speed. Typo.... I have Grx on my gravel bike🤦‍♂️. Think my original post was maybe too long... In short: I have currently a Sunrace 11 - 42 cassette on my bike. ( HG free body) . Front a 34 oval ring. The groupset is GX 1 x11. I am going to spin out on the 11. If I go bigger at the front I may struggle with the climbs. The price of a new 1 x 11 XD cassette is too close to a new SLX upgrade kit. SLX upgrade kit will require a microspline hub. Not an option for my old wheels. Thinking of going 2x10 with parts I have 42/28 front and 36/11 rear Or Cheap Aliexpress 42 - 9 XD cassette- but worried about bad shifting. First world problems....lol

well i just ordered a 36 and a 38 from Richey here on Bikebub. Guess I will have to test them on Raderkop here in Bloem...😬

Thats what I currently have (42 - 11) but will definitely spin out on it (oval 34 front)

I did one TB many years ago. As roadie I don’t ride my mtb. (my off road riding is on a gravel bike) Decided to give it a go this year again… with my mtb Not going for the win – mid pack finish. My current setup is a Black inc Scalpel (2018 I believe) and with a 42 – 11 rear and a 34 oval ring at front. (Sram GRX 11 speed) I removed the XD freehub when my original GRX 42-10 cassette was done to replace it with a cheaper HG cassette (but still have the XD freehub) Appears 11 speed Sram XD cassettes are rarely available and overpriced if you can find one. There are generic XD cassettes on AliExpress but mainly 42 – 9. Online research showed that my shifting will be very poor with my GRX rear derailleur and 9 t at the back? Can anyone confirm from firsthand experience with this? Though to go the SLX route but realised I will need a microspline freehub. I believe my wheels are too old (American Classic Wide Lightning Race) – Not really keen on re building a new microsline hub into this old (but good contention due to minimum use) wheels and spokes… Frame non boost. The thought of using an Eagle cassette on the XD freehub with a SLX drivetrain also crossed my mind but unfortunately, I have O C D…lol (also heard only bad things of Sram NX…) So here my thought : I have good 2 x 10 parts lying in my garage 42 /28 on a Hollow gram SL crank (28 brand new / 42 still good and will accept a new chain) New 36 -11 Sram cassette New 10 speed Sram chain XO 10 speed rear derailer and shifters Luckily kept the front derailleur hardware for frame when I converted it to 1 x Unfortunately, the only front derailleur I have that will fit the frame is a X7 but for a 39 – 26 chain set… Question: Should I go back to 2 x for this event? (I am a back yard mechanic and can do all conversions myself) Weigh difference will not really bother me and I will probably convert back to 1 x after the event. Will a 39-26 front derailleur work on a 42 -28 crank? Will the gear ratio 28 front – 36 rear be sufficient enough? Should I try al cheapo 42 – 9 cassette?? From AliExpress?? Or should I just buy a new bike….lol 🙃

Yip. I am also owner of the Lefty 's 👌

Lefty' s are cool.... but comes with a price...🤑

Excellent choice. Enjoy!!

Not a great idea if the frame is carbon, which I guess is.