Dorpie Posted July 9, 2012 Share Hey Guys I have been trying to get more information on doing a Tubeless Conversion to a 29er wheel set (Jalco Big.9), the conversion I did n my 26" with a 20" BMX Tube works like a bomb and i have had no problems with it. Now the question I'm asking is there anyone out there that has done the same but to a 29er? I've tried to do a bit of research on it and I've found that you have to get yourself a 24" Tube but the problem is that they only come in Schrader Valve not Presta Valve and client is not willing to take the risk of drilling his valve hole slightly bigger to fit a Schrader. The other thing I've heard is that there have been a few guys that have tried and come out unsuccessful even using the Stans or Joes Tubeless conversion kits supplied buy cycle stores. If there is anyone out there that has successfully converted a 29er to tubeless please let me know what you did!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronTree Posted July 9, 2012 Share Hey Guys I have been trying to get more information on doing a Tubeless Conversion to a 29er wheel set (Jalco Big.9), the conversion I did n my 26" with a 20" BMX Tube works like a bomb and i have had no problems with it. Now the question I'm asking is there anyone out there that has done the same but to a 29er? I've tried to do a bit of research on it and I've found that you have to get yourself a 24" Tube but the problem is that they only come in Schrader Valve not Presta Valve and client is not willing to take the risk of drilling his valve hole slightly bigger to fit a Schrader. The other thing I've heard is that there have been a few guys that have tried and come out unsuccessful even using the Stans or Joes Tubeless conversion kits supplied buy cycle stores. If there is anyone out there that has successfully converted a 29er to tubeless please let me know what you did!!! I converted a 29er Stan's Crest to tubeless... (Maxis Crossmark UST)Used Insulation tape round twice first, then a single layer of Stans Yellow Tubeless rim Tape.Created the Valve hole with a Soldering Iron. (Saw a Bike mechanic do it with a sharp instrument and the tape split...)Inserted the Tubeless Valve.Mounted Tyre plus sealant, lost of soapy water solution on Bead, Done!!Basically is airtight, even after a week or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorpie Posted July 9, 2012 Share I converted a 29er Stan's Crest to tubeless... (Maxis Crossmark UST)Used Insulation tape round twice first, then a single layer of Stans Yellow Tubeless rim Tape.Created the Valve hole with a Soldering Iron. (Saw a Bike mechanic do it with a sharp instrument and the tape split...)Inserted the Tubeless Valve.Mounted Tyre plus sealant, lost of soapy water solution on Bead, Done!!Basically is airtight, even after a week or so...The "soapy water solution" Ive never heard of that one. Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronTree Posted July 9, 2012 Share The "soapy water solution" Ive never heard of that one. Why? To seat the tyre easily.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretched@Birth Posted July 9, 2012 Share 26" Joes AM strips on Velocity Blunt rims with Kenda Nevegals, no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlangebaan Posted July 9, 2012 Share Batseal works well. And the kit is well priced - Around R350 - and easy to do yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flippa Posted July 10, 2012 Share I used a 26" kit that I got at the 94.7 Expo, in my Loaded AMXC wheels. Worked like a charm, sealed without sealant and held air for two days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rouxtjie Posted July 10, 2012 Share To seat the tyre easily....That and to make sure the tyre sits properly in the bead...it just slips in. Also the soap water will show any leaks in the sidewalls or other places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieterg Posted July 10, 2012 Share Use Stan's No problem.26" Tubes not good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RudoJ Posted July 10, 2012 Share Batseal works well. And the kit is well priced - Around R350 - and easy to do yourself.Yep, Batseal worked for me as well. Do not have 29er but it should all work the same. Also wound insultation tape around twice, tim strip, valve and sealant. After almost a week it's still 100% sort of a mini hi-jack: with all the different sealants available on the market, they should be more or less the same. Being no tech junkie, how does batseal compare to the rest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipV Posted July 10, 2012 Share Tape the rim with decent tubeless tape, slap a valve and sealant in, and pump up with compressor.I've been doing it like this for a couple of years. Works really lekker with real UST tyres, but also a treat with tubeless compatible tyres. Currently running it with WTB tyres, have done it with Conti protection, Kenda UST and Shwalbes. I'll never use a rimstrip again. Oh, I use CaffeLattex sealant, but the stans worked just as well previously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnMano Posted July 10, 2012 Share You will only need a rim strip or tube (basically the same thing) on a double eyelit rim. Just use the yellow tubeless tape and some amonia based sealent (stans, sludge) and pump it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musashi Posted July 10, 2012 Share I've been doing all my conversions with electric insulation tape, both 26" and 29". Wrap around rim twice or three times and make a hole for the valve. It's cheap and the main cost is the valves. Tip: use a bit more sealant on a 29" set-up than 26", especially with a new tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Li Mu Bai Posted July 10, 2012 Share Seating the 29" tire is a pain i find, especially if you dont have a very big compressor. This is especially true for 'loose' fitting tires like Schwalbe Ralphs and Nics, and if you are just using tape, not heavy rubber rim stripsBest tip i can add is unpack your new tire and unfold it. let it lie flat on its side for a day or two to take full shape (creases from folding should diminish)fit the tire without sealent, pump it hard to seat it properly (small compressor works, or if you are very lucky, a floor pump). you may still need to 'massage the new tire into place whilst inflating. remove the valve core and apply sealent (Joes pointy nosed bottle works well for this). be careful so as not to unseat the edge of the tire.Bombs are a waste for setting a 29" tire as you dont get enough explosive air into the systemwhen out riding you can now buy 25g bombs specifically for 29" wheels, much better than the 16g used for 26" Edited July 10, 2012 by Li Mu Bai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl O Posted July 10, 2012 Share I have done a conversion just with a 26" tube, stans and a knife. Worked 100%. Only problem I have, is if you take the tire off, for whatever reason, you will need a new 26" tube, as you will never get the old one lined up correctly again. So good to know if you in a pickle, but would not suggest it as a first choice. As stated above. 1 layer of electrical tape, 1 layer of stans tape and a tubless valve is what I would suggst as the most economical and reliable solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted July 10, 2012 Share I've been doing all my conversions with electric insulation tape, both 26" and 29". Wrap around rim twice or three times and make a hole for the valve. It's cheap and the main cost is the valves. Tip: use a bit more sealant on a 29" set-up than 26", especially with a new tyre. I have used wheels with this 'ghetto' type tjoopless before and sure it works but over time the tape 'shrinks' and it may have a tendency to leak later albeit after a long while ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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