MTB Tyre Choices

[Odinson]

all of the above apart from the DH bike and fast.

 

Seriously, though. I'm sick of flimsy casings and the problems that come with them. From now on, ONLY SG / GRID / Black Diamond. Maxxis... until the Exo plus comes out, I'll say that they're the most frequently punctured tyres in my riding group. DD / Exo whatever. 

 

I'm MIGHTILY impressed with Super Gravity casings. Those things are just suuuper strong, and fend off pinches and rocks like Nina Agdal swipes off tinder matches. 

 

EXO+ is going to be great when it's released. There's a day and night difference between EXO and DD. DD is not far off of a proper DH tire. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

EXO+ is going to be great when it's released. There's a day and night difference between EXO and DD. DD is not far off of a proper DH tire. 

yeah, except there have been too many snakeys amongst my riding mates on DD casings, even with DD foamos in the rear. It seems that the butyl insert doesn't extend as far up the sidewalls as the one in a Schwalbe SG does (halfway up the sidewall vs all the way to the tread) and on the SG tyres you also get the Snakeskin outer layer which is tough as nails. 

 

I know it's an N=3 anecdote, but still. Even off the bike, the SG seems to be a tougher casing than the DD. 

Edited January 10, 2019 by Captain Fatbastard Mayhem

[Natie S]

Good evening everyone

Im very new to mtb. I have the standard specialized tires on my rockhopper expert. I’m going over to tubeless now and have ordered the maxxis ikon 29” 2.2 for front and rear on recommendation of the guys i ride with that have a lot of experience. They also tide with these tires. The local bike store i buy from recommend a fast rolling rear tyre 2.2 and a grid 2.35 in front.

 

I ride mostly trails here in kzn and once a week tar. Did i make the correct decision? Want to maybe ride an enduro race or 2 this year.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Good evening everyone

Im very new to mtb. I have the standard specialized tires on my rockhopper expert. I’m going over to tubeless now and have ordered the maxxis ikon 29” 2.2 for front and rear on recommendation of the guys i ride with that have a lot of experience. They also tide with these tires. The local bike store i buy from recommend a fast rolling rear tyre 2.2 and a grid 2.35 in front.

 

I ride mostly trails here in kzn and once a week tar. Did i make the correct decision? Want to maybe ride an enduro race or 2 this year.

Ikon is a good tyre for XC, but in 2.2 guise it won't offer much in the way of grip out front. With regard to the "grid" that you mention, that's a Specialized casing name, so are you getting Spaz tyres, or is that just the recommendation of your local Spaz store?

 

If you're looking at racing / riding in a few enduro events in teh future, I'd highly recommend a front tyre with a bit more grip than the Ikon, but in 2.35 guise which will offer better grip, better handling characteristics and better comfort over the 2.2's that you've ordered. 

 

A tyre that may fit the bill for you is the Aggressor, which is more aggressive (grippier) than the Ikon, and will give you substantially more front-end grip than with the Ikon. 

 

For Enduro and general trail riding, though, I'd not go with anything less than a Double-Down casing (maxxis tyres) or GRID casing (Specialized) on the rear  as the normal Exo casings (Maxxis) tend to be a bit weaker than I like, and the Control casings are also in that boat. For the tyres I'd recommend, in Spaz guise it'd be the Ground Control or Slaughter for the rear, and Eliminator for the front, and in Maxxis guise it'd be the Aggressor 2.5 at the back and the Minion 2.5WT for the front. You generally want as much grip as you can get for the front, and a faster rolling tyre (smaller, closer spaced knobs) for the rear. Heavier casing on the rear tyre as that's what takes the brunt of the impact on the trail, especially on a hardtail.

 

Again - Ikons are good tyres, but they're fit for purpose and aimed squarely at the XCO / XCM crowd. Not enduro / trail. Generally speaking, higher volume is better, but then rim width also comes into account and on the stock Rockhopper rims I'd not go bigger than 2.5's at a stretch (Maxxis) and the 2.6 in Spaz tyres (these 2 widths are actually the same, despite the different numbers. It's a difference in how the brands measure their widths)

Edited January 24, 2019 by Captain Fatbastard Mayhem

[Natie S]

Ikon is a good tyre for XC, but in 2.2 guise it won't offer much in the way of grip out front. With regard to the "grid" that you mention, that's a Specialized casing name, so are you getting Spaz tyres, or is that just the recommendation of your local Spaz store?

