Formula R1 or XTR brakes?

[Meentb]

Formula R1's for the win. Make sure you get them with FCS. You can move the pad a micron at a time

[TAAHIRWP]

I have formula RX brakes with 180mm rotors, assuming it is 2012 because it came as a standard issue on my bike(2012 model).

 

Having come from tektro, juicy 3's and elixers I am really enjoying my formula's. The rear brake bites way quicker than the front and has very little space between rotor and pads. Talking 1.5mm max each side, maybe less. The front brake feel like ABS, haha! Comes to a dead stop on steep mountainous terrain after ±2secs. The space between rotor and pads in the front is much more and adjustment is easy. Also the "bite feel" margin (I don't know how else to describe it) on the front is bigger than at the back. The rear can lock up pretty quick. Front allows me more play. LOVE these brakes!

 

But now I need help, my rear brake squeals like a mouse trapped in a bucket A LOT when climbing (mostly when I'm seated). I find myself very lightly pulling the rear lever in effort to kill the squeal!

 

I suspect the pads are too close to the rotors at the back. Can this be adjusted?

 

Edited June 10, 2014 by TAAHIRWP

[Featherbrew]

 

But now I need help, my rear brake squeals like a mouse trapped in a bucket A LOT when climbing (mostly when I'm seated). I find myself very lightly pulling the rear lever in effort to kill the squeal!

 

I suspect the pads are too close to the rotors at the back. Can this be adjusted?

 

I had the same issue on my 2012 Formula RX until I read somewhere on the Hub that Formula brakes are notorious for going out of alignment and rubbing the rotor if a wheel is removed. The fix is to loosen the 2 bolts holding the brake in place about one turn, pull the break lever once to align the caliper and re-tighten the bolts. Worked like a charm in my case.

 

Alternatively:

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html

 

[GrantRH]

Does any one know in Jhb North where one can get a XTR bleed kit and what oil, I decided I doing the bleed my self from now on.

 

I picked up a Shimano bleed kit from Linden Cycles last year.

[TAAHIRWP]

I had the same issue on my 2012 Formula RX until I read somewhere on the Hub that Formula brakes are notorious for going out of alignment and rubbing the rotor if a wheel is removed. The fix is to loosen the 2 bolts holding the brake in place about one turn, pull the break lever once to align the caliper and re-tighten the bolts. Worked like a charm in my case.

 

Alternatively:

 

http://www.pinkbike....Brake-2011.html

I have been avoiding the whole strip down and sandpaper buzz. I did notice that the rotors bend easily, had then straightened lastweek at my LBS. The sound only went away for one ride, the next day it was back again. I did try the caliper adjustment before, but will give it another shot. Usually I loosen it, shine a torch down the caliper and get it set up like that. Will try the "lever" way. Just to be clear, is there no way I can adjust the pads or make then retract just a wee bit? Also what sits on the inside of the silver plate (or red) with the formula logo printed on it, found on the outer side of the caliper?

[Skylark]

Keep in mind that none of the current Shimano range of brakes are rebuildable, if a lever or calliper fails or leaks you replace the whole unit.

Formula from what I know you can buy seals/rebuild kits. Xtr levers and calipers on their own are hideously expensive if need to repair a set that are out of warranty.

 

[VicanZA]

R1

[the nerd]

Seriously, biggest regret was selling a bike with formula's on. Nothing beats them. I had the RX's and they were old and tatty but worked like nothing else!! Every little tiny piece is replaceable and serviceable, much like Hopes. Shimano is becoming the chinese handcuffs of MTB (Sound guys will know what i mean) where nothing is servicable and there are never spares as the new one has just come out.

[the nerd]

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/92643-formula-r1-brakeset/

[NINER_boy]

I have a RX and R1 brake set, and swear by them and nothing else.

 

RushSports stocks ALL the formula stuff you need.

Feel free to give Andre a call if you do not see on the website what you need.

Very helpful chap.

 

Happy hoopin

[Jacques Viljoen]

+1 Formula I have recently changed from Magura MT6 to Formula C1. Yes C1 entry level but love them really brakes well only down side with C1 they are heavier but works and you can buy new (striped off new bikes) complete sets for R1800

[Balsie]

Formula R1 all the way,but I would buy XT before XTR!

