Schnavel Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 I recently bought a set of used XTR brakes from a fellow hubber. The brakes are still in fantastic condition and have been really well looked after... So today, I set the brakes up with no hassle and then go around the park to test them. Once going, I pull the levers gently expecting to go flying over the handle bars due to the stopping power and then i realise that there isn't really any... When the levers are fully pulled, the brakes barely work, I mean they do stop you, just not very quickly! So, does this mean that they need to be bled in order to regain that strong "bite"?
rUpton Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) If you can pull the levers to the bar, then definitely bleed. Edited May 23, 2012 by rUpton
covie Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 couple of things come to mind here. 1 the pads would have been bedded in on the sellers rotors, did you get the rotors with the brakes?2 Yes seems a bleeding is in order?3 rather get new pads, reset the pistons to neutral and go bed in the brakes from scratch. Ysterperd 1
The Drongo Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 I recently bought a set of used XTR brakes from a fellow hubber. The brakes are still in fantastic condition and have been really well looked after... So today, I set the brakes up with no hassle and then go around the park to test them. Once going, I pull the levers gently expecting to go flying over the handle bars due to the stopping power and then i realise that there isn't really any... When the levers are fully pulled, the brakes barely work, I mean they do stop you, just not very quickly! So, does this mean that they need to be bled in order to regain that strong "bite"? Start there, yes.
Schnavel Posted May 23, 2012 Author Posted May 23, 2012 couple of things come to mind here. 1 the pads would have been bedded in on the sellers rotors, did you get the rotors with the brakes?2 Yes seems a bleeding is in order?3 rather get new pads, reset the pistons to neutral and go bed in the brakes from scratch. Thanks for all the replies...The brakes are being used with new rotors, so they haven't bedded in - Can this result in almost no stopping power?!Should I just get new pads and try again or should I continue to use the brakes until the pads bed on the new rotor?
covie Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks for all the replies...The brakes are being used with new rotors, so they haven't bedded in - Can this result in almost no stopping power?!Should I just get new pads and try again or should I continue to use the brakes until the pads bed on the new rotor? I would put in new pads and let them bed in with the rotors yeah, the old pads would have heat sealed and hardened on the orignial rotors. Then bed them in properly on a clean stretch of road, and leave them to cool down and harden over night.
Schnavel Posted May 23, 2012 Author Posted May 23, 2012 Ok, I will give that a try... CWC, time for new brake pads
TheV Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 If you look at the caliper, how much space is there between the Rotor and the Pads.... I run my brakes with only about 2mm per pad/side, if that. Also check that both your pads contact/engage the rotor at the same time. Are they Race or Trail versions of the XTR, on the race versions you cant set the reach adjust, if they are trail versions check the reach is not all the way out... I dont think pads will make a difference on both front and back, it seems to me that you require a good old bleed and adjust....
lock Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 Apologies if this is deemed a hijack, how do you set the clearance on shimano brakes? I have swapped pads, bled brakes before but never tried to adjust the clearance...
TheV Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 Apologies if this is deemed a hijack, how do you set the clearance on shimano brakes? I have swapped pads, bled brakes before but never tried to adjust the clearance... You have to be more specific. Model/Year of BrakesetWhat "clearance" do you want to adjust- lever, stroke, caliper alignment? Whats the problem.
awesme Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 mini high jack me looking forward to fly over handle bars sat afternoon.(upgrading to XT + Ice Tech rotors) G You have to be more specific. Model/Year of Brakeset What "clearance" do you want to adjust- lever, stroke, caliper alignment? Whats the problem. Brett 1
Brett Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 Bleed brakes.Fit new pads.Clean rotors with Isopropyl alcohol.Fit brakes to bike and align calipers.Allow pads to bed in with with some interval training... TheV 1
TheV Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 Bleed brakes.Fit new pads.Clean rotors with Isopropyl alcohol.Fit brakes to bike and align calipers.Allow pads to bed in with with some interval training... Listen to the man!!!!
TheV Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 mini high jack me looking forward to fly over handle bars sat afternoon.(upgrading to XT + Ice Tech rotors) G can test your brakes by trying to dodge runners, walkers, dogs, ducks and all sorts of other thing on the spruit.....
smerds Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 i'm a heavy rider and had the same problem on my mtb after replacing pads with xtr pads. they had no stopping power and made a hell of a noise. the lbs did bleeding and setting of brakes but nothing helped. i have since replaced with swisstop and it was the best "upgrade" ever, never looked back. simply fitted the pads and that was it .......
lock Posted May 23, 2012 Posted May 23, 2012 You have to be more specific. Model/Year of BrakesetWhat "clearance" do you want to adjust- lever, stroke, caliper alignment? Whats the problem. Older XT(775 I think) and SLX(66something), no issues that is why I wondered how you would adjust clearance (between rotor and pads), as Covie mentioned. Was just out of curiosity..
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