Ox_Wagon

For it to be apple to apple comparison you need to get hold of a performance hybrid. The ones that are a road bike with a flat bar fitted. You have all the pros of a road bike with a slightly more upright riding position. Then just add some bar-ends if you feel you need a more aero position. I agree with the other guys, stay away from the leisure/comfort hybrids. They are not appropriate for longer rides . <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I second the triple crank set (or compact crank set) recommendation if you are going for a road bike. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Most manufactures make them but as usual not many importers bring them in.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> There are basically three types of hybrids: 1) Performance hybrids: Road bikes with flat handlebars. (The fastest, harsher ride) http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/2008/road/fx/76fxwsd/ 2) Leisure hybrids: Road bike wheeled mountain bikes. (Don?t like them) 3) Rigid MTB hybrids: Rigid MTB with road cranks and skinny wheels (More versatile, softer ride) Performance hybrids can be converted from ?n normal road bike, just remember that the front shifter pod (Shimano) must be road specific. There is a difference between the chain ring spacing between road and MTB crank sets. MTB hybrid is a lot easier if you don?t worry about running out of speed with the normal mtb crank set. Take a rigid MTB change the cassette to a road cassette preferably with an 11 or 12 small sprocket and put on skinny slicks. I build my pavement special hybrid out of a GT road frame, 7 speed Shimano 600 lifted of an old hansom frame. I use the down tube shifter for the front derailleur and a 7sp mtb shifter pod for the rear derailleur. I used cheap Tektro MTB brake levers with the Shimano 105 calipers. All for less than R1000. Ox_Wagon2007-09-13 03:41:13

Continental Town-Country?s 1.9? is also a nice all-round tire if you what to do some dirt road riding too. I was using very cheap kenda 1.5? tires on my hardtail before I got my road bike. My only argus was done using this setup. We where going through Fishhoek when the bunch in front of me split open like Moses parting the <?:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Red sea. I was already over the killer manhole cover before I realized what happened. On a road bike I most probably would have gone down .<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I would also vote for a hybrid, Flat bared road bike or rigid MTB with road crankset and skinny slick tires. I have ridden the 94.7 with a MTB, Hybrid and Road bike and prefer the Hybrid. The flat bars, with easy access to the brakes, just feels more secure. The ride of a MTB slick is also less harsh than that of a road tire.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Irrespective of what you get I would recommend that the bike should have a triple or compact crank set with a generous rear cassette (25-26 big sprocket). You don?t what her to grind away in a too big a gear going up the first hill. I realy like the following Wheeler.

I agree. I only have one set of wheels that can be classified as training wheels. After breaking a few spokes (also carrying an extra 20kg) I asked my LBS to build me bomb proof wheels. I originally purchased the wheels second hand with a group set. They have standard campy hubs, DRC st17 rear rim and Rigida china front rim. The LBS re-spoked the wheels with strait gauge (2mm) DT spokes and also added brass washers to the hub side of the spokes (J bend side). He basically build the wheel in a similar manner to a tandem wheel. To this I added ultra cheap wire beaded Maxxis Detonator that I don?t mind to use on the trainer as well as the road. I am a mtber with a tendency to ride a bit ham fisted, plowing through road debris and hitting cat eyes. I would also consider, in hind sight, getting 25mm tires instead of 23mm. So far I have had really good service from these wheels.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Ox_Wagon2007-09-13 02:08:44

Just when you think everything is sorted out Mavic comes along and brings out a new 2008 wheel set that CAN take compression force. Interesting enough it is to improve the lateral stiffness of the wheel. They have a nice website that sorts out the whole argument. As they say in the movies ?I rest my case?. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> http://www.mavic.com/r-sys/

Ok, let?s try again?.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The figures below show the interface between a spoke and high end aero rim. In figure A the spoke is under tension in other words pulling. Everything is fine in that the spoke is pulling the internal nipple in to the rim. In figure B the spoke is in compression or pushing (standing). In this case the nipple is pushed away from the rim wall. So the only way it would be able to support weight is if it hits the underside of the face that the tubbies are glued to. Not good. In short, all spokes, due to pre-tensioning, should always be under tension. The amount of tension varies as the wheel rotate with the top spokes experiencing a higher tension than the bottom spokes. Spokes should preferably never see a compression (pushing) loading as they will simply flop around loosely.