[Jacques Viljoen]

I have formula RX brakes with 180mm rotors, assuming it is 2012 because it came as a standard issue on my bike(2012 model).

 

Having come from tektro, juicy 3's and elixers I am really enjoying my formula's. The rear brake bites way quicker than the front and has very little space between rotor and pads. Talking 1.5mm max each side, maybe less. The front brake feel like ABS, haha! Comes to a dead stop on steep mountainous terrain after ±2secs. The space between rotor and pads in the front is much more and adjustment is easy. Also the "bite feel" margin (I don't know how else to describe it) on the front is bigger than at the back. The rear can lock up pretty quick. Front allows me more play. LOVE these brakes!

 

But now I need help, my rear brake squeals like a mouse trapped in a bucket A LOT when climbing (mostly when I'm seated). I find myself very lightly pulling the rear lever in effort to kill the squeal!

 

I suspect the pads are too close to the rotors at the back. Can this be adjusted?

 

Just need to take some time and adjust 100%. Loosen the two caliper bolts and move caliper till nothing touches. Make sure rotor is not bend.

 

If this all fails you could have too much brake fluid in the system if you have the bleed block make sure your spacing is correct (did you recently added any or serviced the brakes) If you are technical you could release some fluid via the bleed port by installing the bleed block. If you are not sure what I'm talking about I would suggest taking it to your LBS.

[nonky]

+1 Formula I have recently changed from Magura MT6 to Formula C1. Yes C1 entry level but love them really brakes well only down side with C1 they are heavier but works and you can buy new (striped off new bikes) complete sets for R1800

 

thumbs up for the C1's from me.

[TAAHIRWP]

Just need to take some time and adjust 100%. Loosen the two caliper bolts and move caliper till nothing touches. Make sure rotor is not bend.

 

If this all fails you could have too much brake fluid in the system if you have the bleed block make sure your spacing is correct (did you recently added any or serviced the brakes) If you are technical you could release some fluid via the bleed port by installing the bleed block. If you are not sure what I'm talking about I would suggest taking it to your LBS.

 

Thanks for this.

 

Rotors are straight yes, Well 98%. When aligning the caliper of my RX's at the back, is there a "nic" to it? what i mean is should the space on side be bigger than the other. Say eg. space between rotor and pad on the outer side of the bike is smaller than the rotar to pad space on the wheel side of the bike, make any sense? or should i just try and line it up centre? i had it centred, but here i am again. The reason im asking if one side should be favoured is because i am wondering if there is any "flex" in the brake area when i weight the bike.

 

As i mentioned it squeals when climbing.. seated. Standing sometimes alleviate the pain squeal.

 

also, had the brakes since new and never bled them yet (say 3months now). the bite at back is very sensitive so maybe you are right about having too much fluid.

 

I'll check out some youtube vids first before going to my LBS.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for this.

 

Rotors are straight yes, Well 98%. When aligning the caliper of my RX's at the back, is there a "nic" to it? what i mean is should the space on side be bigger than the other. Say eg. space between rotor and pad on the outer side of the bike is smaller than the rotar to pad space on the wheel side of the bike, make any sense? or should i just try and line it up centre? i had it centred, but here i am again. The reason im asking if one side should be favoured is because i am wondering if there is any "flex" in the brake area when i weight the bike.

 

As i mentioned it squeals when climbing.. seated. Standing sometimes alleviate the pain squeal.

 

also, had the brakes since new and never bled them yet (say 3months now). the bite at back is very sensitive so maybe you are right about having too much fluid.

 

I'll check out some youtube vids first before going to my LBS.

 

Sounds like the pistons aren't retracting completely into the caliper when you release the brakes. Has it been like that all the time?

 

Easiest way to reset them is to get a wide implement (NOT a screwdriver) and gently coerce the pistons back into their primary positions. If you have a pad spreader (that little red jobbie that fits int eh caliper when you take the wheel off) then use that. If not, a strong knife / thin chisel will work as well.

 

Take out the pads, and then clean the calipers PROPERLY in some spirits / degreaser to remove any gumpf from around the pistons, and rinse off with water Then put the pads back in place and the wheel as well. Check the brakes and see if they work properly, and if the pistons retract into position. If not, you probably have some air in the system or too much fluid in there, so give them a good bleed.

 

The rotor should sit smack bang in the centre of the caliper.