Best Chain lube for MTB

[TALUS]

This weekend Babbas was a mudfest with several water crossings. Had severe chainsuck issues - funny thing was I lubricated twice the previous evening and 2h before with.....tadaa ..SQUIRT! Never again!

[Bianchi]

This weekend Babbas was a mudfest with several water crossings. Had severe chainsuck issues - funny thing was I lubricated twice the previous evening and 2h before with.....tadaa ..SQUIRT! Never again!

coincidentally I gave my chain a good helping of wet lube on Friday and played in the mudfest that was Groenkloof on Sunday. Had zero issues.

I usually use Squirt and I never have issues with it.

[MONS]

have tried most of them and Rock n Roll (blue) is by far superior in all conditions. Wont use anything else now.

[tombeej]

This weekend Babbas was a mudfest with several water crossings. Had severe chainsuck issues - funny thing was I lubricated twice the previous evening and 2h before with.....tadaa ..SQUIRT! Never again!

 

Not worn rings/chain?

[madvics]

I have been trying spanjaard chain wax that they use on motocross bikes,so far so good, doesn't collect allot of dirt.

Am yet to try it in muddy and wet conditions.

[Buchu]

I have been trying spanjaard chain wax that they use on motocross bikes,so far so good, doesn't collect allot of dirt.

Am yet to try it in muddy and wet conditions.

+1. Werk baie goed vir my. Ketting hou beslis langer vandat ek Spanjaard gebruik.

[Anine]

I have to say I started using purple extreme and I'm not impressed. it doesnt last in wet or dry

[rudi-h]

Oil basics (not bike specific)

 

There are 3 things that make a lubricating oil good

1) Selection of the base oil (mineral or synthetic)

2) Selection of the correct Viscocity

3) Additives

 

First things first, which is the best base oil? Synthetic oils are the most stable, and therefore they are the ultimate in lubricating oils. However, most of the "benefits" of synthetic oils is only applicable with special requirements such as high temperature applications, flame resistance, bio degradable requirements, low flash point etc.

 

For a bike, standard paraffinic mineral oil is as good as any other. It would not be wrong to choose synthetic oil, but on your bike there will not be a noticeable difference in performance.

 

Viscocity: Viscocity is the most important characteristic of any lubricating oil and greatly depends on temperature. Although engine oils are "multigrade" meaning that they have a relatively stable viscocity irrespective of temperature, they work optimally at 90 to 120 degreec Celcius. Therefore it is a bit thick for running at room temperature, making it a usable but not perfect selection for bikes. Low viscocity oils like Q20, WD40 etc. on the other hand will be too thin and not provide sufficient lubrication.

 

In short, multigrade automotive oils are okay, but low viscocity gearbox or hydraulic oils are better. ISO Viscocity Grades are typically given in centistokes measured at 40 degrees Celcius. Therefore any oil with viscocity ranges between ISO VG10 and ISO VG32 would be the most suitable for bikes.

 

Additives: Additives are chemicals that they add to oils to enhance performance. Gearbox oils have EP (Extreme Pressure) additives which help to minimize wear on high-pressure steel on steel contact areas. This would be the interface between your sprocket and the chain roller. Gearbox/transmission oils are thus the most suitable. There is one exception, do not buy PAG worm gearbox oils.

 

So the top choices are as follows:

 

1) Any low viscosity transmission oil. This will work just as well as any "bike specific wetlube"

2) Low viscocity hydraulic oil (does not contain EP additives, so sprocket/chain wear will be slightly faster)

3) Automotive engine oil (slightly thicker than optimal and also does not contain EP additives)

 

What to avoid:

 

1) Any watery "releasing oil" such as Q20, WD40 etc.

2) Transformer oils

 

It must also be said that lubrication in bicycles are not very critical, thus any type of wet lube will work okay.

 

Notes:

 

I myself am not a fan of Dry of Wax lubes and consider it to be a waste of time and money. Some use it and love it, I don't. My reasoning is as follows: There will allways be dirt on an open chain. I prefer a well lubricated chain with dirt on. The dirt does cause wear, but the statement that it creates a "grinding past" that eats away your chain is an overreaction. Oil with dirt in it is still in my mind a better lubricant than a poorly lubricated chain with less dirt.

 

 

Somebody on the thread mentioned that they dilute engine oil with paraffin. Please note that this does not decrease the viscosity of the oil and therefore it is pointless in terms of lubrication, although you might prefer to apply it that way.

[STRADA]

Castrol gtx, and yes I am seriaas

 

Yes, used is good

[RollandBounce]

I have been trying to get a rock n roll extreme service bottle.... but so far no luck - anyone knows who still has or where to get/order one?

[Coenie]

I have been trying to get a rock n roll extreme service bottle.... but so far no luck - anyone knows who still has or where to get/order one?

 

I am taking a guess, but Olympic Cycles might be able to help?

[MRT1]

Powasol Waxolube for wet or Pawosol Green Mamba for dry.

use both for endurance.

[RollandBounce]

I am taking a guess, but Olympic Cycles might be able to help?

 

Tried them they dont have

[GoLefty!!]

Oil basics (not bike specific)

 

There are 3 things that make a lubricating oil good

1) Selection of the base oil (mineral or synthetic)

2) Selection of the correct Viscocity

3) Additives

 

 

 

You forget compatibility of the base oil with the additives and the application. its not as simple as just mineral or synthetic.

