<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> After looking at all the hubber advise I decided skip a few intermediate steps and go as high-tech as possible??. Front Suspension travel: 11.3? Rear Suspension travel: 11.6? Front Tire width: 3.15? Rear Tire width: 4.75? It should make short work of any marathon event. I will definitively feel fresher after an event on one of these. PS: It comes standard with mud guards. Ox_Wagon2007-11-30 04:56:05
a Friend of mine wrote of a Diamondback Ascent frame in the same way, bend at the down tube and cracked the toptube, when he hit a hole hidden in long grass. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
I still ride my early 90s Mongoose Iboc Team (steel frame) but stay away from the Aluminum IBOC Teams with the triangular toptube. They have a tendency to break behind the headset. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
For technical stuff check Sheldon Browns website first, 9 out of 10 times the info is there. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html Interesting he mentioned that Canti brakes levers may cause problem with Vees. Some Tectro Levers have two positions for cable attachment. One for Cantis and the second for Vees (They require longer pull). Check if yours are on the right setting if it has the option.
When I studied I commuted on what my dad called a Plumbers job (Tubes made of lead pipe). I ended up install purma tubes. It was amazing the amount of part that simply died from fatigue, including two forks. I have nice scars to show after a catastrophic fork failure. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
Disc are supposed to better in muddy condition where the rim is coated with mud (grinding paste). This causes accelerated rim wear if you?re using Vees or cantys. Added to that there is an obvious reduction of performance. After the mud fest 6hr ride my rims had a nice wire brushed finished. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Due to the cost implications of going to disc it may be worthwhile to replace the pads first(good quality) and take the bike to a reputable LBS so that they can set it up. If you are still unhappy then look at discs. Ox_Wagon2007-11-27 23:37:30
Get the Vees set up properly. I am at the heavy side of thing and my 15year old cantilever brakes (before Vees) can lock up both my wheels. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Remember the switch to Disc are going to cost you an arm and a leg. Your frame, fork and hubs need to be disc ready. If not it would be almost cheaper to buy a new bike than upgrade. If you still interested, Try CWC and Bike Hut. KCNC http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product_cat_brand.php?idbrand=53&idcategory=32 Avid http://www.bikehut.co.za/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=40 Ox_Wagon2007-11-27 08:23:44
You say make is as ruff and technical as possible and the turn around and use technolagy to make it smooth manicured paths, THAT defeats the object. Don?t take it so seriously.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> To make it hard core it should be as ruff and technical as possible and on a rigid single speed.
Are MTB race routes designed with the assumption that people will be riding full suspension bikes? The 45km(?) Cradle to Cave route had a lot of fun section and way to many not so fun section where the course cuts across fields with clumps of grass(?Gras polle?) that rattles the fillings out of your teeth. These sections are almost unrideable on a hardtail and really unenjoyable. I don?t know if it is any better on a full susser? I expect to get a few replays of ?If you can?t stand the heat stay out of the kitchen?.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Now for a philosophical question for all the full sussers, from someone considering going that route: ?What is the use of mountain biking if you insolate your self from environment by a hi-tech suspension system that soaks up the irregularities??
As promised. I did the Cradle to Cave with the Conti Mountain King. The biggest improvement over my very old WTB Primalraptors was caused by the increase in size from 1.95? to 2.2?. The larger size rolls over obstacle a lot better. The tire seams to be a very good all-rounder, handling the different surface of the race faultlessly. That is of course at my more sedate pace. I will in future start experimenting with running them at a lower pressure.<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
Agh, no man, that is old school......... The basic design of the "safety bike" is more than 100 years old. Older even than the aeroplane and we stil riding in the same old position thanks to the UCI. Now, recumbents are modern.
MTB tires:<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The verity of terrain in which MTB tires operate makes it a bit more difficult. That is why you will find different tire for different types of conditions. The harder the surface the more important the compound of the rubber becomes. On slick rock/road the tire will behave like a road tire. Mud tires are a species on there own. Let?s look at the typical in-between condition where the opposite of a road tire condition happens. The soil/sand/small rocks molds to the tire which means that shape, position and orientation of the knobblies becomes more important and not the compound of the tire. The next thing to remember is that that you want different things from the front and rear tire. Traction is the most important factor for a rear tire and braking is more important on a front tire although I personally rate not washing out higher. All of this is irrelevant if the thread is symmetrical. This is not always the case from there the rotational direction arrows on MTB tire. Dirt rider?s Maxis TT is a very good example. The tire is symmetrical except for one small thing. It has a hard edge on one side of the knobbly and ramped on the other side (similar to the Negaval, Small block 8). You would like to use the sharp edge to generate more traction on the rear tire and more braking on the front tire. This means you will run then in different direction. To come back to the original question of the thread. On the Speed/Mountain King there is a deferens if you look closely at the knobblies shape and layout but I don?t think it is such a big issue to warrant going through the slep of changing a tubbless tire. Ox_Wagon2007-11-22 00:29:36
