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Yup, I used those on my 1st 2 bikes. Work great! Also require external cup BBs though. I have a spare one lying around if you're keen you're welcome to it. It's ISCG OLD, not ISCG 05 just in case you have a specific chainguide in mind. Also, most e*thirteen guides come with the BB mount adapter.

 

 

Thnx for the info & offer Patches,but still need to get me a 7" sled with iscg tabs & single /double chainrings :thumbup:

:clap:

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I just want to be 100% sure before spending money.

 

I have non IceTech XT centerlock rotors on the SS. Looking at buying Hope brakes.

 

This should work right?

 

You get adapters for Shimano centre lock hubs to which you can attach the 6 bolt rotors. You usually have to buy Hope brakes seperately from the rotors but your old rotors will work.

 

If you get Hope hubs then the Hope rotors bolt straight on = my preference.

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Thanks. All too often I feel that I'm just spinning when in the biggest gear, and I want to go faster.

 

How many teeth in your large chainring and smallest gear in rear cluster?

 

You must be really moving to run out of gears with a triple chainring set up.

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how do i allign my rear derailer? Because everytime i shift gears on my Scott 29er, it sounds like it wanna go onto the next gear. And it does do Ghost Shifting. I must prob take it in for its first service,"its only got 400km on the clock", but because im living like 120km away from my LBS, i can only take it in about 2weeks time.

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how do i allign my rear derailer? Because everytime i shift gears on my Scott 29er, it sounds like it wanna go onto the next gear. And it does do Ghost Shifting. I must prob take it in for its first service,"its only got 400km on the clock", but because im living like 120km away from my LBS, i can only take it in about 2weeks time.

 

Cables tend to stretch a bit after some use and the indexing goes out. It usually results in hesitation going up to a larger gear. Stand behind the bike and have a look at the rear derailleur (It helps if it is raised on a stand but not critical). Have a look where the cable exits the derailleur, it passes through a barrel adjuster. If the hesitation is going up the cassette into easier gears, which is likely when cable stretches, then turn the barrel towards the spokes (it is possible for it to be the other way if hesistation is going to harder gears). Adjust one half turn and then test the shifting all the way up and all the way down.

 

Hope this helps. ;)

 

A good tip is to store your bike with the cables in the least amount of tension by putting the chain onto smallest chainring in front and smallest gear at the back.

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Cables tend to stretch a bit after some use and the indexing goes out. It usually results in hesitation going up to a larger gear. Stand behind the bike and have a look at the rear derailleur (It helps if it is raised on a stand but not critical). Have a look where the cable exits the derailleur, it passes through a barrel adjuster. If the hesitation is going up the cassette into easier gears, which is likely when cable stretches, then turn the barrel towards the spokes (it is possible for it to be the other way if hesistation is going to harder gears). Adjust one half turn and then test the shifting all the way up and all the way down.

 

Hope this helps. ;)

 

A good tip is to store your bike with the cables in the least amount of tension by putting the chain onto smallest chainring in front and smallest gear at the back.

 

Thanks Slick,

Will do it Tomorrow morning.

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Well... the 2x9 or 2x10 setup on AM bikes (specifically) isn't really to lower weight. It can be for the following reasons:

  • Certain AM/gravity cranks don't come in a 3 blade option
  • more options as far as chain guides go
  • no real need to the big ring
  • to replace the big ring with a bash guard.

Now as far as ratios go... the popular/common 2 blade setup on AM bikes isn't quite the same as a 3 blade setup. Most AM bikes won't have bigger than a 38T up front (for the big ring). I feel that 36T is optimum (which is what I run on mine). This doesn't offer a high top end that a 42T/44T on a 3 blade XC setup will... but then again AM bikes aren't for district roads where one can spin out at max cadence.

 

As for the small blade... I run a 24T on mine, but with an 11-34T cassette I find I hardly ever need the granny gear. In fact, I might get rid of the FD, shifter, and put on a better chainguide system in place of a blade that I use once in a blue moon. Again, the 3 blade setup would most likely be a 22T, 32T and 44T.

 

So basically, a standard 3 blade setup has a small that's too small, and a big that's too big for AM purposes.

 

Thanks @patches for clearing that up

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Is it bad for your chain to leave it on the big ring? Or to have the derailleur extended (by having it in the granny gear for example). My parent always told me never to do these things for fear of stretching the chain or RD spring. Any truth to this cycling myth?

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How many teeth in your large chainring and smallest gear in rear cluster?

 

You must be really moving to run out of gears with a triple chainring set up.

 

I will need to check, but, not really fast. It seems to happen anywhere from about 40km/h or so.

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I will need to check, but, not really fast. It seems to happen anywhere from about 40km/h or so.

 

Maybe you just need to learn to increase your cadence then... WTF is cadence??? :D

 

Learning to spin more will help your climbing too. Sprinters practising in an easy gear can get their legs over 200 rpm.

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Is it bad for your chain to leave it on the big ring? Or to have the derailleur extended (by having it in the granny gear for example). My parent always told me never to do these things for fear of stretching the chain or RD spring. Any truth to this cycling myth?

 

What is the point of leaving the gear train in tension? Your chain won't stretch but your derailleur spring might. As I said above it is best to leave your cables loose in smallest gear.

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  • 2 months later...

Not worth it's own thread..

 

But who stocks spez merch (Saddles specifically) in the JHB area.. The concept store really is useless..

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Cables tend to stretch a bit after some use and the indexing goes out. It usually results in hesitation going up to a larger gear. Stand behind the bike and have a look at the rear derailleur (It helps if it is raised on a stand but not critical). Have a look where the cable exits the derailleur, it passes through a barrel adjuster. If the hesitation is going up the cassette into easier gears, which is likely when cable stretches, then turn the barrel towards the spokes (it is possible for it to be the other way if hesistation is going to harder gears). Adjust one half turn and then test the shifting all the way up and all the way down.

 

Hope this helps. wink.png

 

A good tip is to store your bike with the cables in the least amount of tension by putting the chain onto smallest chainring in front and smallest gear at the back.

 

Don't let JB see this!!!devil.gif

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Not worth it's own thread..

 

But who stocks spez merch (Saddles specifically) in the JHB area.. The concept store really is useless..

 

Summit in Midrand. Crowthorne to be exact. Gooi Dangle a private personal message for more info.

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Summit in Midrand. Crowthorne to be exact. Gooi Dangle a private personal message for more info.

 

Done that, no reply yet, maybe he hasn't seen it..

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a piece of wire (2mm thick) went through the top of my tyre and through the side wall.

 

Any ideas of how I can fix this so it will be reliable?

Or do I need to buy another tyre?

 

Conti X-Kng Protections running tubeless..

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