 

If you're looking at racing / riding in a few enduro events in teh future, I'd highly recommend a front tyre with a bit more grip than the Ikon, but in 2.35 guise which will offer better grip, better handling characteristics and better comfort over the 2.2's that you've ordered.

 

A tyre that may fit the bill for you is the Aggressor, which is more aggressive (grippier) than the Ikon, and will give you substantially more front-end grip than with the Ikon.

 

For Enduro and general trail riding, though, I'd not go with anything less than a Double-Down casing (maxxis tyres) or GRID casing (Specialized) on the rear as the normal Exo casings (Maxxis) tend to be a bit weaker than I like, and the Control casings are also in that boat. For the tyres I'd recommend, in Spaz guise it'd be the Ground Control or Slaughter for the rear, and Eliminator for the front, and in Maxxis guise it'd be the Aggressor 2.5 at the back and the Minion 2.5WT for the front. You generally want as much grip as you can get for the front, and a faster rolling tyre (smaller, closer spaced knobs) for the rear. Heavier casing on the rear tyre as that's what takes the brunt of the impact on the trail, especially on a hardtail.

 

Again - Ikons are good tyres, but they're fit for purpose and aimed squarely at the XCO / XCM crowd. Not enduro / trail. Generally speaking, higher volume is better, but then rim width also comes into account and on the stock Rockhopper rims I'd not go bigger than 2.5's at a stretch (Maxxis) and the 2.6 in Spaz tyres (these 2 widths are actually the same, despite the different numbers. It's a difference in how the brands measure their widths)

Hi.

The grid was just a recommendation from the local store. The guys i ride with said the 2,35 will hold me back a lot as im still unfit and working on it. already got the ikons.

 

Thank you very much for your input. Ill see how it goes and take it from there. But i will definitely take it into consideration with my next order.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Hi.

The grid was just a recommendation from the local store. The guys i ride with said the 2,35 will hold me back a lot as im still unfit and working on it. already got the ikons.

 

Thank you very much for your input. Ill see how it goes and take it from there. But i will definitely take it into consideration with my next order.

Get new friends. Haven't they heard? The only reason to go for 2.2's is to save allll the weight if you're fighting for position at the pointy end of the field, or if you're stuck in 1992. They roll slower, are less comfortable (again, especially on a hardtail) and offer less grip. And an extra 100g on arguably one of the most critical components on a bicycle is a small price to pay for extra grip, extra comfort and better rolling resistance (less deflection, more absorption on the varying terrain and rock / stone / roots. Bigger tyres just roll better, up to a point)

 

Oh. Grid casing = good. It's Spaz's equivalent to Maxxis's Exo & Schwalbe's Snakeskin, but in my experience the Exo casing is a bit less durable than both the Grid & Snakeskin. 

Edited January 24, 2019 by Captain Fatbastard Mayhem

[Natie S]

Get new friends. Haven't they heard? The only reason to go for 2.2's is to save allll the weight if you're fighting for position at the pointy end of the field, or if you're stuck in 1992. They roll slower, are less comfortable (again, especially on a hardtail) and offer less grip. And an extra 100g on arguably one of the most critical components on a bicycle is a small price to pay for extra grip, extra comfort and better rolling resistance (less deflection, more absorption on the varying terrain and rock / stone / roots. Bigger tyres just roll better, up to a point)

 

Oh. Grid casing = good. It's Spaz's equivalent to Maxxis's Exo & Schwalbe's Snakeskin, but in my experience the Exo casing is a bit less durable than both the Grid & Snakeskin.

Haha

Thank you very much. Now that’s how i learn.

[Grease_Monkey]

Hi.

The grid was just a recommendation from the local store. The guys i ride with said the 2,35 will hold me back a lot as im still unfit and working on it. already got the ikons.

 

Thank you very much for your input. Ill see how it goes and take it from there. But i will definitely take it into consideration with my next order.

I would keep that 2.2 on the rear if I was you, take the one from the front off and keep it in your garage to replace the one on the rear once it wear out.

 

A 2.2 Ikon will offer no grip whatsoever on the front wheel. You really have to know what you are doing if you want one of them on the front. I would strongly suggest something like a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Maxxis Aggressor 2.3, or maybe a Maxxis Rekon 2.35.

