M Hickley Posted March 16, 2012 Share After I build my old bike's components over to my new frame I ended up with a drop of 75mm. Is that to much? Should I consider a new fork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 16, 2012 Share After I build my old bike's components over to my new frame I ended up with a drop of 75mm. Is that to much? Should I consider a new fork? When I recently went for a bike setup, they are setting it with 50mm and below. This will also depend on your body, and the type of bike you are riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat Posted March 16, 2012 Share After I build my old bike's components over to my new frame I ended up with a drop of 75mm. Is that to much? Should I consider a new fork? It depends on how tall you are (and how long your arms and legs are) and your flexibility.If you are 5' tall, that is a lot of dropIf you are 6' 6", then not so much A lot the road pro's have at least 10cm drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
American Flyers Posted March 16, 2012 Share They always say, Use 4 fingers as width between top of handlebar and top of saddle. I suggest that you go for bike setup and get a copy of your setup and keep it as record... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted March 16, 2012 Share They always say, Use 4 fingers as width between top of handlebar and top of saddle.I suggest that you go for bike setup and get a copy of your setup and keep it as record... What happens if you have fat fingers? That seems a hell of a lot if I look at my current setup and my four fingers, which are not fat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Let's Ride Posted March 16, 2012 Share 11.2 cm's for me. Went for a bike fit so it's all how it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranga Posted March 16, 2012 Share 11.2 cm's for me. Went for a bike fit so it's all how it should be. My shattered nerves! That is alot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_freak_ Posted March 16, 2012 Share My shattered nerves! That is alot!this on a road bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted March 16, 2012 Share roughly 10mm below the top of saddle to top of bars is how I roll ... 75mm and the other huge figures sound like roadie territory to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombeej Posted March 16, 2012 Share Really it's such a personal thing - people who will tell you how many mm's it 'should be' are just trying to sound like experts (standard practise on the hub). Worry about your correct saddle height. Then the difference in height from your saddle to the drops is all about your own comfort levels and (as someone has already said) about your own flexibility and/or core muscle strength. Example: I've changed my handlebar height a few times, depending on circumstance. 8 months ago I had a couple of spacers above the stem because I was much fitter and more flexible than I am now. Now, after a 6 month layoff from injury, the spacers are all back under the stem so that I can have a more upright position - purely because it's more comfortable for me right now. As my fitness & flexibility improve, I will slowly start transferring a spacer or two below the stem, but only when I want to do it, not when some expert tells me I need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeaBee Posted March 16, 2012 Share FWIW - my drop on road bike is almost exactly the same (having done a setup). MTB is less. What was it on your old bike? How did you ensure your saddle is at the correct height when you transferred it? (Meaning - what did you measure or did you mark the seatpost or what did you do?) As stated above: seat height (and setback) is critical... Edited March 16, 2012 by SeaBee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Hickley Posted March 16, 2012 Share For those who needed more info. The geometry of the new frame differs from the new frame and its a road frame. I kept the saddle height exactly the same as well as the reach. The the difference between headtube lenght and headset tipe caused that I effectively less steerer to work with. Non the less, thanks for all the input. I guess I'll take it for a spin and check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted March 16, 2012 Share For those who needed more info. The geometry of the new frame differs from the new frame and its a road frame. I kept the saddle height exactly the same as well as the reach. The the difference between headtube lenght and headset tipe caused that I effectively less steerer to work with. Non the less, thanks for all the input. I guess I'll take it for a spin and check it out. Bravo ... best way to see if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Hickley Posted March 16, 2012 Share I wish I knew how to add at pic using the Blackberry, so I could show you my Dutch Titanium beauty;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Posted March 16, 2012 Share old school rule of thumb is 3 inches ( 76.20mm ) then go from there to get your perfect fit , up or down . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKvoodoo Posted March 16, 2012 Share I once stood on my seat and jumped over, onto my handlebars and it was quite a drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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