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gogo@

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Everything posted by gogo@

  1. Be warned, don't do anything to 'open' a partial sms with an enticing line 'your account (ph.no.) has 500cr... Just received this SMS that requires a click for full download. google leads to mybroadband with details: http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/showthread.php/378130-Scam-SMS-doing-the-rounds-ems.cx Long short: click on this and you unwittingly subscribe to a R7/day service... I'm sure you'll have fun trying to reverse this. It comes from a vodacom no. 0820048640923 Why doesn't WASPA/Vodacom (or whoever) fry this?? It's got to be a scam and I'm sure I've heard of people being caught.
  2. But if this is what people think (and do) why not have this discussion out in the open?? Or what? What was the thread reported for?
  3. I don't know that it's worth debating the finer details of stupidity. But since I got into this, just think: Space on the side of the road is not empty (!!!) and as was said above cyclists have ways of claiming/managing that space and using all senses (common included) to stay as safe as possible in it. Motorists have more time to react to you being in it too if you cycle with the traffic. Does the average runner do 25km/hr?? If you run facing oncoming traffic and need to avoid a car, how easy is it to jump onto the pavement/ out the way... is it the same on a bike? Do this experiment, if you're in an argumentative frame of mind: measure the distance it takes to take this kind of manouvre and compare to distance it takes a runner to do same. Factor in the bike's wheelbase in your comparison. And assume your bunny hops are top class and that there's no pedestrian on pavement (or other obstacle). Make your own deduction. I don't know about others but I'm a bottom-feeder cyclist and regularly get above 25km/hr in traffic. My routes in and out of town clock close on 60 going downhill. You want to agree with the OP? Go for it. As I said before, if this was such a good idea it would have been law already.
  4. I doubt your reactions will be fast enough!
  5. My point too - slow on posting.
  6. There's two. Three. Do you ride at 12/14km per hour max??Maybe it will work like that...but I still think it's plain stupid. Basic physics is three: add 60km + 30km per hour you get impact at 90km per hour for a head-on. Add 60km + (-30km) per hour for cycling with traffic and you get 30km per hour at which impact happens... That's quite a difference. THEN four, ride against traffic and you don't have a single legal inch of space to ride in. FIVE. Riding with traffic is a skill in which you can learn to 'manage' your space and anticipate what you might need to react to. For instance I'm pretty sure that after the first car in a stream passes me the second (etc) is going to drive closer to me in passing - something to do with how they perceive the gap seeing the first car pass you in front of them... there's lots I could add so ask if you think I'm not giving good enough reasons. Think about it, if it were really safer to cycle against traffic, then why is the law the way it is??? Really, you have to be suicidal to do this regularly, so PLEASE DON'T ENCOURAGE OTHERS TO JOIN YOU
  7. Have you TRIED this???? If you have and are still here to suggest this, then I think you need a brain scan!
  8. That is so coooool! Great that Ian is up and riding again... going to take a leaf out of your book Garfield, when I can!
  9. great post, thanx dangle... Can you say more about this market?? Does this mean gumtree type stuff or out of the country? Or...?
  10. Even a dof old goat like me worked that out...
  11. Hey?? Who's waiting?? I know one of the 'issues' is my other half worries that I'll get crunched on the road. Now those stories, I don't tell them all...
  12. Agreed 100% bought my road bike as a new hubber from another hubber selling on behalf of a friend... looked dodgy but other guys had seen the bike and posted about it, which helped. It's hard to find a bike my size, 2nd hand and accessible, so I really wanted it. But I was not 1st in line. Funny thing is someone else from my part of the world bought it but the his GF didn't want it - too small. Long short, I got calls, PMs, emails & in an hour I had it in my hands. Didn't even have to drive 240km to go look at it. Thousands of happy kms later... all because I phoned the guy who was selling and we chatted. That built up the relationship which made everyone get in touch with me and because of geography, I jumped the (small) queue. Nothing beats a phone call, but the Hub is there to give you an idea in the first place who you are dealing with. For me, this was a brilliant intro to the Hub. Have ethics changed that much in 2 years?? Or was I lucky? Last year I bought a bike bag from someone who also went to a lot of trouble to help. Lucky again?
  13. Definitely not! BUT, I can't say I have a problem hiding cycle-spend, cos there isn't much... Problem for me is there's little way to hide the TIME I spend cycling... that's the issue in our house, even when I get out early so I get home early over weekends and there's the rest of the day to do stuff together. Doing long rides is always an issue... sigh.