 

First things first, which is the best base oil? Synthetic oils are the most stable, and therefore they are the ultimate in lubricating oils. However, most of the "benefits" of synthetic oils is only applicable with special requirements such as high temperature applications, flame resistance, bio degradable requirements, low flash point etc.

 

the benefits of any oil is pecific to the requirement, not just synthetic oils.Mineral oils require you to consider paraffininc of naphthenic properties as well

 

For a bike, standard paraffinic mineral oil is as good as any other. It would not be wrong to choose synthetic oil, but on your bike there will not be a noticeable difference in performance.

 

ok now we getting somewhere

 

Viscocity: Viscocity is the most important characteristic of any lubricating oil and greatly depends on temperature. Although engine oils are "multigrade" meaning that they have a relatively stable viscocity irrespective of temperature, they work optimally at 90 to 120 degreec Celcius. Therefore it is a bit thick for running at room temperature, making it a usable but not perfect selection for bikes. Low viscocity oils like Q20, WD40 etc. on the other hand will be too thin and not provide sufficient lubrication.

 

Firstly, WD 40 Q20 and the like are not lubricants. they are solvents applied with a aerosol. Diesel or kerosene would be low viscosity oils andeven then their viscosity is much higher then either of the products you mention.

Engne oil althouhg blended for optimal viscosity performance at 90 to 150degrees C, ar enot too viscous at 40 or they would increase the pumpiing load and would have poor viscosity index. Synthetics tend to have very high VI's so your statements contradict the facts.

 

In short, multigrade automotive oils are okay, but low viscocity gearbox or hydraulic oils are better. ISO Viscocity Grades are typically given in centistokes measured at 40 degrees Celcius. Therefore any oil with viscocity ranges between ISO VG10 and ISO VG32 would be the most suitable for bikes.

 

Actually multigrade PCMO's are betterfor th application of a bicycle chain. The degree of extreme pressure and Anti wear additives is higher in PCMO because the pressure of valve followers on cams shaftsis higher than what any toth in a gearbox would see. In an industrial application, like perhaps a mine where the loads are huge the gearboxes would run ISO 320 grade gearbox oils and not the usual 32, 46 or 68 ISo grades used in lathes, mills etc. PCMO's have higher VI and lower room tenmp viscosity than most gearbox oils or Hydraulic oils which. Look up the SAE J300 Viscosity vs temperature table.

 

 

Additives: Additives are chemicals that they add to oils to enhance performance. Gearbox oils have EP (Extreme Pressure) additives which help to minimize wear on high-pressure steel on steel contact areas. This would be the interface between your sprocket and the chain roller. Gearbox/transmission oils are thus the most suitable. There is one exception, do not buy PAG worm gearbox oils.

 

BS! A bicycle chain roller does not develop enough boundary layer lubrication for an EP additive to be efective. Youneed Anti Wear additives (there is a difference).

I'd be interested to hear your take on PAG oils since you lef tthat one hanging with no explanation.

 

So the top choices are as follows:

 

1) Any low viscosity transmission oil. This will work just as well as any "bike specific wetlube"

2) Low viscocity hydraulic oil (does not contain EP additives, so sprocket/chain wear will be slightly faster)

3) Automotive engine oil (slightly thicker than optimal and also does not contain EP additives)

 

1) perhaps

2) BS

3) More BS

 

What to avoid

1) Any watery "releasing oil" such as Q20, WD40 etc.

2) Transformer oils

 

It must also be said that lubrication in bicycles are not very critical, thus any type of wet lube will work okay.

 

 

I'll buy into that

 

Notes:

 

I myself am not a fan of Dry of Wax lubes and consider it to be a waste of time and money. Some use it and love it, I don't. My reasoning is as follows: There will allways be dirt on an open chain. I prefer a well lubricated chain with dirt on. The dirt does cause wear, but the statement that it creates a "grinding past" that eats away your chain is an overreaction. Oil with dirt in it is still in my mind a better lubricant than a poorly lubricated chain with less dirt.

 

really depends on the nature of the dirt but as long as theres oil attached to the moving surfaces you're fine.

 

 

Somebody on the thread mentioned that they dilute engine oil with paraffin. Please note that this does not decrease the viscosity of the oil and therefore it is pointless in terms of lubrication, although you might prefer to apply it that way.

 

Incorrect, Paraffin does decrease the viscosity of the lubricant. It also drops the flash point and reduces the ability of the lubricant to adhere to the metal surfaces. that is why when Diesel engine oils lose viscosity if contaminated with diesel.

[Anine]

tl/dr

so what IS the best thing to use on a mtb chain?

[GoLefty!!]

wet lube,

Only thing thats easily attainable to the man in the street is a bottle of 5w40 synthtic oil from the petrol station.

I've used the stuff on my chains for years and years no problem

 

Hydraulic oils like ATF are xcellent and cost R36 for 250ml at the petrol station.

 

I just can't see how people pay mega bucks for a fancy blue pink or gold liquid when its does nothing. A Lava lamp is more useful.

 

I have other useful lubricants up my sleeve as well and you may see them on a shelf somewhere in the next 6 months.

 

What does the mountain biker want from a chain lube?

Edited October 31, 2012 by GoLefty!!