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So i do have a question on front suspension travel , i currently have a 100mm manitou markhor on a size XL titan racing drone frame , bike is one size to big for me as i should ride a size large , i have a lyne amp bar (760mm with 12mm rise ) and a lyne amp stem (60mm) (31.8mm clamp dia) If i want to change the travel on my fork shoul i get a negative stem and a flat bar for the same feeling or should i just leave it on a 100mm , or will be messing up the geometry of the bike? Note that i do race competitive xco But 100mm on a hardtail is not enought for my weight (78kg)

Hi all So I have recently bought myself a fork with a touch of stanchion wear but great condition other than that. Now I am just wondering what do you guys do in general to prevent further wear from here on out. For now I plan on replacing the dust seals and doing an overall service just for peace of mind but don't know what else I can do to prevent it from wearing down even more. Is there a specific brand of dust seal that can help with this? What are some good dust seals/ service kits you guys would recommend for a rockshox sid/reba? This is a bit of a question on the side, but what causes stanchion wear exactly? My other fork (fox) I've had for over 4 years that I used on a daily basis (commuting and mountain biking) but it never picked up stanchion wear. But I am just curious as to what does cause the wear, is it just dust seals' material that gets harder over time and causes more wear because you don't service the fork, fork oil that lube the seals that runs out? Thank you all!

Hi all! I have had my Manitou Markhor 100mm fork for about 2years now. Serviced the fork at my LBS after 2000km on it. They just cleaned everything out and put new oil in. I have noticed some play on the dustseals. Is that normal or would that need to be replaced? Headset bearings feel fine and front caliper and wheel is tightened. Also not the brake pads. Have any of you had the same problem? What would the fix be?Forks came on my Merida Big Nine 500 2019

The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!

Take a trip back to the early days of full-suspension mountain bikes with "Full Travel", a documentary from GT Bicycles which tells the story of their suspension development. Click here to view the article

Hi, I am looking for a dual suspension bike, a lot of what is on the site are older than 5 years. How sure am I that the shocks (suspension) is decent and don't need to be replaced once i buy. Is there a way to know or test the shocks? How long would a shock actually last before needing to be replaced?

Was looking at various things last night and came across dual rate springs in motorcycling and wondered why these aren't available in MTB more. I can see that maybe a lot of the progression in the rear can be built into the frame with the leverage ratio / characteristics of the linkage design. I wondered what the reasons were that these aren't an option for those who what the small bump, no stiction benefits of the coil but have a bit of linear frame. With Cane Creek and others pumping coil forks and the coil upgrades that are being released Is this something we might see more towards the fork part than on rear shocks. @Droo??

Im graduating from roadie to mtb after 30 years, but have never kept up with the techno side, so ive been looking, what is the ,if any, major diffirance in handling / feel between a mtb fitted with a vertical mount shock, or a horizontal one. .? Just an interesting point, in the 80's motorbikes went from 2 vertical mounts to one horizontal, it really smoothed the ride, no pogo bouncing.

I’m working on a Rock Shox Recon (120 mm RL Silver 29" non-boost). The lockout wasn’t having any effect, so I’ve opened up the damper to investigate. It looks to me like the base plate orientation is wrong, so that in the open position it is covering the fluid ports, and in the closed / locked position one of the fluid ports is partly exposed. Here is the base plate with the top adjuster in the open position: Here is the top adjuster in the open position (ie fully anti-clockwise) that positions the base plate as shown above: Here is the base plate with the top adjuster in the closed / locked position: Here is the top adjuster in the closed / locked position (ie fully clockwise) that positions the base plate as shown above: If I try rotating the base plate 180° and then locating it on the adjuster shaft, it sits at a slight angle, partly raising it from the yellow plate: So that won’t work, as the fluid will be able to flow freely in any position. As far as I can tell, the only way to solve this and get the base plate oriented correctly relative to the top adjuster would be to rotate it where it’s fitted into the black shaft locator in the bottom assembly: But I’m not sure how it’s fixed in there – is it threaded, glued, or pressed? Is there any way to safely remove or rotate it without breaking something? Or any other thoughts or suggestions?

Steve Bowman, Fox South Africa brand manager, takes us through a basic fork service. In this video, Steve shows us the process of removing the lower legs, cleaning and checking the fork, and how to reassemble the fork. Click here to view the article

A mountain bike suspension fork requires regular care. Steve Bowman has two simple tips to keep your fork sliding smoothly. Click here to view the article

A mountain bike suspension fork needs regular cleaning and servicing to continue operating optimally without causing damage. If done correctly, your fork should last the life time of the bike. Here's a guide on when you should be servicing your fork and what signs of wear to look out for. Click here to view the article

Announced in April this year, the 32 Step-Cast (SC) fork is the lightest cross-country fork Fox has produced starting at around 1,355 grams. Designed and optimized for 100 mm travel from the outset, the 32 SC has some unique features. Click here to view the article

Six of the bicycle industry’s main suspension manufacturers announced today that, beginning with model year 2017 bicycles, consumers will see several new shock lengths and fitment options. Click here to view the article

Hi guys I need some technical assistance. Please view the attached pictures... I have purchased a second hand fork, if one looks at the images, the new fork is missing "the black ring" that goes on to the base of the steerer. Is this a separate part that I need to buy or can I remove it from my current fork? Also, what is called if I need to buy a new one. The previous owner had an adapter as he used it on a bike with a tapered headset.

Hey guys I am struggling to decide which fork to buy. I have a Momsen AL329 frame (tapered). I dont have a huge budget and I have been looking at: RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air RockShox XC 32 TK Solo Air Forks Suntour Raidon RST First I Cant find the Rockshox forks at any of the shops near me, they mostly only sell the Reba. I have seen it on CRC for affordable prices. Do you guys have any recommendations on these forks, and also where to get a good deal on them. I would prefer to buy locally, in the JHB area as I would also like to have the steerer cut (if need be) Im not overly keen on buying second hand as most of the forks that I have seen for under R3k look like they have been through the wars.