  14. Maryks has had great press here - I'd try her program but I also think it helps to understand how periodised training works? That way you get to train to the way you respond to training. Maybe she uses that kind of feedback but if you just try to stick to a generic program it doesn't always work so well... Here's my 2c worth, from reading and experience. First, rest weeks shouldn't mean too much time off the bike. Then, using the principles of periodisation, you can adapt your schedule to how strong you feel. This is what I understand about how periodised programs work, and where rest and recovery fits in: Periodisation works in macro cycles of four weeks so that you build a base (4 to 12 weeks - aerobic) then strength and speed (4 to 8 weeks - tempo, sprints, hills and leg speed drills) and then taper (1 to 2 weeks - cutting volume not intensity)and race. You pick one or two races a season to hit with your best and plan these cycles around that. For the micro cycles within each macro phase, you follow an increase of volume mainly but also intensity over 3 weeks and then drop down to the second week's volume in the fourth week. For the next 4-week cycle you pick up where you were in the third week aiming to build a 10% increase between weeks. I focus my increase mainly on my long rides, going from 50km one week to 55 to 60 then drop to 50/55 depending on how strong I'm feeling. Then start the next 4 weeks at 55 say. Within each week you can do anything from 3 to 6 rides, of 1 to 2hrs, with 4 to 5 being most realistic unless you're unemployed! After your base phase (I build progressively from 60% to 75-80% HR using the max HR minus resting HR [called HR reserve] x % plus resting HR formula) you need to do one hills (tempo 10 min building to 30mins intervals, +-80% HR) one sprints (4 to 8 varying from 30s to 2min as close to max HR and cadence as you can) and one long ride. Best is two longish rides back to back if you're training for multiple-stage races. Even if not, to have a long ride at 80% followed by another at much lower intensity the next day has a huge impact on your fitness. The other thing is to make sure you recover properly between micro and macro cycles. If you're tired or can't get you HR up then you need to rest. As they say, it's when you rest that you're building fitness, which is why periodisation works. And why you need to have more weeks aerobic base training than you do for the power and speed phase... I'm sure you're doing a lot of this already, but it's getting the proportions right in each phase and then using the 3 weeks up, one week down, cycle that really lets you make the most of limited time. Hope I haven't gone on too much. And hope this helps. Now, can anyone tell me what to do about age and weight??
  15. To watch is how fast your HR drops after intense exercise. Yonks ago our judo master used to have us do this. Take your pulse immediately when you stop intense exercise (say your 183) and again 1 or 2 min later. you see this on the bike as well - as your fitness improves, you recover faster from intense efforts which means your heart rate drops faster. Maybe that's the formula your looking for?? Might be something... There's also that heart rate variability thing which you need a HRM/computer to measure. Far as I know all this just helps you see if your training is working and is not about measuring yourself against others...
  16. The question here I think was to have an idea of how what you're doing on a stationary bike compares with outdoor performance... almost impossible to work out which is why I'd plug for using a HRM. Personally I avoid spinning classes and have a specific plan that fits with my outdoor riding. That way you can make use of even minimal time on the bike. Using an IDT might be best but I enjoy (!!?!!) working out in the gym on my own mission. Doing intervals at home wouldn't be the same. For one thing nobody to laugh at you when you fall off a stationary bike **~)
  17. On topic; Looks like you're not going to get a reliable speed value but... gym bikes can be great (when you can't ride outside, or for specific training) because riding conditions are constant. I never really worry about speed and even though it's hard to figure from one session to another exactly what resistance is applied on the bikes I use, they still work well especially for increasing leg speed and interval training. If you use a heart-rate monitor, even better. Then use the cadence meter to do power intervals at 50-60rpm, tempo at 70-90rpm or speed at 100+rpm. So time and cadence is more important to know than km/h or distance cycled... I 'switched' to road cycling recently and have found this incredibly beneficial especially for raising my cadence (and speed) on the road... But you probably knew all that already!
  18. Sharp. Took you 4 minutes to figure that out. Past your bed time??
  19. More fun than editing your own post, don't you think?? *~)
  20. How fast the wheel spins. Duh.
  21. Would depend on gearing - what sprocket you're in and then what speed you're turning at (cadence). But I'm not sure how that works on fixed-wheel spinning bikes where you're using resistance to control your speed?? Don't see how you can work it out 'cos there's no clear relationship between this resistance and cadence that you can use... But gym bikes with speedos are making a calculation, based on what?? I'd like to know as I've wondered how 30km/hr compares on one of those with the real thing...
  22. Not there, but I've had bikes buzz me the same way, well over 120 as they're overtaking cars and leaving them in their dust. Seem to think it's funny - or maybe I'm prey?? If oom tjops clips me can't see how he can avoid coming down at that speed. Maybe the thinking part of "think bike" IS the bike??
  23. Going to see you there... no way can I afford that. Make my own rides, take my chances.
  24. gogo@

    Argus 2012

    Def going for 2nd... 1st was an absolute blast... Had to go careful cos of cramps from Smits (no surprise, no distance in training) but overtook LOADS after Chappies. and Boyes Drive wasn't such a big deal (no wind tho!) Did my first LSD yesterday and already further. Also in for Die Burger... If you haven't done the Argus before, don't listen to the yawns... it's really worth it, even/especially at the back! I've heard so much moaning but then I wonder if those peeps actually enjoy cycling anymore??
  25. Sorry, no... not even a bicycle... I've had countless bad experiences of shopping for a bike with small frame - small, not extra small!! If it's not on the floor, you can't have it, the don't stock it and probably don't make it anymore... being a woman makes it worse. Talking gear ratios, sprockets and spokes helps a bit, but they still think you're so dumb you'll just try out the medium in bike X when you want Y. Easier to use sizing charts and buy blind from hubbers!! Cheaper too and I got basically a brand-new bike at 2nd hand price. Don't know how shops survive with that attitude.
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