Grant's Cycles in Centurion had one of those GT for about the same price.

Are you based in the WP or GP? What shop stock 29" stuff? <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I see WTB also have 29" tires but then again it is only relevant if it is brought in ZA.

How is the availability of 29? tires and tubes?(WP/GP) I must say 26 to 29? is quite a stretch. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

The Cyclelab guys where saying something about getting in some 29" 2008 Gary Fishers and Treks. The 29er Treks are interesting as they run a MX bike type setup with a 26" rear wheel and 29" front wheel. They are available in single speed, hard tail and full suspension formats. They look strange but may work quite nice. The practicality of carrying to sets of spare tubes is a bit of a bummer.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/2008/mountain_full_suspension/top_fuel_69er/topfuel69er

So you say it works according to the following principal Sorry no amount of pulling on something will make it possible to push on it. It is like saying that if you stand on a piece of rope and now pull on it hard enough it will magically support your weight. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I was enjoying the thread up to the point where it was stated that wheels ?stand? on it spokes. I was shocked to read the same thing in the Bicycling a few years ago. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The reality is that the hub hangs from the top spokes in a similar way as a suspension bridge. The mechanical interface between the spokes and rim does not allow any compression force to be transferred. Some high end hubs like Mavic and Campy also does not allow compression force to be transferred between the hub and the spokes. That is why spokes like spinery?s PBO work. http://www.spinergy.com/Bicycle/tech_specialFeature_PBO.html

Sorry UCI will not allow it.....

So what is up with the MTBers at the race leaving trash like punctured inner tubes and gel satchel next to the trail? <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I have the following: https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=12300&KW I can add old styl road peddals

Heard good things about their bike especially the tri bikes:<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/07bikesfinal/07-guru-geneo.shtml http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/07bikesfinal/07-guru-crono.shtml Some more http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/reviews/index.shtml http://www.trigearreview.com/forms/Article.aspx?REVID=360

Sorry to hijack your thread again.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Firstly the jersey look awesome. Just two comments on the anatomic version of the jersey design. The bubble bee black strip on the back REDUCES visibility where you need it the most. Secondly I liked the original design with the motorcycle on the one pocket and the bicycle on the other.

If you are into multisports there are few running clubs(with a cycling problem etc) that you can get your cycling and running licences through. Florida and the AR Club comes to mind in JHB. In Pretoria there is Enduro.

CL

Would you guys consider making day-glo, with reflective strips, Think Bike Cycling jerseys similar to the bike bibs. That is of course if there is a market for is. Maybe a straw poll on the hub may be indicative.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I would prefer to be as visible as possible while training. But you never know with fashion conscious roadies.

Here is some more options. http://www.solomons.co.za/?q=taxonomy/term/13&page=2 You would need to phone for a price on the SID, Tora or pilot. Or SID world Cup R1200 (2003) Marzocchi Marathon SL R1800 (2003) SID Team R2200 (2005) Fos 100RL R4000 (2006) at http://www.bikebay.co.za/Export/ExportParts.aspx

Beee, I have no problem with the NRS. It is simply the way I read the reviews. At one stage I was seriously considering buying a second hand one. The guy changes his mind about selling the bike. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The general impression that I got from the reviews was that the rear suspension was ?n bit harsh and not as active as some other frames. This is not a bad thing if you are looking for hard tail type performance. http://www.whatmtb.com/biketestdetails.asp?id=592 http://www.whatmtb.com/biketestdetails.asp?id=541 I must say that I will be a bit worry to buy any carbon frame second hand as it is a lot harder to determine if the frame has picked up damage. But I most probably would be scraping the money together if I was in noChain shoes. All this talk of damaged frames makes me wonder if anybody knows who makes nice STEEL frame full sussers?..

Go and read some reviews here: http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/xc_full_suspension/product_123166.shtml Focus on the negative. You should then have a good Idee what could go wrong.