Skylark Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 Was wondering if anyone has done this before - servicing Morewood Shova pivot bearings? I've had some hammer fights before with bike pivot bearings , would love a heads up before I attack the job and disable my bike.I just see one bolt - can I unscrew that and easy peasy all comes apart?!!
The Drongo Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 The only thing easier is a hardtail boet! Just don't use your big guns. DR ◣◢ 1
Skylark Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 The only thing easier is a hardtail boet! Just don't use your big guns. Ja no for sure!was kinda hoping for some practical advice tho....Anyone!!
perp Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 Done it before ages ago so can't remember exactly how but can remember that it wasnt difficult. Give andre a call at rush sports and he will tell you how.
Skylark Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) Done it before ages ago so can't remember exactly how but can remember that it wasnt difficult. Give andre a call at rush sports and he will tell you how.Shot!Will call Andre , if anyone knows how to do it in the meantime please feel free to post how , cause I have the fix 'em itch Edited February 13, 2012 by SkyLark
patches Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) I've serviced the bearings on my Ndiza and Izimu, does that count? But yes, it's easy. Take out the pivot bolt and SPI caps. Push the bearings out. (I made a make-shift bearing press with some M10 threaded bar, nuts, and washers. Take the bearings to your local bearing man, and get new ones. (make sure they have the neoprene seals not the metal ones). I think I paid about R85 for both. Then to put the new bearings back in... keep them as cold as possible. Boil some water and put it in a bucket. Immerse the bearing side of your rear triangle for a few min so it's nice and warm. Push cold bearings in by hand as straight as possible and as far as they will go. To push them in the rest of the way, either use the make shift press with a large socket (to push on the outter of the bearing. If I remember correctly a 22 does the trick). Or you can put the rear triangle and front together again and use the SPI pivot caps to push them in the remainder of the way. The only hassle I had was on my Ndiza the little washer/spacer (that sits between the bearing and the front triangle) is a bit tricky to get into place and line up so that the SPI caps can go through it. Edited February 13, 2012 by patches
Skylark Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 I've serviced the bearings on my Ndiza and Izimu, does that count? But yes, it's easy. Take out the pivot bolt and SPI caps. Push the bearings out. (I made a make-shift bearing press with some M10 threaded bar, nuts, and washers. Take the bearings to your local bearing man, and get new ones. (make sure they have the neoprene seals not the metal ones). I thing I paid about R85 for both. Then to put the new bearings back in... keep them as cold as possible. Boil some water and put it in a bucket. Immerse the bearing side of your rear triangle for a few min so it's nice and warm. Push cold bearings in by hand as straight as possible and as far as they will go. To push them in the rest of the way, either use the make shift press with a large socket (to push on the outter of the bearing. If I remember correctly a 22 does the trick). Or you can put the rear triangle and front together again and use the SPI pivot caps to push them in the remainder of the way. The only hassle I has was on my Ndiza the little washer/spacer (that sits between the bearing and the front triangle) is a bit tricky to get into place and line up so that the SPI caps can go through it. Thanks Patches!So I need my calm and careful hat on when I do this. I could re-grease the bearings with them in the frame though?They feel fine but I just want to check them out and put waterproof Yamalube blue grease in there
dirtrider Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 If you gonna make the effort to strip the rear pivot assembly then rather replace them .
Skylark Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 If you gonna make the effort to strip the rear pivot assembly then rather replace them . True point but if I can easily access the bearings without removing them from the frame ,ie just get the seals off with them still in the frame a grease service would be good option.Well maintained bearings can last for yrs and yrs. If I have to completely remove the bearing's just to service them then I'd definitely replace them there and then
Hairy Posted May 30, 2013 Posted May 30, 2013 True point but if I can easily access the bearings without removing them from the frame ,ie just get the seals off with them still in the frame a grease service would be good option.Well maintained bearings can last for yrs and yrs. If I have to completely remove the bearing's just to service them then I'd definitely replace them there and thenHi Sky, did you come right and if so could you please share what you did?
droo Posted May 30, 2013 Posted May 30, 2013 Hi Sky, did you come right and if so could you please share what you did? Bring em round, I'll show you how it's done. Just give me a shout to make sure I'm there. Hairy 1
Skylark Posted May 30, 2013 Author Posted May 30, 2013 No I didn't, please enlighten me once you have done yours, or Droo if you know how. I took the shock out and checked out the play and smoothness of movement of the rear triangle on the pivot and it was still perfect , no grittiness or knotty feeling so I left it. I would like to regrease it. The pivot bolt was really tight, which is what dissuaded me from getting at the, initially - is that all you need to loosen to gain access to the bearing seals, just correct size Allen key each side and loosen? It is a right hand thread?
droo Posted May 31, 2013 Posted May 31, 2013 It's pretty straightforward, I'll post a few pics once it's been done. If you take the SPI caps off you'll be able to get at the bearing seals, but it'll be quite a challenge to get the old grease out with the bearing still in place. If you're going the repack route, it's still best to take them out, remove both seals, clean out all the old oxidised grease, repack, replace seals and press them back in. Just check for corrosion once you've cleaned them out and replace the whole bearing if you find any. Also, be sure the bearings are completely dry before repacking - a heat gun is best here, as it will dry the bearing without allowing time for surface rust to form. The thread is conventional, it's just loctited on so can require a bit of persuasion to get loose.
V12man Posted May 31, 2013 Posted May 31, 2013 And a blind hole bearing puller is useful... A whole set is better - google "JTC 1843" - alternately you can buy the enduro branded set for a lot more.... its identical.
Hairy Posted May 31, 2013 Posted May 31, 2013 The Enduro bearings from Rush sports are R53.00 each I think, just no stock right now.....nice and cheap hey!
Vinnydabutcher Posted May 31, 2013 Posted May 31, 2013 Also use a bit of Copper paste on the outer rim of the bearing when fitting new ones - this will help to press them in easier as well as removal next time.
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