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mach7-7

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Everything posted by mach7-7

  1. The following works for me: For races: Hammer HEED (expensive hence for races only) For short sprint rides and anyride shorter or equal to 1hour: just plain water For longer rides:1 hour upwards: 1 x Isostar Powertabs in a large water bottle plus some plain water in my hydration pack. They say you should train with what you race with..... wish I could
  2. Would love to see someone lubing the chain and drive system while riding.... My guess is, you wouldn't be on your bike for too long as you get better results applying lube to your chain at the cluster point. "Rock n Roll" orange lube is a wet lube and works brilliantly. If you lube with dry lube and everything cakes up with mud then a shot of water from your bottle is your only hope or a deep puddle.
  3. Hi guys. Lets not confuse profile with width. Width being your 2.1", 2.2, 2.4 etc. Profile being the height from the edge of the wheel rim to the top of the tyre knob. Profile is another figure which should read something like: 59-XXXX etc. obviously this will change from manufacturer to manufacturer based on their width measurements not all being the same. Eg: a conti 2.2" is very difficult to say a Kenda 2.2",especially when comparing UST models. There is no clear cut rule to how you measure a width of a tyre as various methods are used. I am running a Conti mountain King UST 2.2 on the front and it looks more like a 1.95 - 2.00" width. It has a much lower profile than the tyres which I have previously used but I have seen to cons to this so far. It sheds mud, water and anything in its way with ease. I would recommend this to anyone. I am still running a Specialized Captain Control 2.00 on the rear ( wider than the mountain king front with a bigger profile). I know the preference is to run wider front than rear, but in my case this works for the moment and resistance is negligable. When its time to replace, I will either fit a Mountain King or Race King 2.2" UST. (By the way, my wheels are 26's). My home trail is Tokai Forest and these tyres are wicked.
  4. Jason Statham AKA "The Transporter"" he's your man.... But remember all of his rules
  5. Stans sealant is great and add some CO2 bombs with regulator
  6. If the above deal is still available, TAKE IT!!
  7. Also really biased cos I got one, but Anthem is the way to go!!
  8. I have replaced both of those items before and have noticed the following: 1: Replaced Tora 318 with Rock Shox SID Worldcup ( Major weight saving, caused the bikes balance to be 50/50). 2: Upgraded to Full Tubeless Wheelset. Trimmed off some weight obviously to losing the tubes. Imrpoved rolling resistance. Both these upgrades were throughly worth it. However, I noticed the fork to be more beneficial. Obviously weight saving but added control and more confidence in technical single track areas. Change the fork and enjoy the added weight of your wheels on the downhills . Provided you have good brakes you should pass quite a few people....... HA HA!!
  9. Hey BigBen, I have had an Edge 305 for around 2 years now. I was lucky enough to pick up the 305 with cadence sensor as a complete package for bang on R3000-00. It is a very good piece of kit. The Edge 205 did not sell as well as the 305 so I think most dealers pushed the latter model. Why wear 2 devices (HR and ride statistics) when you can have one that displays all the fields that you require? You say cadence is of no use to you....... I find my cadence sensor an invaluable training tool. Its always good to know your rpm as you go from flat to hills and as this determines how much load you are putting on your legs during long distance races. Nothing is worse than having tired jelly legs with half the distance to go Elevation is also another good feature. If you have the opportunity to study course profiles prior to race day then you will know the altitudes of all the main hills. Couple that up with the Edge 305 and you won't be wondering what is coming next while expending all of your energy way to early before the summit is reached. I can always tell just from elevation how close I am to beginning my descent. Hope this sways you, but if you can only afford the 205 then go for it. Ciao
  10. Firstly what make and model are your brakes? I would start by making sure that your caliper is centred with respect to your disc ( rotor). After rocky rides, sometimes the caliper bolts work their way loose causing the caliper to float and the one piston extends more than the other one at times. Obviously each piston should move an equal distance which means your pads should wear evenly if sharing the friction 50/50. This will definitely affect the overall distance of brake lever travel. Secondly, as mentioned above by another hubber, re-bleed your braking system. Shimano systems are a breeze while the Avid systems are more difficult and may require your local bike shop for assistance. There should never be a reason to swap calipers around just for the hell of it. They either function correctly or they don't ( due to seized pistons or worn out seals). hope this helps Cheers
  11. Did u mean new car as in brand spanking new or are you wanting to upgrade? 2nd hand Mini Cooper S is so much fun to drive (go-kart like handling), although not always the most practical Might be crap to attach a bike rack to..... Also, they seem to hold resale value. I guess it depends on what you want in a car...
  12. Hey, Thanks alot man. Ja, u are right, I was once in the water riding a morey.... I now prefer the awesome sport of Mountain biking, don't have to look over my shoulder for any sharks! Thanks again for the welcome, Cheers
  13. Conti M'Kings are really great tyres. If you are not racing competitively and enjoy weekend trail riding, (weight not being an issue) then the 2.4" would probably suit you better. Conti's are known to be a bit undersized ( especially the UST versions) so the 2.4" will give you more volume mainly due to the increased profile of the tyre. I think my brother payed around R280-00 per tyre for the 2.4"s tube version. Overall, a great all round tyre with great control and good rolling resistance. I run them in 2.2" UST's for XC race and can't complain
  14. I got an Anthem X LTD. By the way, my figures are in psi and my weight is including all of my gear
  15. Yip, Dirtbreath is right. I am riding an Anthem with the Maestro rear link and identical shock. I weigh arounf 65kg and find my pressure to be around 115 - 120. This gives me around 6 - 8mm of sag and suits my riding well. After a series of single track, I find the o-ring on the shock's shaft to rest about 4mm from the "bottoming out" point. (end of shaft). Hope this helps. The type of rear suspension on your bike and general position of your shock ( vertically vs horizontally placed) will affect psi values. Happy biking
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