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I bought a new bike just under a month ago with a SRAM 2x10 setup (coming from a Shimano 3x10). I always though the lowest and highest gears would be the same, with just fewer options in between, which suited me just fine.

 

My new bike rides like a preprogrammed machine in Groenkloof, Fountains, Voortrekker and Klapperkop. During the 94.7 (with slicks) I never moved off the big blade and held my own between the road bikes - though I'm sure a faster group would have left me wanting.

 

This past weekend was my first serious climb (Breedt's Neck). I thought I struggled more than usual getting up and over, but on the way back climbed with a friend for a while (3x9) and was shocked to realise that his cadence was much higher than mine while moving the same speed. I only then realised that my new granny is not as much granny as my previous granny.

 

Though this instilled new fear for Sabie I actually prefer training on the higher ratio.

 

I'm not an A batch rider, but I think the more you train strength, the less you use the lower ratios. I would love to be able to ride big 1x10, but I still need that small blade to get me over big climbs.

  • 5 months later...

I bought a new bike just under a month ago with a SRAM 2x10 setup (coming from a Shimano 3x10). I always though the lowest and highest gears would be the same, with just fewer options in between, which suited me just fine.

 

My new bike rides like a preprogrammed machine in Groenkloof, Fountains, Voortrekker and Klapperkop. During the 94.7 (with slicks) I never moved off the big blade and held my own between the road bikes - though I'm sure a faster group would have left me wanting.

 

This past weekend was my first serious climb (Breedt's Neck). I thought I struggled more than usual getting up and over, but on the way back climbed with a friend for a while (3x9) and was shocked to realise that his cadence was much higher than mine while moving the same speed. I only then realised that my new granny is not as much granny as my previous granny.

 

Though this instilled new fear for Sabie I actually prefer training on the higher ratio.

 

I'm not an A batch rider, but I think the more you train strength, the less you use the lower ratios. I would love to be able to ride big 1x10, but I still need that small blade to get me over big climbs.

 

Perhaps look @ the Sram 2x10 cranks with 24/38 rings ?

 

I currently ride a 26" bike with 3x9 gears.

If I was ever to get a 29'er with 2x10 drivetrain, I would get that crank with a 11-36 cassette. From my calcs, it would give me a similar gear range.

2x10 for show.

3x10 for go.

 

If you have a dedicated XC bike then 2x10 will work - 1x10 with a chain guide will work better.

 

If you have a dedicated Marathon bike same thing - maybe not 1x10 though.

 

If you want one bike that will conquer all then 3x10. It's a no brainer.

 

Everybody yelled with joy when cassette's went from 7 to 8 to 9 to 10 - yay more choice they said. Now they're yelling "yay - less choice". Me - I don't see the logic.

 

The shifting is worse - the range is smaller - the only upside I see is a 60g-100g weight saving.

 

Someone please explain to me how worse shifting and less gear choice is a good thing?

Will be going back to 3x10 as finding 2x10 does not have the range. Riding 26er with 28/42 chainrings and 11-36 cassette. Missing another smaller gear for the rocky 26% climbs and another bigger gear for the faster sections ... which is what 3x10 has.

Exactly. Also changing back to 3x10. Checked the gear ratios and the 2x10 looses 2 gears on granny side and 2 on top end side compared to 3x10. So for steep 26% rocky climbs the 2x10 is a compromise and an extra gear or 2 is useful for many of us. Likewise for the faster sections where a bigger chainring helps. Those with the power of Kevin Evans etc can get away with fewer granny gears and push big blades, so 2x10 is no problem for them. Same for long days in the saddle, a 3x10 comes in handy after 5+ hours.

I have a 26er - 3x10 and a 29er 2x10 ------------- and you know what I love both of them !!

2x10 just feels more efficient and yes 3x10 gives 1 more stop at each end of the range - so what ??

And I'm begining to get a feel for the type of track each is best suited for !

So ................ just maybe the 2x10 is making me a more efficient rider ???

 

Now I'm sure that will open a fair bit of descussion

Exactly. Also changing back to 3x10. Checked the gear ratios and the 2x10 looses 2 gears on granny side and 2 on top end side compared to 3x10.

 

Depends really on what ratios you're running. I have a 22-36 up front so I only lose top end which is more than okay. Never used big blade anyway so nothing lost.

Why is the shifting worse on a 2x10?

 

It's a bit of a theoretical versus practice thing but the bigger the jump in teeth size the worse the shifting - 2x10 has a bigger jump in teeth size than 3x10 so shifting should be (theoretically) worse. Practically it's probably not even noticable and I would not have even mentioned it if SRAM hadn't added "faster shifting" to their 2x10 marketing campagin. Faster shifting from a bigger jump in teeth size? I'd love to see SRAM's reasoning behind that... Like I said though - practically no-one will notice but at best 2x10 will be worse than 3x10.

 

SRAM 2X10

 

FASTER, LIGHTER, MORE EFFICIENT

SRAM 2X10 delivers maximum functionality and minimum complexity with faster shifting, more efficiency and lighter weight across a full range of gears. SRAM 2X10 takes advantage of XX technologies like X-Glide shifting, X-Dome cassettes and wide-range gearing. It gives you a drivetrain ready for any XC, Trail or All-Mountain adventure. SRAM 2X10 doesn’t mean more gears, it means THE RIGHT GEAR .

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