 

Take it from someone who has seen their ass a couple of times as the result of a 2.2 Ikon on the front wheel - it will not cut it. I tried that combo when I was training for a 180km XC event to minimise roling resistance. And unless you put a real tractor tyre on the front wheel a slightly grippier option will not hold you back.

 

@Myles... you really think Exo casing won't cut it for someone starting out? DD is excessive for most people, you okes on TM are riding rockier trails than the average person. EXO will cut it for 95% of SA riders and trails.

Edited January 24, 2019 by Grease_Monkey

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I would keep that 2.2 on the rear if I was you, take the one from the front off and keep it in your garage to replace the one on the rear once it wear out.

 

A 2.2 Ikon will offer no grip whatsoever on the front wheel. You really have to know what you are doing if you want one of them on the front. I would strongly suggest something like a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Maxxis Aggressor 2.3, or maybe a Maxxis Rekon 2.35.

 

Take it from someone who has seen their ass a couple of times as the result of a 2.2 Ikon on the front wheel - it will not cut it. I tried that combo when I was training for a 180km XC event to minimise roling resistance. And unless you put a real tractor tyre on the front wheel a slightly grippier option will not hold you back.

 

@Myles... you really think Exo casing won't cut it for someone starting out? DD is excessive for most people, you okes on TM are riding rockier trails than the average person. EXO will cut it for 95% of SA riders and trails.

Yeah, most likely re Exo. But that's personal experience, and additional anecdotal experience from riding buddies. Not going to do anything but Black Diamond / Doubledown / Super Grav in the future on the back. Just not worth it with this fat ass and the rocky rock. 

[Grease_Monkey]

Yeah, most likely re Exo. But that's personal experience, and additional anecdotal experience from riding buddies. Not going to do anything but Black Diamond / Doubledown / Super Grav in the future on the back. Just not worth it with this fat ass and the rocky rock.

Hahaha ja I get that - but for you (and maybe me ). But for most other non fatty, non bulldozing over rocks okes/ladies EXO is more than enough

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Hahaha ja I get that - but for you (and maybe me ). But for most other non fatty, non bulldozing over rocks okes/ladies EXO is more than enough

Tell that to Thermophage and Raydek (Cuan and Ray) - both in the low 70's, both utterly destroyed several EXO casings and even a couple DD's. These TM rocks don't play... 

[Grease_Monkey]

Tell that to Thermophage and Raydek (Cuan and Ray) - both in the low 70's, both utterly destroyed several EXO casings and even a couple DD's. These TM rocks don't play...

Fair enough... but let's be honest - your or my riding groups don't represent the average rider at all.

[Natie S]

I would keep that 2.2 on the rear if I was you, take the one from the front off and keep it in your garage to replace the one on the rear once it wear out.

 

A 2.2 Ikon will offer no grip whatsoever on the front wheel. You really have to know what you are doing if you want one of them on the front. I would strongly suggest something like a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Maxxis Aggressor 2.3, or maybe a Maxxis Rekon 2.35.

 

Take it from someone who has seen their ass a couple of times as the result of a 2.2 Ikon on the front wheel - it will not cut it. I tried that combo when I was training for a 180km XC event to minimise roling resistance. And unless you put a real tractor tyre on the front wheel a slightly grippier option will not hold you back.

 

@Myles... you really think Exo casing won't cut it for someone starting out? DD is excessive for most people, you okes on TM are riding rockier trails than the average person. EXO will cut it for 95% of SA riders and trails.

Are you maybe able to give me a guideline on the pressures i should start with?

You know it’s a hard tail bike and im a big guy weighing in @ 120kg.

[Grease_Monkey]

Are you maybe able to give me a guideline on the pressures i should start with?

You know it’s a hard tail bike and im a big guy weighing in @ 120kg.

Okay I take back what I said, DD casing might be the way to go for you haha

 

Start at 2.5 bar (32psi) on the rear wheel and 2.2 bar (29psi) on the front and adjust from there...

[Natie S]

Okay I take back what I said, DD casing might be the way to go for you haha

 

Start at 2.5 bar (32psi) on the rear wheel and 2.2 bar (29psi) on the front and adjust from there...

Ok thanks

Ive been running the tires it came out with on 2 bar for both.

[Grease_Monkey]

Ok thanks

Ive been running the tires it came out with on 2 bar for both.

That is roughly what most people run, but you are a bit heavy, so the added pressure might save you a sidewall cut.