Seized Peddal - need help!

[Greg29]

Thanks Andro, I'll wear my welding gloves!

[tubed]

wierd I have the same problem - tried most of Sunday to get it loose to no avail - tried everything other than heating it - lots of advice on that on the web - dont know anybody who has done it successfully

 

people used to talk of 'cracking' the seal on a pedal, think thats where the the hitting it with a mallet comes in to break a seized thread

 

I dont like the 8mm allen key on the end of the spline design - seem to think the older pedal wrench on the spline was a better design

 

dammned if I know how it got so tight, I simply put it on with a multitool

 

its now with Marco at Action - lets ee what he can do - even his initial attempts failed

 

it may well be a case of those cranks and pedals are mated for life, especially if the allen key thread strips

 

would be nice to hear if Johan Bornman has any advice here

[covie]

wierd I have the same problem - tried most of Sunday to get it loose to no avail - tried everything other than heating it - lots of advice on that on the web - dont know anybody who has done it successfully

 

people used to talk of 'cracking' the seal on a pedal, think thats where the the hitting it with a mallet comes in to break a seized thread

 

I dont like the 8mm allen key on the end of the spline design - seem to think the older pedal wrench on the spline was a better design

 

dammned if I know how it got so tight, I simply put it on with a multitool

 

its now with Marco at Action - lets ee what he can do - even his initial attempts failed

 

it may well be a case of those cranks and pedals are mated for life, especially if the allen key thread strips

 

would be nice to hear if Johan Bornman has any advice here

 

Did you put grease on before you put it on, what generally happens is simply no grease, so it rusts a bit and becomes tough to remove, 1 x spanner and a couple of taps with a hammer sorts out 99% of these cases.

[Andro]

I think when chaps fit these it would be good to use some Copperslip on the threat.

The Allen Key is fine, but you should use a decent quality (brand) Tools and the correct size, no play. With a bit of heat on alu arm, you can add and ring "spannerwrench" to acquire bit more leverage.

Don't think hitting of any kind is a good idea here. That’s abuse of tools (just a thought)

The Copperslip will assist in future; corrosion won’t happen and ease/assist the remove of pedal in future.

[covie]

I think when chaps fit these it would be good to use some Copperslip on the threat.

The Allen Key is fine, but you should use a decent quality (brand) Tools and the correct size, no play. With a bit of heat on alu arm, you can add and ring "spannerwrench" to acquire bit more leverage.

Don't think hitting of any kind is a good idea here. That’s abuse of tools (just a thought)

The Copperslip will assist in future; corrosion won’t happen and ease/assist the remove of pedal in future.

 

youd be amazed you dont hit with any force, you can pin it down and jump with your full weight on the pedalwrench and it doesnt move a mm, couple of soft taps with a hammer and it releases just fine,

[tubed]

"Did you put grease on before you put it on"

 

yes I did, but clearly not enough, user error!

 

given the abuse that Freedom Challenge inflicted on it its a wonder that not both are seized

 

am interested to try the heat option if the other options dont work - there is certainly sufficient commentary to suggest that its worth a try

[V12man]

If its an Alan key - find a motor mechanic with an air impact wrench and 8mm alan key socket - it will come off I guarantee - If you are in Jhb, bring it to me - I will do it for you with my impact - guaranteed to undo 800Nm wheelbolts - there is no way that pedal is that tight.

 

You might get a LOT of freedom challenge questions though.

[kosmonooit]

I would also caution about doing too much banging whilst the crank is on the bike - could 'knock up' your bearings

[cptfly]

I am following this link with keen interest as I have the same problem and don't want to screw anything up.

[manbearpig]

Next time....copper slip on the threads....but for now stop being a p#ssy, with enough force it will turn out. If you need to, take the crank off submerse it and the pedal in boiling water, the alu crank will expand faster than the steel pedal thread, take it out quickly and then turn that sucker out, don't take NO for an answer.....I know fokkol though so whatever....

[covie]

Next time....copper slip on the threads....but for now stop being a p#ssy, with enough force it will turn out. If you need to, take the crank off submerse it and the pedal in boiling water, the alu crank will expand faster than the steel pedal thread, take it out quickly and then turn that sucker out, don't take NO for an answer.....I know fokkol though so whatever....

 

Yeah im with you, if you take your bike to any bike shop and the pedal is stuck they will rack it up and moer it off, your BB wont be harmed unless you go on like a gorrila in heat.

[DJR]

I am following this link with keen interest as I have the same problem and don't want to screw anything up.

That there is exactly the problem, it is screwed up too well.

[tubed]

You might get a LOT of freedom challenge questions though.

 

here's one quick answer to a question I thought you might ask: check out this boermaaknplan meets Shimano Japanese precision engineering on the FC: lost plastic screw-in thingy which keeps crank in lateral tension, still 1000km to go, crank kept falling off, the farmer engineers a threaded bolt through the spindle/bb, held in tension by two ex car shock rubbers, two large washers and two number 17locknuts, it worked all the way to CT, this is one of just many stories this race dishes up

 

 

 

PS: Marco got the pedal out this morn, he eventually filed the pedal spindle to accept a wrench and it turned out, he then rebuilt the pedal with an old spindle they had. 100 ronts is all he accepts - again I cant say enough about these guys as a proper bike shop

 

Thanks Action Cycles and Marco

Edited July 24, 2012 by tubed

[V12man]

Neat bit of enginering there - probably stronger than it was originally - are you goin gto leave it that way?

[Greg29]

Right, took your advice, applied a bit of heat to the crank arm with a low (very low) blow tourch, secured the crank arm on a block of wood and gave the spanner a few gentle taps wih a wooden mallet. Hey presto - no more seized pedal.

 

Thanks all for the advice!!!!!!!

[V12man]

Next tip - use waterproof grease on installation - don't be shy.

 

And on the grease subject - use krytox EP 210 on all other bearings - amazing stuff, with an amazing price.