Best Chain lube for MTB

[Anine]

wet lube,

Only thing thats easily attainable to the man in the street is a bottle of 5w40 synthtic oil from the petrol station.

I've used the stuff on my chains for years and years no problem

 

perfect. thats what my car uses. I'll save some during its next service

[davetapson]

What does the mountain biker want from a chain lube?

 

1. Does not come off in wet / muddy conditions

2. Does not attract dirt

3. Not sticky

4. Clean (like Squirt)

5. Lubricates.

7. Will last 100km ride.

8. Cheap. Pref free.

 

Well you asked.

[GoLefty!!]

now pick 3...

[davetapson]

1. Does not come off in wet / muddy conditions

5. Lubricates.

7. Will last 100km ride.

[rouxtjie]

1. Does not come off in wet / muddy conditions

5. Lubricates.

7. Will last 100km ride.

easy one...finishline wet ride...green cap.

[davetapson]

easy one...finishline wet ride...green cap.

 

Dug an old bottle out for Berg & Bush - chain was squeaking halfway through Day one. Reverted to squirt even tho it doesn't work either.

[GIANT FREAK]

I just use Wynns teflon spraylube ,its works great and lasts.

[rouxtjie]

Dug an old bottle out for Berg & Bush - chain was squeaking halfway through Day one. Reverted to squirt even tho it doesn't work either.

Nooit...finishline green?

 

My experience is it lasts long 100km in wet/rainy conditions and its oil...so it lubricates according to the guys in white coats and pink socks. Only kuk it is messy...proper messy. Not as bad as motorex though, but close. My all-time favourite lube is pedro's synth lube...got it at the bottom of a solomon's bargain barrel and its flippen awesome.

[Rapunzel]

Folks who think that a blackening chain is a 'bad' thing, or who think wax lubes are good for your bike, should read this doc written by Johan Bornman. Should help to fix some misconceptions...

I understand the concept of wet lube BUT, if the biggest threat to my chain is dirt, then surely for dry conditions, a lube that dust and sand is going to stick to is not good? Would this not also cause faster wear to other parts of my drivetrain?

I've found white lightning not durable, purple extreme the dirt sticks to and the best of the lot has been squirt (although the build up is difficult to remove).

[Christopher Brunsdon]

I understand the concept of wet lube BUT, if the biggest threat to my chain is dirt, then surely for dry conditions, a lube that dust and sand is going to stick to is not good? Would this not also cause faster wear to other parts of my drivetrain?

I've found white lightning not durable, purple extreme the dirt sticks to and the best of the lot has been squirt (although the build up is difficult to remove).

 

My understanding is lube is to reduce friction, not prevent dirt from getting in. This is why better motorbike chains are sealed.

 

I've used both wet and dry lube and no difference in the distance I can ride before having to change a chain.

[Hairy]

Just started using purple extreme and so far it works well.

 

I also like the way it smells

[LOOK695]

I am totally confused, as there are so many options. I will probably try Rock N Rock Extreme on my MTB and see how it works

[rouxtjie]

My understanding is lube is to reduce friction, not prevent dirt from getting in. This is why better motorbike chains are sealed.

 

I've used both wet and dry lube and no difference in the distance I can ride before having to change a chain.

My experience exactly...so might as well go for the one that I like

[Coenie]

I have strated using Rock&Roll Gold the last couple of weeks, from FinishLine Green. I LOVE IT! Will go out of my way to get it in future. FinishLine was good, but the shifting with R&R is just so much better.

[rudi-h]

You forget compatibility of the base oil with the additives and the application. its not as simple as just mineral or synthetic.

 

 

 

the benefits of any oil is pecific to the requirement, not just synthetic oils.Mineral oils require you to consider paraffininc of naphthenic properties as well

 

 

 

ok now we getting somewhere

 

 

 

Firstly, WD 40 Q20 and the like are not lubricants. they are solvents applied with a aerosol. Diesel or kerosene would be low viscosity oils andeven then their viscosity is much higher then either of the products you mention.

Engne oil althouhg blended for optimal viscosity performance at 90 to 150degrees C, ar enot too viscous at 40 or they would increase the pumpiing load and would have poor viscosity index. Synthetics tend to have very high VI's so your statements contradict the facts.

 

 

 

Actually multigrade PCMO's are betterfor th application of a bicycle chain. The degree of extreme pressure and Anti wear additives is higher in PCMO because the pressure of valve followers on cams shaftsis higher than what any toth in a gearbox would see. In an industrial application, like perhaps a mine where the loads are huge the gearboxes would run ISO 320 grade gearbox oils and not the usual 32, 46 or 68 ISo grades used in lathes, mills etc. PCMO's have higher VI and lower room tenmp viscosity than most gearbox oils or Hydraulic oils which. Look up the SAE J300 Viscosity vs temperature table.

 

 

 

 

BS! A bicycle chain roller does not develop enough boundary layer lubrication for an EP additive to be efective. Youneed Anti Wear additives (there is a difference).

I'd be interested to hear your take on PAG oils since you lef tthat one hanging with no explanation.

 

 

 

1) perhaps

2) BS

3) More BS

 

 

 

I'll buy into that

 

 

 

really depends on the nature of the dirt but as long as theres oil attached to the moving surfaces you're fine.

 

 

 

 

Incorrect, Paraffin does decrease the viscosity of the lubricant. It also drops the flash point and reduces the ability of the lubricant to adhere to the metal surfaces. that is why when Diesel engine oils lose viscosity if contaminated with diesel.

 

Wow that's quite a detailed response. You clearly know a lot about oil, I just responded to the general question that the thread started with, which is along the lines of "why do I pay R150 for a 100ml bottle of bicycle oil?" and "can I use something cheaper without compromising ride quality and the life of my drivetrain?"

 

I did not write the above to come up with the ultimate bike oil, I just attempted to apply basic knowledge of oils and its properties to try and evaluate the use of oils that you can buy at your local hardware store in a bicycle application.

 

I believe I can learn from you, so if you wont mind, please give your thoughts as to what your preferred oil choices will be. Also as a matter of interest, I thought the pressure at the sprocket / chain interface is large due to the small surface area when compared to most industrial sprocket / gear applications. It would be interesting to have your thoughts on what additives would be relevant for a bicycle application.

[Cassie]

What about using a proper oil on the rollers...wipe clean and then apply a wax base lube for "sealing" in the oil and /or keeping dirt out of rollers??

 

I tried this a couple of times and was pleasantly surprised.